Whyte New MTB pedals hitting deck when cornering.

[andygo]

I bought a new Whyte C130c-r bike at the end of May.

Having ridden it several times (well nearly every day) I have noticed that if I am pedaling whilst cornering it has a tendency for the inner pedal to catch the deck. Similar if mounting a kerb or sharp speedbump.

I'm running about 25% droop on the rear shock and a pretty slow bump setting. Pedals are the usual flatties.

Never had similar on my previous Marin Mount Vision. I suspect its because the wheelbase is quite long.

I guess the only answer is shorter cranks, but is this a design fault of the frame or do I just accept it?

The same happens on a mates similar Whyte as well. He found this on a website:

Changing the tyres also highlighted that the geometry, specifically the BB Height, on the T-130 really is optimised for 2.6in tyres. With a smaller 2.4in tyre on the rear the resulting 320mm BB height was borderline too low, and we started brushing pedals on roots and rocks while climbing. The very same climbs we had ridden on the stock tyres with no issues.

[So]

andygo said:

I bought a new Whyte C130c-r bike at the end of May.

Having ridden it several times (well nearly every day) I have noticed that if I am pedaling whilst cornering it has a tendency for the inner pedal to catch the deck. Similar if mounting a kerb or sharp speedbump.

I'm running about 25% droop on the rear shock and a pretty slow bump setting. Pedals are the usual flatties.

Never had similar on my previous Marin Mount Vision. I suspect its because the wheelbase is quite long.

I guess the only answer is shorter cranks, but is this a design fault of the frame or do I just accept it?

The same happens on a mates similar Whyte as well. He found this on a website:

Changing the tyres also highlighted that the geometry, specifically the BB Height, on the T-130 really is optimised for 2.6in tyres. With a smaller 2.4in tyre on the rear the resulting 320mm BB height was borderline too low, and we started brushing pedals on roots and rocks while climbing. The very same climbs we had ridden on the stock tyres with no issues.

I am not knowledgeable about FS MTBs, but I seem to recall seeing a video quite recently about Whyte MTBs, where the manufacturer was defending the decision for a low bottom bracket.

Low BB and "normal" pedals = grounding, I'd have thought.

I will defer to more educated answers.

[dirtbiker]

Just down to 'modern' mountain bike geometry I'm afraid - I had quite a learning curve when I first got my Trek Remedy.

The trick is to not attempt to pedal when cornering or in rough stuff so you just need to learn to keep momentum by pumping which actually ends up being faster and easier.

You could fit shorter cranks but the cash for that would perhaps be better spent on a bit of coaching.

[rustyuk]

I've heard a couple of other people have issues with Whytes. Not heard of any specific solutions other than selling up.

[andygo]

dirtbiker said:

Just down to 'modern' mountain bike geometry I'm afraid - I had quite a learning curve when I first got my Trek Remedy.

The trick is to not attempt to pedal when cornering or in rough stuff so you just need to learn to keep momentum by pumping which actually ends up being faster and easier.

You could fit shorter cranks but the cash for that would perhaps be better spent on a bit of coaching.

Thanks for the coaching advice. I have found a solution to my problem, found some cheap kids stabilisers on ebay. That'll sort the leaning over issue.

[Bathroom_Security]

My stumpjumper did this till I raised the flip chip and increased the sag in the rear shock, I run it close to its pressure limit as I am a heavy person but usually leave it in its mid setting, on heavier stuff it wont bottom out but will use all of its travel, and manages to provide a nice ride. I've not had a strike since.

As said, modern geo for you.

Only things I can suggest are:

Increase air pressure in the shock to keep it from bobbing too much
Buy shorter cranks
Lean to not pedal in corners

I think my next bike maybe an enduro of some sort to get round the current geometry trends.

[WestyCarl]

Don't know what flat pedals you are running. if they are really big (wide) you could try some narrower ones.

[Daveyraveygravey]

Surely this is a design fault? Whether driving or riding off road, you want ground clearance don't you? You wouldn't buy a Defender and slam it, and then complain it won't cross a field?

[Tall_Paul]

Bathroom_Security said:

Lean to not pedal in corners

This.

If you're cornering on dirt, on flat corners, you should be leaning the bike over underneath you, with the outside pedal dropped. if you try and pedal while doing this, every bike will catch a pedal. That's an easy way to an OTB/broken collarbone etc.

Don't pedal though corners.Unless they're slow corners that you're not leaned over.

Daveyraveygravey said:

Surely this is a design fault? Whether driving or riding off road, you want ground clearance don't you? You wouldn't buy a Defender and slam it, and then complain it won't cross a field?

Not a design flaw, user error

If you expect to be able to pedal while doing this, well....

