SPDs to flats - how to stay on?
Discussion
I've ridden using SPDs for about 20+ years. Its become second nature to not think how to pedal or connect to the bike, it just happens. But, riding with the young bloke recently, using flats, highlighted that my skills ain't what they used to be in terms of actually using my positioning to move the bike around and I've started riding with flats again to get a better feel for the bike.
But, how the hell do you keep on the damn thing when going down rocky, bumpy tracks at the pace of which a modern, long-travel, 29er is capable? I'm going at a pace nowhere near my best times on my local trails, but still don't feel confidently connected or capable of going much faster.
Is it the right shoes? Is it a technique thing? Or is it just time and practice??
But, how the hell do you keep on the damn thing when going down rocky, bumpy tracks at the pace of which a modern, long-travel, 29er is capable? I'm going at a pace nowhere near my best times on my local trails, but still don't feel confidently connected or capable of going much faster.
Is it the right shoes? Is it a technique thing? Or is it just time and practice??
You need proper ‘grippy’ shoes - the classic being from five-ten and decent pedals with pins.
Then learn to keep your heels low. It takes a while but I find flats and clipped make very little difference to foot engagement under normal riding. I just use spds for XC and competition and flats for general riding and training.
Oh and get used to the exquisite pain of flat pedals smashing into your legs. It will happen
Then learn to keep your heels low. It takes a while but I find flats and clipped make very little difference to foot engagement under normal riding. I just use spds for XC and competition and flats for general riding and training.
Oh and get used to the exquisite pain of flat pedals smashing into your legs. It will happen
I would say its down to a combination of the right pedals with the right type of sole/trainer (ie, a dedicated brand made for riding). I've always chosen pedals which have got removable pins so once they get worn you unscrew them and stick a new set in.
The trainers need to have stiffer sole with lower profile grip blocks - ie, a trainer made specifically for pedals/riding like Vans and the like. There are plenty of MTB/BMX brands that do pedal specific soles on their trainers for the pedals to bite into.
The trainers need to have stiffer sole with lower profile grip blocks - ie, a trainer made specifically for pedals/riding like Vans and the like. There are plenty of MTB/BMX brands that do pedal specific soles on their trainers for the pedals to bite into.
Just done the same thing, gone from Speedplay which are no longer made to some flats. First I went with some trainers and my 20 year old DMR V8’s. After a shin call pedal incident I invested in a pair of Taper Pro’s and a pair of FiveTens.
The shoes made a huge difference.
A few ride outs and my hops etc are getting better and I’m not missing the power too much.
I have a pair of Crank Bros Mallets still boxed that I think I’ll be sending back.
The shoes made a huge difference.
A few ride outs and my hops etc are getting better and I’m not missing the power too much.
I have a pair of Crank Bros Mallets still boxed that I think I’ll be sending back.
PomBstard said:
Is it the right shoes? Is it a technique thing? Or is it just time and practice??
It is a combination of decent flat pedals/ shoes and practice.I have been riding flats since I was a young teen and am now 38. Never used anything other than skate shoes or felt that I have needed more specific bike shoes. I currently wear Addidas and have some Nukeproof plastic bodied pedals and don't feel I need more grip. https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nukeproof-neut...
In the past I ran more expensive flats on my downhill bike, that I no longer own, and used to smash down Morzine without issue. And anyone who has been to Morzine/Les Gets knows just how bad the braking bumps get.
So I guess if you spend enough time getting good on flats, you will then be able to go back to clips and improve further. No amount of advice is going to really help, the only way is to put the miles in and learn how to be float over stuff better.
Biggest thing that will make the most difference is foot position.
Clipped in, you generally have the ball of your foot over the pedal axle - do that on flats and you'll get bounced off and roll a pedal, leading to the lovely pedal:shin interface.
Instead, put the ball of your foot over the innermost front pin/corner of the pedal, and weight through your feet (heavy feet, light hands).
Clipped in, you generally have the ball of your foot over the pedal axle - do that on flats and you'll get bounced off and roll a pedal, leading to the lovely pedal:shin interface.
