Suspension fork to rigid?
Discussion
Could anyone advice me on this, it's a little baffling.
Been building up my single speed hardtail, gone from a 11 speed to 1 speed and rather enjoying the experience and fitness gains, I've been using this bike as a kind of backpacking'espque set up and winter only trail bike.
I'm looking for any advice on how to change from this fork to a rigid (suspension corrected) fork?
Is it feasible or should I just stop with this idea and use the bike as is?
Main benefits to me are, as this bike gets used predominantly in the winter months, I keep my (full susser geared bike for summer, no slush rides) and already have found great positives in simple maintenance now with this setup, so a rigid fork would complete this.
The bike is a Calibre Gauntlet (650b/27.5) with what I think is a 120mm front fork (tapered)
Been building up my single speed hardtail, gone from a 11 speed to 1 speed and rather enjoying the experience and fitness gains, I've been using this bike as a kind of backpacking'espque set up and winter only trail bike.
I'm looking for any advice on how to change from this fork to a rigid (suspension corrected) fork?
Is it feasible or should I just stop with this idea and use the bike as is?
Main benefits to me are, as this bike gets used predominantly in the winter months, I keep my (full susser geared bike for summer, no slush rides) and already have found great positives in simple maintenance now with this setup, so a rigid fork would complete this.
The bike is a Calibre Gauntlet (650b/27.5) with what I think is a 120mm front fork (tapered)
take-good-care-of-the-forest-dewey said:
Key dimension is axle crown height.
It doesn't need to be identical but it will steepen or slacken your head angle + seat angle.
Rigid forks replacing suspension tend to quite expensive though. Personally I wouldn't bother.
Cool, ok yeah, wasn't aware of the pricey forks to replace.It doesn't need to be identical but it will steepen or slacken your head angle + seat angle.
Rigid forks replacing suspension tend to quite expensive though. Personally I wouldn't bother.
I kinda think it's a no goer tbh, rather not put too much effort and more importantly money into this, will probably just run these until they need an overhaul/brake and then build a rigid MTB instead with the the parts off this one day.
towser44 said:
I've looked at this and a rigid fork is crazy expensive, compared to me being able to get a brand new direct replacement Suntour front susp fork for £42.
Why would a more complex suspension fork be so much cheaper, than in my eyes are more simple rigid one, is it just supply and demand kind of thing, less people running these setups? Seems quite a thing at the minute, albeit on new 29" wheel single-speed setup's to have a rigid fork, these do tend to be non-tapered I have noticed though.
I've been down that route with winter hardtails... Several times.
I found the sweet spot was the cheapest 1 x 9 or 1 x1 0 and front suspension.
You can always push a big gear in 1 by whereas I found I was always chasing the right gearing on SS.
And as you've found - rigid forks are spendy.
Best thing for reliable winter bike.
- Sq taper bb and old sqt cranks.
- Full length cable outers.
- front full size mudguard - RRP is great. Keeps the fork stanchions cleaner.
- Never pressure wash the bike.
I found the sweet spot was the cheapest 1 x 9 or 1 x1 0 and front suspension.
You can always push a big gear in 1 by whereas I found I was always chasing the right gearing on SS.
And as you've found - rigid forks are spendy.
Best thing for reliable winter bike.
- Sq taper bb and old sqt cranks.
- Full length cable outers.
- front full size mudguard - RRP is great. Keeps the fork stanchions cleaner.
- Never pressure wash the bike.
you can get eXotic rigid forks off ebay for about £100 for alu ones or £143 for carbon:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190883198411?epid=18421...
I recently built up my old 1991 Cannondale SM500 frame but with modern parts, 650b wheels, 1x10 and converted it to disc brakes with the use of these eXotic forks, as my old frame had a 1" steerer but thankfully this company made them and got a pair for £86 delivered. They are superb, nice and stiff, and very direct and precise steering. Like you my plan is to us my old Cannondale as a winter trail/flat bar gravel bike.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190883198411?epid=18421...
I recently built up my old 1991 Cannondale SM500 frame but with modern parts, 650b wheels, 1x10 and converted it to disc brakes with the use of these eXotic forks, as my old frame had a 1" steerer but thankfully this company made them and got a pair for £86 delivered. They are superb, nice and stiff, and very direct and precise steering. Like you my plan is to us my old Cannondale as a winter trail/flat bar gravel bike.
gazza285 said:
Yeah seen these, but they are NON suspension corrected rigid forks, think it may mess up my geo these?DailyHack said:
gazza285 said:
Yeah seen these, but they are NON suspension corrected rigid forks, think it may mess up my geo these?DailyHack said:
towser44 said:
I've looked at this and a rigid fork is crazy expensive, compared to me being able to get a brand new direct replacement Suntour front susp fork for £42.