Edited by Tall_Paul on Friday 19th June 11:42

[Justin S]

My hardtail Cannondale has a low bottom bracket and I do catch the ground on occasions. Once I caught a small root with the pedal, which stopped the bike dead and my chest went into the stem and bars. 6 weeks with bruised ribs was the outcome. But I forgive it for being a damn good bike to ride and learn to adopt the ' feature' on the rides.

[wolfracesonic]

andygo said:

Thanks for the coaching advice. I have found a solution to my problem, found some cheap kids stabilisers on ebay. That'll sort the leaning over issue.

Stabilisers are old hat now; if you can get hold of one of these in a grown up size...

...problem solved. Thank me later.

[andygo]

Tall_Paul said:

Not a design flaw, user error

If you expect to be able to pedal while doing this, well....

Edited by Tall_Paul on Friday 19th June 11:42

Haha, Thanks for the compliment. I'm talking at about 5mph and at about that going up a slope with a rock between front and back wheel. In my experience, I have found it best to keep pedalling.

As a matter of interest, the pedals at rest are nearly 4cm lower than my old bike (with 175mm Shimano cranks) and the wheelbase is 15cm longer on the new bike.

Don't think it's user error mate. I obvs know how to prevent it, just imho it happens a bit too easily.

[Tall_Paul]

andygo said:

Haha, Thanks for the compliment. I'm talking at about 5mph and at about that going up a slope with a rock between front and back wheel. In my experience, I have found it best to keep pedalling.

As a matter of interest, the pedals at rest are nearly 4cm lower than my old bike (with 175mm Shimano cranks) and the wheelbase is 15cm longer on the new bike.

Don't think it's user error mate. I obvs know how to prevent it, just imho it happens a bit too easily.

So, you're climbing over stuff then?

In that case, if you don't time your pedals strokes and/or ratchet some pedal strokes over the bigger stuff, you will get pedal strikes.

It's something you get used to, the lower BB and longer wheelbase. You'll find you'll naturally start to time pedal strokes or backpedal to clear stuff.

[stuarthat]

You need to change your technique or change the crank arms maybe 165 ,bikes will suffer some pedal strikes keep doing it you will break the frame .

Edited by stuarthat on Friday 19th June 20:29

[andygo]

Yeah, can pretty easily adapt, I'd like to consider myself not too bad on a mountain bike considering I have been doing it for 35 years or so and surviving the downhill black run in Morzine etc.

Take it a bit easier now i'm 66, but still up for it.

Here are the 2 bikes in question, set up for my wife, hence low saddle position.



Green bikes wheelbase is 15cm longer than the Marin.

Edited by andygo on Friday 19th June 21:32

[shouldbworking]

andygo said:

Yeah, can pretty easily adapt, I'd like to consider myself not too bad on a mountain bike considering I have been doing it for 35 years or so and surviving the downhill black run in Morzine etc.

Take it a bit easier now i'm 66, but still up for it.

Here are the 2 bikes in question, set up for my wife, hence low saddle position.



Green bikes wheelbase is 15cm longer than the Marin.

Edited by andygo on Friday 19th June 21:32

Got to move with the times. For mtb to get more stable and thus faster downhill, bb heights have lowered, which comes with compromises. I'm in the camp that says they are worth it, it's improved my technique regardless of bb height.

The only time I get pedal strikes now is if I'm blowing out my hoop on a technical climb and haven't been able to properly plan for features due to being in the red so to speak.

[defblade]

Tall_Paul said:

If you expect to be able to pedal while doing this, well....

Did that once on my road bike, trying to get around a small roundabout quickly. Lucky to just scrape the pedal and not have it dig in and flip me off! Was amazed when I got home and checked just how far I must have lent the bike over...

[hantsxlg]

Not modern geometry. My 2000 spez. Far enduro had as an annoying low bb height so grinds pedals (even small xtr spuds) easily. You can adapt riding style but can happy over logs/ lumps as much as cornering. Annoying and a 1" higher bb would be a better compromise...

[dreamer75]

I have exactly the same bike as you - the T130CRS - and have exactly the same problem. I've been whinging about it since I got the bike to my long suffering husband.

I know I'm not the best rider but I've struggled with the concept of ratcheting the pedals when I'm climbing or trying to maintain speed on a twisty bit of flat stuff. I end up slowing and almost stopping very quickly just trying to avoid smacking the pedals.

Had a small strop about it a few weeks ago, and we put a bit more air in the rear shock to reduce the sag - not a huge amount - and that has definitely helped. Also made the bike feel much better, so we must've set it up slightly wrong to start with. Still catching pedals on berms, and sometimes on flat rocky or climbing, but it's much better.

I don't really want to change the cranks so I'm persevering for now!

[troc]

Learn to ratchet.