Instead, put the ball of your foot over the innermost front pin/corner of the pedal, and weight through your feet (heavy feet, light hands).
I've gone to flats this year to improve my technique too after realising how much I was relying on pulling up on the pedals when hopping etc - it has been a bit of an adjustment after first riding toe-clips (remember those?) from my teens onwards then SPDs for my sporadic riding over the last 10 years or so.
I'm far from an expert but have been learning what others have suggested here - have the pedal axle under the middle rather than ball of your foot, keep your feet weighted and drop your heels.
Shoes can make a big difference too, and using decent flat pedals with pins (not the budget plastic 'delivery pedals' some bikes come with).
I'm far from an expert but have been learning what others have suggested here - have the pedal axle under the middle rather than ball of your foot, keep your feet weighted and drop your heels.
Shoes can make a big difference too, and using decent flat pedals with pins (not the budget plastic 'delivery pedals' some bikes come with).
Edited by GravelBen on Sunday 21st June 23:01
Thanks all. My shins can testify that I do indeed have correct style pedals with pins. Guards will be next. Also a pair of mtb-specific shoes will help - lateral grip feels a bit sketchy at pace.
Finally, I hear y’all - it’s practice, which begets confidence. I’ll get out and do some more riding. Just as soon as I’ve recovered from Saturday’s off
Finally, I hear y’all - it’s practice, which begets confidence. I’ll get out and do some more riding. Just as soon as I’ve recovered from Saturday’s off
Decent pedals make a massive difference. I’m a big fan of DMR Vaults and my current Burgtec Mk5’s are proving to be very good too.
I mostly ride in 5 10 Freeriders which offer loads of grip and feel. On flats I find there’s quite a fine line with sole stiffness; too soft and I get sore feet but too stiff and the grip and feel suffers (my old Teva’s were dire because they were too stiff). In the past, Giro shoes have been good when broken in as have Shimano AM’s....neither were as grippy as 5 10’s though.
Foot position is key too, your feet need to be much further back than you would with clips; the pedal should really be in the arch of your foot allowing you to cup the pedal. Drop your heels through bumpy bits and you should be grand.
I mostly ride in 5 10 Freeriders which offer loads of grip and feel. On flats I find there’s quite a fine line with sole stiffness; too soft and I get sore feet but too stiff and the grip and feel suffers (my old Teva’s were dire because they were too stiff). In the past, Giro shoes have been good when broken in as have Shimano AM’s....neither were as grippy as 5 10’s though.
Foot position is key too, your feet need to be much further back than you would with clips; the pedal should really be in the arch of your foot allowing you to cup the pedal. Drop your heels through bumpy bits and you should be grand.
Decent shoes.
Foot position - MIDDLE of your foot, more of the arch, should be over the pedal axle. Not the ball of your foot as every 90's rider or roadie will tell you.
And then drop your heels!
I'd also add that riding both, switching between SPD and flats, is really good. I ride both on different bikes depending on weather, how I feel, terrain, etc. Keeps you fresh.
Foot position - MIDDLE of your foot, more of the arch, should be over the pedal axle. Not the ball of your foot as every 90's rider or roadie will tell you.
And then drop your heels!
I'd also add that riding both, switching between SPD and flats, is really good. I ride both on different bikes depending on weather, how I feel, terrain, etc. Keeps you fresh.
MTB specific shoes are the ones to get; I'm relatively new to MTB and found trying to ride with shoes I ride my BMX with doesn't cut the mustard. Etnies with Crank sole are excellent, the Semenuk signature shoes are not quite as pedal death-grip as Five Ten Freeriders but still have a nice stiff supportive sole.
Once you have your shoes/pedals sorted find your local pump track and spend a bit of time there; should accelerate you becoming acclimatised to them.
FWIW I think people riding clipped in are blimming brave, not being able to get away from it in the event of a crash is terrifying
Once you have your shoes/pedals sorted find your local pump track and spend a bit of time there; should accelerate you becoming acclimatised to them.
FWIW I think people riding clipped in are blimming brave, not being able to get away from it in the event of a crash is terrifying
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