Why would a more complex suspension fork be so much cheaper, than in my eyes are more simple rigid one, is it just supply and demand kind of thing, less people running these setups? Seems quite a thing at the minute, albeit on new 29" wheel single-speed setup's to have a rigid fork, these do tend to be non-tapered I have noticed though.
Pretty much every 'bike shaped object' sold new between £150 and £350ish will have some.
gazza285 said:
It will make the steering a bit sharp, I have some non corrected fork on my On-One Inbred, but I like it twitchy, I am not so keen on slack angles and rigid forks.
Couldnt you just cut the steerer down a little less to compensate for the less slack angle to match the current setup.This Calibre 'Crown to Axle' measures over 500mm, that bootzipper one from PlanetX for example is 405mm
DailyHack said:
gazza285 said:
It will make the steering a bit sharp, I have some non corrected fork on my On-One Inbred, but I like it twitchy, I am not so keen on slack angles and rigid forks.
Couldnt you just cut the steerer down a little less to compensate for the less slack angle to match the current setup.This Calibre 'Crown to Axle' measures over 500mm, that bootzipper one from PlanetX for example is 405mm
Edited by take-good-care-of-the-forest-dewey on Monday 14th June 15:10
95mm is quite a lot. Bottom bracket will be lower, whole frame will be tilted forward.
500mm is the unsagged length of the suspension fork, so I'd aim for around 475mm on a rigid fork when you account for the fork compressing under the rider's weight.
Big fan of riding rigid MTB's, much more accurate steering and no brake dive, just have to be more precise on line choice offroad and use your arms and legs as suspension.
500mm is the unsagged length of the suspension fork, so I'd aim for around 475mm on a rigid fork when you account for the fork compressing under the rider's weight.
Big fan of riding rigid MTB's, much more accurate steering and no brake dive, just have to be more precise on line choice offroad and use your arms and legs as suspension.
So, just to update this.
I have sold this bike now, just wasn't what I had in mind and not the best template to rigid and singlespeed I wanted.
Been using my Merida 1-20 FS for the last few months since and my goodness the dirt/muck and grit gets everywhere and I now have very worn rear bearings in the frame.... so it's made me think again about getting a simpler winter season MTB SS and keeping this for dryer longer summer days.
Just purchased a Sanderson Soloist (26") hardtail (cheap) single speed frame, got loads of 26 parts in the shed to build it up with from my retired Epic 26" frame (wheel set/brakes/discs/cranks etc)
Ordered a rigid fork also to stick on it, see how we go.
I have sold this bike now, just wasn't what I had in mind and not the best template to rigid and singlespeed I wanted.
Been using my Merida 1-20 FS for the last few months since and my goodness the dirt/muck and grit gets everywhere and I now have very worn rear bearings in the frame.... so it's made me think again about getting a simpler winter season MTB SS and keeping this for dryer longer summer days.
Just purchased a Sanderson Soloist (26") hardtail (cheap) single speed frame, got loads of 26 parts in the shed to build it up with from my retired Epic 26" frame (wheel set/brakes/discs/cranks etc)
Ordered a rigid fork also to stick on it, see how we go.
Edited by 757 on Tuesday 9th November 13:48
I converted my 26” Giant XTC years ago with a set of Nukeproof Carbon MTB forks, and gave the bike many years of commuting action. Still use the bike occasionally on and off road now.
Can’t remember how much they were, not expensive. Forks were a revelation compared to the 80mm Manitou set up previously and don’t appear to have either thrown me off the bike because geo, or collapsed into shrapnel. A-C is about 430mm.
Steering was a bit sharper but everything about the steering was sharper anyway as the bike originally had narrow flat’ish bars with a head angle of about 71deg.
Can’t remember how much they were, not expensive. Forks were a revelation compared to the 80mm Manitou set up previously and don’t appear to have either thrown me off the bike because geo, or collapsed into shrapnel. A-C is about 430mm.
Steering was a bit sharper but everything about the steering was sharper anyway as the bike originally had narrow flat’ish bars with a head angle of about 71deg.
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