E-MTB heavy work when out of juice.
Discussion
This was self inflicted pain, took the bike out yesterday and it had two dots of battery power left on the handlebar controller. I knew this was a bit low but I wanted to run it out anyhow.
Just before the hilly climb section one bar went out which meant I had misjudged what I actually thought battery wise I had, just about got to the top of the hill section and the white dot turned red. Note to self don't do this again.
Fortunately it was all downhill on this final section but even then the small sections where I normally do some peddling proved to be really hard work.
But ridding back to my van after the section really did get some muscle/fat burn going.
Anyone else done this? it has given me a bit more idea of range that I didn't have before yesterday and served me a lesson I won't repeat again.
Just before the hilly climb section one bar went out which meant I had misjudged what I actually thought battery wise I had, just about got to the top of the hill section and the white dot turned red. Note to self don't do this again.
Fortunately it was all downhill on this final section but even then the small sections where I normally do some peddling proved to be really hard work.
But ridding back to my van after the section really did get some muscle/fat burn going.
Anyone else done this? it has given me a bit more idea of range that I didn't have before yesterday and served me a lesson I won't repeat again.
I've done it a few times. A 23kg bike with 2.8" wide tyres is pretty hard going but thankfully I've only ever run out on the flat.
One thing I've found helpful with remaining range is having my bike computer show the battery charge as a percentage. Two lights on the bike could be 20% or 29% which obviously is quite a difference in remaining distance available.
One thing I've found helpful with remaining range is having my bike computer show the battery charge as a percentage. Two lights on the bike could be 20% or 29% which obviously is quite a difference in remaining distance available.
Edited by benny.c on Friday 2nd April 12:11
Once you get down to a couple of bars definitely avoid turbo/boost as it will really suck the battery down fast due to the way the chemistry works. Similarly on the last bar keep it to the lowest/eco assistance or better yet go to no assistance when on the flat/downhill and save the last dregs to help get you up the hills. Locking out the rear suspension helps a bit too.
I find the weight* is less of an issue than the drag from the big nobbly tyres, I sometimes do rides that I know are too long to ride with assist on all of the time to practice battery management and getting used to riding without where possible.
* I could do with losing as much as the bike weighs anyway so I tend not to blame the bike...
I find the weight* is less of an issue than the drag from the big nobbly tyres, I sometimes do rides that I know are too long to ride with assist on all of the time to practice battery management and getting used to riding without where possible.
* I could do with losing as much as the bike weighs anyway so I tend not to blame the bike...
I've normally charged it at two lights, so in a way I knew that I was in uncharted territory. But regardless the weight and drag of these bikes is perhaps something new owners like me may not have fully appreciated until it happens.
Like I say I won't be doing it again. The manual does say run it right down occasionally but next time a bit of better planning will happen.
Like I say I won't be doing it again. The manual does say run it right down occasionally but next time a bit of better planning will happen.
Edited by BIRMA on Friday 2nd April 14:41
Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff