Hi spec second hand bikes. Maintenance costs.

[rufusgti]

I'm looking for a second hand full sus. Will be my first full sus and I fancy a new bike for trail riding.
I've narrowed down to a Whyte. Something like is T130 or an s150 and have been scouring the sites looking.

I found what seems to be a really nice, very high spec, 2018 Whyte t130 works carbon. The bike is well priced and the spec is incredible. This bike was £5400 new I believe.

On researching the bike and spec I thought I'd check out the cost of refreshing parts. I was utterly flabbergasted to see the cost of a complete SRAM xx1 crankset was almost £1500 and just a rear cassette is over £350!!

My question is. Can a bike like this be run on any kind of budget ?
Could parts be replaced for cheaper options more inline with the cost of a second hand bike. Or are a lot of those parts specific to that frame. The bike also has carbon wheels. Having never had carbon wheels, are they fit for purpose over a long period or are parts like that generally replaced often.

Just trying to work out wether a lesser spec t130 with an ally frame and wheels would make a better second hand purchase.

[gazza285]

How often will you be changing cranks?

The cassette is a bit of a sting, but are there cheaper alternatives?

Carbon rims shouldn't be a problem, the ones on my CX bike have had some right hammer over the years.

[CatMatt7]

You’re never going to change the crankset, maybe chainrings, but not cranks.

The cost of a cassette is a good incentive to clean the drivetrain properly after each ride. On the road a cassette can last a long time, I don’t know about mtb though

[iansp]

This is a link to SRAM’s MTB Component Compatibility Map which tells you what works with what.
www.sram.com/globalassets/document-hierarchy/compa...
As an example an XG-1275 Cassette is half the price of an XG-1299 Cassette.

Edited by iansp on Saturday 20th March 21:14

[Bathroom_Security]

Much prefer to run Sram GX or similar for this reason.

Dérailleurs are consumable parts but the rest should last years if cleaned and lubricated properly.

[lufbramatt]

Unless I'm missing something the xx1 crankset is more like £350 not £1500?

[gazza285]

Bathroom_Security said:

Much prefer to run Sram GX or similar for this reason.

Dérailleurs are consumable parts but the rest should last years if cleaned and lubricated properly.

I prefer to not use Sram at all.

In forty years of competitive cycling I have managed to break many a derailleur, mainly while cyclocross racing, but only managed to wear out two. Does that count as consumable?

[Bathroom_Security]

gazza285 said:

I prefer to not use Sram at all.

In forty years of competitive cycling I have managed to break many a derailleur, mainly while cyclocross racing, but only managed to wear out two. Does that count as consumable?

Yes, given you broke many a derailleur

Run shimano then. Point I tried to make was cheaper stuff isn't so bad to replace

[gp1699]

You can replace it a GX cassette when it’s time. My XO1 stuff has taken a hammering so wouldn’t worry about the mech.

[rufusgti]

lufbramatt said:

Unless I'm missing something the xx1 crankset is more like £350 not £1500?

The bike in question had this drivetrain.
https://www.biketart.com/components-c4/drivetrain-...

The bike sold unfortunately while I was thinking things through, I think ill carry on looking for a ally frame t130.

Someone mentioned cranks not wearing out. On my hardtails, running trails and doing jumps I will go through a crank in 18 months to 2 years of occasional riding.

[take-good-care-of-the-forest-dewey]

Word of caution on the ally t130. It has THE worst gear cable routing on any bike. It's utterly infuriating to fit. Well worth getting your bike shop to do that job.

Apart from that - great bike.

[Simes205]

take-good-care-of-the-forest-dewey said:

Word of caution on the ally t130. It has THE worst gear cable routing on any bike. It's utterly infuriating to fit. Well worth getting your bike shop to do that job.

Apart from that - great bike.

I’ve got a 2019 t130s and replaced the rear cable recently. It’s not that bad, took me about 30minutes. The bit I wasn’t looking forward to was the swing arm but it was actually easier than I thought.

GX is good, I’ve had this bike 27 months, ridden through winter and only replaced the chain a few times.

I’ve got GX on my hard tail too, it’s good!!

Edited by Simes205 on Sunday 21st March 18:34

Edited by Simes205 on Sunday 21st March 18:37

[take-good-care-of-the-forest-dewey]

Simes205 said:

I’ve got a 2019 t130s and replaced the rear cable recently. It’s not that bad, took me about 30minutes. The bit I wasn’t looking forward to was the swing arm but it was actually easier than I thought.

GX is good, I’ve had this bike 27 months, ridden through winter and only replaced the chain a few times.

I’ve got GX on my hard tail too, it’s good!!

Edited by Simes205 on Sunday 21st March 18:34

Edited by Simes205 on Sunday 21st March 18:37

Any tips? Rear swing arm was an utter PITA.

[Simes205]

Have your bike on a work stand.
Start from the top remove the grommet , no need to remove BB.
Pull out from the BB.
Remove rear wheel.
Spin the bike 90degs.
Push the cable in The swing arm end. Look carefully at the dropouts and using a pick divert the cable out through the exit.

I’ve got a jagwire internal routing tool but it was no use.

Edited by Simes205 on Monday 22 March 16:54

[take-good-care-of-the-forest-dewey]

I've got the park version - that was no use. It really needs a threaded barb that allows you to use the old outer to pull the new outer through.

Thanks for the tips. I just could not get the outer out of the swing arm. Took ages.

[Superlightdaa]

OP, Not sure where you are in the UK but have a look at Felltrax (on FB and Insta) in Carlisle. Brad usually has good stock of some second hand top end bikes, he knows a lot of Pro racers from that area and gets their bikes when they upgrade to latest factory freebies. Highly recommended as they are serviced before sale, got a Hope HB 160 from him in late Dec.