Discussion
Gears seemed a but noisy cycling to work this morning and I discovered the side plate has snapped on one link!
Do chains tend to be riveted or use a clip link? I've changed several motorbike chains in the past and always riveted them as I don't entirely trust the clip links, but I've never changed a bicycle chain before.
On a motorbike I'd always change the sprockets with the chain, but then again I've only ever changed chains as they've stretched not because one has snapped!, Is it normal practice to replace the sprockets on a push bike too?
I'm actually going to drop it in to the local bike shop rather than do it myself as my tools are all in storage at the moment pending a house move, but am interested to know for next time.
Do chains tend to be riveted or use a clip link? I've changed several motorbike chains in the past and always riveted them as I don't entirely trust the clip links, but I've never changed a bicycle chain before.
On a motorbike I'd always change the sprockets with the chain, but then again I've only ever changed chains as they've stretched not because one has snapped!, Is it normal practice to replace the sprockets on a push bike too?
I'm actually going to drop it in to the local bike shop rather than do it myself as my tools are all in storage at the moment pending a house move, but am interested to know for next time.
You could just remove the broken link (you'd need a chain tool to do so) and replace it with a quick-link (or power link depending on the brand).
You're probably better just to replace the whole chain though. If it's skipping or it's still noisy after this then the cassette and/or chainrings might also need replaced. You can inspect them for worn teeth which look sharper and more "pointy".
Chain wear tools aren't expensive and help you judge when to replace the chain to prolong the life of the other more expensive bits like cassette and chainrings. Fortunately on push bikes you don't have to replace the whole lot every time!
You're probably better just to replace the whole chain though. If it's skipping or it's still noisy after this then the cassette and/or chainrings might also need replaced. You can inspect them for worn teeth which look sharper and more "pointy".
Chain wear tools aren't expensive and help you judge when to replace the chain to prolong the life of the other more expensive bits like cassette and chainrings. Fortunately on push bikes you don't have to replace the whole lot every time!
Edited by blueovercream on Wednesday 31st March 10:32
I suspect the reason it's snapped is lack of maintenance while using the bike to commute all winter, so while I hadn't thought about the option of just replacing a link, I think I'm better off replacing the chain.
My next bike will probably be belt drive to save on the maintenance that I don't do.
My next bike will probably be belt drive to save on the maintenance that I don't do.
If the side plate has gone, and it wasn’t a quick link, it suggests that the chain was pretty worn. Chain ‘stretch’ is caused by wear to the rollers and bushings in the links, and needs an eye keeping on it. You can buy cheap chain stretch checkers which indicate when the chain is 0.075mm stretched and 0.1mm stretched ( normally). If you’ve got an indicated 0.075mm stretch it’s time to think about getting a new chain, if it’s 0.1mm stretched, you should replace the chain, or it will start to knacker the sprockets in the cassette at this point. If you run a chain over 0.1mm stretch for any significant mileage, you will need to replace the cassette and chain, to prevent any issues with slipping. If you keep the chains below 0.1mm stretch, you can get more than one cassette per chain, which becomes increasingly important as the cost of components increase.
Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff