MTB tubeless conversion. Stan's or other?

[Louis Balfour]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stans-Tubeless-width-Valv...

Advice appreciated.

The bike has car type valves currently. The tyres are a tight fit, so I hope they will be OK.

[Bill]

I prefer muc-off's fluid. The tyres hold air better ime.

[Louis Balfour]

Bill said:

I prefer muc-off's fluid. The tyres hold air better ime.

Thank you. Also a bit cheaper.

[Louis Balfour]

One final question; there seems to be a lot of different sizes available. Does anyone know which one I need for these please:

Ground Control Sport, 27.5 x 2.3"
Schrader, 40mm valve

[leyorkie]

The valves on that kit won’t fit your wheels as it’s Presta valves
You need to search for schrader valves. I can’t remember seeing any but Schrader are not used as much as they were.
Are your tyres marked as tubeless ready it’s more to d9 with porous construction any old tyre will not work tubeless

[Louis Balfour]

leyorkie said:

The valves on that kit won’t fit your wheels as it’s Presta valves
You need to search for schrader valves. I can’t remember seeing any but Schrader are not used as much as they were.
Are your tyres marked as tubeless ready it’s more to d9 with porous construction any old tyre will not work tubeless

I don't know but will check thanks.

[Louis Balfour]

leyorkie said:

The valves on that kit won’t fit your wheels as it’s Presta valves
You need to search for schrader valves. I can’t remember seeing any but Schrader are not used as much as they were.
Are your tyres marked as tubeless ready it’s more to d9 with porous construction any old tyre will not work tubeless

The tyres aren't marked as tubeless. Perhaps I need to wait until she wears them out and then do it.

[Louis Balfour]

Out of interest, what would happen if I were to put tubeless sealant into tubes?

[leyorkie]

The tyres would go flat slowly
It’s to stop punctures not seal the tyre
Google your tyre make model to check and the Google tubeless in the same size.
Tubeless ready are at least twice the price of std

[gazza285]

leyorkie said:

Google your tyre make model to check and the Google tubeless in the same size.
Tubeless ready are at least twice the price of std

I've been running Schwalbe Performance Line tyres tubeless for years on mine and the youth's XC bikes, they are quite happy racing as well as ragging them round trail centres and over the Pennine trails. I found Stans fluid a bit crap though, I use Orange Seal or OKO Magic Milk.

[Louis Balfour]

gazza285 said:

leyorkie said:

Google your tyre make model to check and the Google tubeless in the same size.
Tubeless ready are at least twice the price of std

I've been running Schwalbe Performance Line tyres tubeless for years on mine and the youth's XC bikes, they are quite happy racing as well as ragging them round trail centres and over the Pennine trails. I found Stans fluid a bit crap though, I use Orange Seal or OKO Magic Milk.

What is your message here, are they non-tubeless?

[gazza285]

Louis Balfour said:

What is your message here, are they non-tubeless?

Yes, they are designed for tubes. I have been running them tubeless for five years.

[Louis Balfour]

gazza285 said:

Louis Balfour said:

What is your message here, are they non-tubeless?

Yes, they are designed for tubes. I have been running them tubeless for five years.

I could try it!

[TwilightJohnny]

leyorkie said:

The tyres would go flat slowly
It’s to stop punctures not seal the tyre.

That's really not the case. Tubeless sealant in inner tubes works as well as any other tube with sealant. It does not stop punctures, how can it? It does seal any punctures which are small enough to be sealed.

OP. Your tyres are not tubeless ready, and I suspect your rims are not either. You might be able to get them to seal and hold air but i wouldn't recommend it. You would only need to look at a bump or a kerb and they would burp air and sealant.

[leyorkie]

Ok badly worded
But I wouldn’t depend on tubes with sealant in
I have 2 bikes on tubeless and I had to wait until I changed tyres
I tried with the old tyres and it just foamed out all over so the tyres were porous

I learnt from that now been running over 12 months and no problems

[Gribs]

TwilightJohnny said:

leyorkie said:

The tyres would go flat slowly
It’s to stop punctures not seal the tyre.

That's really not the case. Tubeless sealant in inner tubes works as well as any other tube with sealant. It does not stop punctures, how can it? It does seal any punctures which are small enough to be sealed.

OP. Your tyres are not tubeless ready, and I suspect your rims are not either. You might be able to get them to seal and hold air but i wouldn't recommend it. You would only need to look at a bump or a kerb and they would burp air and sealant.

From running tubeless before it was a proper thing using cut down 24" tubes, normal tyres and liquid latex it works perfectly well but can be hard work to get the tyres to seat initially. The tyre effectively sticks to the inner tube and burping was actually less of a problem than with UST. Modern tubeless rims and tubeless tyres make the setup process simple and easy though.

[the tribester]

gazza285 said:

Yes, they are designed for tubes. I have been running them tubeless for five years.

You've been running the same tyres for 5 years?

or do you just keep buying the same brand non-TR tyre? and run them with sealant?

[Hard-Drive]

Sight thread jack...

I converted my road bike to tubeless over the weekend. Ditched the Conti GP4000 tyres and tubes, added Muc-Off valves & 40ml of sealant, and Conti GP5000TL tyres. Rims are DT Swiss and had tubeless ready tape.

The rear went together fine...no tyre levers needed and I got it pumped up with just a track pump. However the front was bleeding air/sealant out of a couple of the spoke nipple holes and the end join on the rim itself. It went down overnight, so I added another 10mm of sealant and took the wheel off and gave it a good shake in all orientations. It's now stayed inflated overnight.

I suspect the air was leaking into the structure of the rim around where the valve seals on the inside of the rim. Question...do I take it apart and see if I can improve the mechanical seal here in some way, or has the sealant now done it's job and I just need to ride? I assume riding will chuck the sealant around a bit anyway and improve things, correct?

Thanks!

[ukbabz]

It sounds like you need new rim tape, which should cover the spoke holes and stop the air leak there. As for the valve is it in the rim tight enough?

[Louis Balfour]

Out of interest, what would happen if I were to put tubeless sealant into tubes?