PC & Screen for Zwift
Discussion
OK; after all the excellent stuff about using Zwift, I'm thinking of trying it.
So I have some questions about the user interface.
1. Does it work OK on Android, so would a 10" Android tablet work?
2. If I have to go Windows I will get a cheapy refurb desktop - but would a touch screen be worthwhile? If I do go this route it will be wired LAN.
In use, how much do you need to use the keyboard or mouse?
So I have some questions about the user interface.
1. Does it work OK on Android, so would a 10" Android tablet work?
2. If I have to go Windows I will get a cheapy refurb desktop - but would a touch screen be worthwhile? If I do go this route it will be wired LAN.
In use, how much do you need to use the keyboard or mouse?
I run it on a really powerful Windows gaming laptop, but it's massive overkill. In truth, it would probably run ok on a potato. An Android tablet should be fine, but I'd still connect it to a TV for a bigger picture.
In use, using the keyboard or touch pad is very rare. I tend to set my session away and not touch it again until I'm getting off and finishing the session. There is also the companion app you can download to your phone which has a lot of functions in it and is a lot easier to use while on the bike.
In use, using the keyboard or touch pad is very rare. I tend to set my session away and not touch it again until I'm getting off and finishing the session. There is also the companion app you can download to your phone which has a lot of functions in it and is a lot easier to use while on the bike.
I can’t comment on Android but, if you go the PC route, I can confirm you don’t need anything special. Use my work laptop (ie no fancy graphics card) and wireless connection and it’s fine. Touch screen not necessary. You can use zwift companion (I assume Android supports this?) or sometimes I just leave the mouse hovering over the ‘booster’ button (I forget the proper term) so I can click whenever one comes up mid event.
Next bit for me is to get a 32” TV and try mirroring. I’m told that it’s at this point where my crappy laptop may be borderline. If so, I will just get Apple TV, although I appreciate that’s not an option for you.
Next bit for me is to get a 32” TV and try mirroring. I’m told that it’s at this point where my crappy laptop may be borderline. If so, I will just get Apple TV, although I appreciate that’s not an option for you.
Be very careful with the 'cheap' Android devices and Zwift. There is a lot of confusion about which ones will and won't work with Zwift. Some have the same name but different builds.
I'm a massive Android fan and anti-Apple, but after doing my research I landed up buying a basic ipad and it works very very well. Apple TV is even cheaper, but not so easy to use in-app.
I've previously run it in my Galaxy Note8 phone, but with my old eyes it's a bit difficult to see what's going on sometimes. Tried mirroring that to a 32inch TV, but then the edges of the screen were cut off. And I want the phone to run the companion app.
Short story is: I tried to do it in a low cost way, but ended up stumping for an ipad and don't regret it.
I'm a massive Android fan and anti-Apple, but after doing my research I landed up buying a basic ipad and it works very very well. Apple TV is even cheaper, but not so easy to use in-app.
I've previously run it in my Galaxy Note8 phone, but with my old eyes it's a bit difficult to see what's going on sometimes. Tried mirroring that to a 32inch TV, but then the edges of the screen were cut off. And I want the phone to run the companion app.
Short story is: I tried to do it in a low cost way, but ended up stumping for an ipad and don't regret it.
gl20 said:
Next bit for me is to get a 32” TV and try mirroring. I’m told that it’s at this point where my crappy laptop may be borderline. If so, I will just get Apple TV, although I appreciate that’s not an option for you.
Instead of mirroring, use an HMDI cable to connect your laptop to the TV, then use your Windows button and the P key to change your display option to "second screen only". Your laptop screen will switch off and you'll be displaying on the TV.If you duplicate or mirror the image, then it does effectively ask your laptop to render the image twice and that will cause you to drop frames and get bad performance, particularly if it's not a powerful device.
Regarding Android, granted this is a slightly older thread but I found it useful:
https://forums.zwift.com/t/android-supported-devic...
Explains why I could see companion but not main Zwift in the PlayStore, my particular Galaxy Tab A is not supported but they seem to say if you can see it in the PlayStore on your device it should work on that device.
https://forums.zwift.com/t/android-supported-devic...
Explains why I could see companion but not main Zwift in the PlayStore, my particular Galaxy Tab A is not supported but they seem to say if you can see it in the PlayStore on your device it should work on that device.
Mastodon2 said:
Instead of mirroring, use an HMDI cable to connect your laptop to the TV, then use your Windows button and the P key to change your display option to "second screen only". Your laptop screen will switch off and you'll be displaying on the TV.
If you duplicate or mirror the image, then it does effectively ask your laptop to render the image twice and that will cause you to drop frames and get bad performance, particularly if it's not a powerful device.
Thanks. Will give that a go first as perhaps no need for ATV for me. Also has the advantage re retaining more USB ports (I understand if I go the Apple route I may be limited on connecting cadence, heart rate etc unless I go via zwift companion which sounds a faff v what I have today. But just keen to have a decent sized screen so I can read the numbers down the sides etc)If you duplicate or mirror the image, then it does effectively ask your laptop to render the image twice and that will cause you to drop frames and get bad performance, particularly if it's not a powerful device.
gl20 said:
I understand if I go the Apple route I may be limited on connecting cadence, heart rate etc unless I go via zwift companion which sounds a faff v what I have today.
This is what you needhttps://www.amazon.co.uk/North-Pole-Engineering-CA...
[quote=gl20]
'(I understand if I go the Apple route I may be limited on connecting cadence, heart rate etc unless I go via zwift companion which sounds a faff v what I have today. '
this depends on what sensor & device you use. Any bluetooth sensor will connect to a ipad (certainly works for me), it's only Ant+ that you may need an additional adapter for. Although Ant+ only transmission is quite rare nowadays.
