105 (5700) vs New Tiagra vs 11sp 105
Discussion
As the prices of new bikes become ever more laughable, ive been thinking bout upgrades.
My F75 is 10 speed 105 (5700). I hav another bike (8 speed) that ive been thinking about converting to 10 speed simply for the ease of swapping wheels and buying components etc ( i know things like rear deraillieurs arent interchangable)
How does the latest Tiagra compare? Anyone have any real world experience of both?
Out of interest, how does the latest 105 compare to 5700? Clearly id still be left with not being able to swap wheels over quickly and buy 2 sets of stuff but its still kind of tempting althoguh having both 10 speed makes the most sense.
Ta.
My F75 is 10 speed 105 (5700). I hav another bike (8 speed) that ive been thinking about converting to 10 speed simply for the ease of swapping wheels and buying components etc ( i know things like rear deraillieurs arent interchangable)
How does the latest Tiagra compare? Anyone have any real world experience of both?
Out of interest, how does the latest 105 compare to 5700? Clearly id still be left with not being able to swap wheels over quickly and buy 2 sets of stuff but its still kind of tempting althoguh having both 10 speed makes the most sense.
Ta.
If anything, components have gone daft even more than whole bikes, so be prepared to shop around!
I funded most of Christmas selling all the 5700 105 I had knocking around in the garage, and a few other bits and bobs.
I think a big delivery from Shimano was held up around the Suez a few weeks ago, you may have heard about it...?
I funded most of Christmas selling all the 5700 105 I had knocking around in the garage, and a few other bits and bobs.
I think a big delivery from Shimano was held up around the Suez a few weeks ago, you may have heard about it...?
Yes its all a bit silly at the moment and the problem on the Suez hasn't helped. I'm in no rush to do it though but all the same I dont think prices will ever come down again. Once manufacturers and retailers see that people still buy stuff they wont be reversing prices anytime soon.
I got a free 105 11 speed groupset from a friend a couple of years ago. I think it is good, but some stuff is odd. For example Shimano have some questionably large lateral clearances between the back of the brake levers to the shifter rod. That means you have to move the lever laterally a long way before you even start to engage the gearshift mechanism. Maybe they did this to make the Ultegra and Dura Ace parts feel better? Anyway, I glued in a little piece of stiff plastic to reduce this play... They shift super nice now.
I also didn‘t like the rim brake calipers, the brake actuation was a bit more elastic than my old Ultegra 10 speed setup. I swapped the 105 calipers for Dura Ace parts, which were much better.
I also didn‘t like the rim brake calipers, the brake actuation was a bit more elastic than my old Ultegra 10 speed setup. I swapped the 105 calipers for Dura Ace parts, which were much better.
I bought a old school bike last year as I wanted to ride ASAP and everything was sold out. How old school? 2008 bike, 3x9 gears, all Shimano 105.
Although it was almost never ridden from new, I changed the gears and chain anyway, as I didn't want to have an issue whilst riding. Got a new Tiagra 9 gear in the back, as that was all that was available. The bikeshop told me that through the generations the lower classes steadily move up and up so the Tiagra was actually better quality than the old 105. It works perfectly well so can only recommend it.
Although it was almost never ridden from new, I changed the gears and chain anyway, as I didn't want to have an issue whilst riding. Got a new Tiagra 9 gear in the back, as that was all that was available. The bikeshop told me that through the generations the lower classes steadily move up and up so the Tiagra was actually better quality than the old 105. It works perfectly well so can only recommend it.
I think the "shimano gets better each generation" thing is partly true. Maybe in terms of geometry and design, where systems launched in the top tier groups trickle down to make the lower groupsets functionally better than the old ones (when new and un-worn). But a newer-but-cheaper group will still use more cheap materials (plastic vs. light alloys), bushings instead of bearings, lower spec coatings on metal parts etc. so may be less durable in the long term or it's functionality will degrade quicker.
Taking Shimano as a base, (other manufacturers are available) I would categorise them for me as such:
Dura-Ace - Someone's paying for me to race it.
Ultegra - Sunday / Best bike. (Don't try Di2 unless you can afford it, it's great.)
105 - The work-horse of the range, all you ever "need".
Tiagra - Durable and perfect for the winter bike which will need semi-regular replacement.
Sora / Claris - Not for me.
Before lockdown I was doing c. 3,000 miles a year commuting, 1,000 winter training miles, and probably about 1,000 fun / summer miles. I'm a spinner, not a grinder, and generally sit in the middle for mechanical sympathy. I maintain my bikes, but not to the "every bike is always pristine" level.
I'm also fortunate that cycling is my main hobby, and I can afford to operate at this sort of level. Other people will do different mileages, in different proportions, and have different levels of wealth, so will be different.
For someone dipping a toe into road biking, I appreciate that Sora might be the right level to go in for a new bike, or Tiagra if buying second hand. I'd probably recommend this for someone who does a bit of mountain biking and fancies a bit of Lycra goodness.
For someone properly new to cycling, I'd probably slide this again, and say Claris would be OK for a new bike or Sora if buying second hand.
Groupset REALLY isn't the whole story though. Bike manufacturers know it's a key thing that people look at, so will build to it. In the past, for instance, you could get a carbon frame with Ultegra gears for under £1k. (Planet X.) These would often have cheap brake callipers, crap wheels and heavy seat post and bars, for example. At that level I would much rather have a good quality Alu frame with full 105, and decent wheels, which is exactly what I did a few years ago. It was a great bike!
Anyway, I've probably gone off topic now...
Dura-Ace - Someone's paying for me to race it.
Ultegra - Sunday / Best bike. (Don't try Di2 unless you can afford it, it's great.)
105 - The work-horse of the range, all you ever "need".
Tiagra - Durable and perfect for the winter bike which will need semi-regular replacement.
Sora / Claris - Not for me.
Before lockdown I was doing c. 3,000 miles a year commuting, 1,000 winter training miles, and probably about 1,000 fun / summer miles. I'm a spinner, not a grinder, and generally sit in the middle for mechanical sympathy. I maintain my bikes, but not to the "every bike is always pristine" level.
I'm also fortunate that cycling is my main hobby, and I can afford to operate at this sort of level. Other people will do different mileages, in different proportions, and have different levels of wealth, so will be different.
For someone dipping a toe into road biking, I appreciate that Sora might be the right level to go in for a new bike, or Tiagra if buying second hand. I'd probably recommend this for someone who does a bit of mountain biking and fancies a bit of Lycra goodness.
For someone properly new to cycling, I'd probably slide this again, and say Claris would be OK for a new bike or Sora if buying second hand.
Groupset REALLY isn't the whole story though. Bike manufacturers know it's a key thing that people look at, so will build to it. In the past, for instance, you could get a carbon frame with Ultegra gears for under £1k. (Planet X.) These would often have cheap brake callipers, crap wheels and heavy seat post and bars, for example. At that level I would much rather have a good quality Alu frame with full 105, and decent wheels, which is exactly what I did a few years ago. It was a great bike!
Anyway, I've probably gone off topic now...
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