I think Apple TV has 2 bluetooth channels so should cope with a smartrainer and HR monitor.
'(I understand if I go the Apple route I may be limited on connecting cadence, heart rate etc unless I go via zwift companion which sounds a faff v what I have today. '
this depends on what sensor & device you use. Any bluetooth sensor will connect to a ipad (certainly works for me), it's only Ant+ that you may need an additional adapter for. Although Ant+ only transmission is quite rare nowadays.
I think Apple TV has 2 bluetooth channels so should cope with a smartrainer and HR monitor.
I use a desktop. I have resized the mouse pointer to suit the Zwift cartoon graphics as previously by the time I located the pointer, the ride on button I wanted to click had vanished again.
This PC is in the garage, and I don't really use it for anything much else except youtube videos of how to fix stuff.
No actual need to use the keyboard etc but it is handy for changing camera etc... I find I'm using the companion app less and less except for when I want to give out random ride ons by hitting my circle on the sat nav. Phone sits on the white lump of fascia board!
Only problem with this set up now is I tend to drip sweat on the phone/keyboard if working hard while standing on the pedals...
This PC is in the garage, and I don't really use it for anything much else except youtube videos of how to fix stuff.
No actual need to use the keyboard etc but it is handy for changing camera etc... I find I'm using the companion app less and less except for when I want to give out random ride ons by hitting my circle on the sat nav. Phone sits on the white lump of fascia board!
Only problem with this set up now is I tend to drip sweat on the phone/keyboard if working hard while standing on the pedals...
stuarthat said:
You could always buy a projector connect to a device ,then zwift companion
Ha ha ha, it just so happens that one of the bits of 'stuff' in my garage is a great quality roller screen on stand! Could make it all life size! I don't think I'll be getting a projector though.
If you want to dip into frame-rates and graphics quality on Zwift this page is good:
https://zwiftinsider.com/zwift-pc-guide/
https://zwiftinsider.com/zwift-pc-guide/
Zwift Insider said:
BONUS ADDENDUM: DOING ALL THIS ON A TIGHTER BUDGET
Buy an ex-office SFF desktop PC with a CPU like a i5-3470 or similar. There are tons available on the likes of eBay. Install a GTX 1650 low profile which fits, runs from the PCIe slot alone and can normally be accommodated by the power supply in this class of computer. Ensure you have good ventilation and be sure to change the Nvidia power management mode to ‘Prefer maximum performance’. Upgrade the DDR3 RAM to 8GB, it’s dirt cheap on eBay or CeX in the UK. Whack in an SSD and install Windows from a USB stick. You should be able to achieve 60fps in Ultra detail at 1080p in normal circumstances for under £250. All the same principles and caveats above still apply though.
That's the route I'm going down. I've got a refurb Dell SFF from Amazon and had a spare SSD for it. Waiting to see a good deal on both a graphics card and a smart trainer (though stock on a Kickr or Saris H3 is an issue, never mind a deal!).Buy an ex-office SFF desktop PC with a CPU like a i5-3470 or similar. There are tons available on the likes of eBay. Install a GTX 1650 low profile which fits, runs from the PCIe slot alone and can normally be accommodated by the power supply in this class of computer. Ensure you have good ventilation and be sure to change the Nvidia power management mode to ‘Prefer maximum performance’. Upgrade the DDR3 RAM to 8GB, it’s dirt cheap on eBay or CeX in the UK. Whack in an SSD and install Windows from a USB stick. You should be able to achieve 60fps in Ultra detail at 1080p in normal circumstances for under £250. All the same principles and caveats above still apply though.
Harpoon said:
If you want to dip into frame-rates and graphics quality on Zwift this page is good:
https://zwiftinsider.com/zwift-pc-guide/
Whilst I think I got their last Kickr, SigmaSports have stock of Elite and Tacx direct drive, I think they sell Saris also but can’t remember if they had H3 or not.https://zwiftinsider.com/zwift-pc-guide/
Zwift Insider said:
BONUS ADDENDUM: DOING ALL THIS ON A TIGHTER BUDGET
Buy an ex-office SFF desktop PC with a CPU like a i5-3470 or similar. There are tons available on the likes of eBay. Install a GTX 1650 low profile which fits, runs from the PCIe slot alone and can normally be accommodated by the power supply in this class of computer. Ensure you have good ventilation and be sure to change the Nvidia power management mode to ‘Prefer maximum performance’. Upgrade the DDR3 RAM to 8GB, it’s dirt cheap on eBay or CeX in the UK. Whack in an SSD and install Windows from a USB stick. You should be able to achieve 60fps in Ultra detail at 1080p in normal circumstances for under £250. All the same principles and caveats above still apply though.
That's the route I'm going down. I've got a refurb Dell SFF from Amazon and had a spare SSD for it. Waiting to see a good deal on both a graphics card and a smart trainer (though stock on a Kickr or Saris H3 is an issue, never mind a deal!).Buy an ex-office SFF desktop PC with a CPU like a i5-3470 or similar. There are tons available on the likes of eBay. Install a GTX 1650 low profile which fits, runs from the PCIe slot alone and can normally be accommodated by the power supply in this class of computer. Ensure you have good ventilation and be sure to change the Nvidia power management mode to ‘Prefer maximum performance’. Upgrade the DDR3 RAM to 8GB, it’s dirt cheap on eBay or CeX in the UK. Whack in an SSD and install Windows from a USB stick. You should be able to achieve 60fps in Ultra detail at 1080p in normal circumstances for under £250. All the same principles and caveats above still apply though.
On a tangent, do you happen to know if that spec of PC would double up well for use doing iRacing type stuff?
Edited by emicen on Wednesday 4th November 13:44
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