Road bike tyre advice

[brianb]

Prior to the arrival of my new Road bike I Had been borrowing one from a relative to get some practice in advance, all was well and I was clocking up some decent times and mileage Without too much discomfort

My new bike arrived Monday and on coming back from my first ride out I thought I had vibration white finger!!

A closer look at the borrowed bike and the tyres are al least 10mm wider and a little deeper, Is it possible to fit Slightly wider tyres To my new wheels? If so could someone please point me in the right direction of a half decent set for an obvious beginner!

The new bike is here
https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Specialized-Allez-E5-2020...

Cheers

[Evanivitch]

The bike should be on 25mm, and can take upto 28mm according to Tredz own reviews. I don't think you'll be anywhere near as big as you want.

[klootzak]

Hard to make a sensible comment without knowing what the borrowed bike and tyres were.

Chances are your issue is more to do with fit and position than tyres. Simple experiment would be to slacken the stem bolts and roll the bars up a couple of degrees. You'll be amazed how much difference a small shift will make.

Tyre-wise you can easily go to 28mm width on the Allez, but you'll need to spend a bit more to get decent compliance. Continental GP4000 or GP5000 are probably the pick of the bunch, but not cheap at all. Sticking £10 Vittorias or similar on will just seem horrid by comparison.

k

[Julietbravo]

So there are a number of factors that might be causing numbness in your hands:

Seat to high/bars too low/frame too short = too much weight on the your wrists
Brake hoods too high/low causing stress in the wrist as you rest on them
Vibration through the front - headset/wheel skewer too loose, tyre pressures wrong, brake judder.

Some of the new brake hoods with hydraulic reservoirs are huge; on one of my bikes I get wrist pain, but it is a combination of hand position and old gloves; by changing the gloves and altering my hand position from time to time it's OK now. I would have a look at your bike from the side, the top of the brakes should be horizontal like the one in the link above; if they are canted up a few degrees as it will stress your wrists. The adjustment is simple, and is as klootzak describes.

Edited by Julietbravo on Wednesday 3rd June 11:58

[Bathroom_Security]

I've just got an Allez E5 as well, it is very very hard especially coming from a trail bike.

More time I spend on it though, the more i get used to it although Im starting to avoid roads I know leave me with minor brain damage. ive learned to move my hands about, and ive found a hand position I like. No idea if its the right fit for me but it isnt uncomfortable and the reach feels ok to me. Ive some tweaking to do with the seat though.

I love it , bombing it down my favorite back roads in the evening is great fun. About to buy some 28mm Conti GP 5000s.... i think.

[g7jhp]

As others have said:

- Gets some decent tyres (Conti GP 4000S/5000)
- Gloves with gel pads
- Set up bike/ bike fit

[Julietbravo]

Bathroom_Security said:

Ive some tweaking to do with the seat though.

If it helps...

I see loads of people with seats too high. Get someone to follow you and you need to spin as fast as you can. If your seat is too high, the rapid rocking of your pelvis will cause you to bounce in your seat. Drop the seat a tiny bit and try again. A seat too high causes a loss of power and can cause ITB issues as you overreach the pedals.

Have a look at a pic/video of a pro riding in the drops. The pelvis is canted back, the back arched and the core engaged. All of the bend is in the spine, and the pelvis is upright. Dropping your pelvis and arcing your back inwards is the opposite to what you are trying to achieve. Work on your positioning and try and find something that is comfy, powerful and aerodynamic. For 99% of people, that's going to mean a compromise on 1 of the 3 and I know it should be an exact science, but it's not.

Good article here:

https://www.cyclingweekly.com/fitness/bike-fit/set...

I would start at 109%, and the pedal to heel method, and then refine using the hip rock check.

[brianb]

Thanks for the advice fellas, certainly a lot more to it than I imagined!



these gloves arrived today so I’ll give them a go tonight along with a couple of tweaks to the seating position

[Julietbravo]

You have bought a lovely bike from a big company - I am 100% confident you will find a position that makes it a pleasure to ride for long days. It just needs a bit of perseverance. You can also sit on the bike against the wall, and get someone to take pics with your feet in the 3,6, 9 and 12 o'clock positions - then have a look to see if your knees are in the right position (the article talks about using a plumb bob; you can take a pic on your phone and draw a line nowadays).

[Bathroom_Security]

Julietbravo said:

If it helps...

I see loads of people with seats too high. Get someone to follow you and you need to spin as fast as you can. If your seat is too high, the rapid rocking of your pelvis will cause you to bounce in your seat. Drop the seat a tiny bit and try again. A seat too high causes a loss of power and can cause ITB issues as you overreach the pedals.

Have a look at a pic/video of a pro riding in the drops. The pelvis is canted back, the back arched and the core engaged. All of the bend is in the spine, and the pelvis is upright. Dropping your pelvis and arcing your back inwards is the opposite to what you are trying to achieve. Work on your positioning and try and find something that is comfy, powerful and aerodynamic. For 99% of people, that's going to mean a compromise on 1 of the 3 and I know it should be an exact science, but it's not.

Good article here:

https://www.cyclingweekly.com/fitness/bike-fit/set...

I would start at 109%, and the pedal to heel method, and then refine using the hip rock check.

Thanks for this, will have a look in the evenings this week to get it setup

[frisbee]

I used to spend the money and go for GP4000s etc. but I had to fit a much cheaper spare in an emergency, couldn't tell the difference. So I think similar construction and size gives similar feel.

Look at how your hand is sitting on the bars, if its squashed up or your wrists are kinked your hands will suffer.

[TheInternet]

What are your tyre pressures?

[Bathroom_Security]

If it helps, just added GP5000s to mine. Running about 80psi but will increase tomorrow at the rear and the ride quality has improved dramatically, I would say 95% of the buzz has gone. Noise is reduced, feels grippier. Unsure about rolling resistance, I probably cant tell.

They were 40 odd quid from wiggle I think

[brianb]

That’s really good to hear, Looks like I best get some ordered!

Just back from a decent ride out and the gloves have certainly made a difference, I think there is still some adjustment needed to the seat (front down a touch) however all in I’m pretty comfortable

[brianb]

Bathroom_Security said:

If it helps, just added GP5000s to mine. Running about 80psi but will increase tomorrow at the rear and the ride quality has improved dramatically, I would say 95% of the buzz has gone. Noise is reduced, feels grippier. Unsure about rolling resistance, I probably cant tell.

They were 40 odd quid from wiggle I think

Did you go for the tubeless version?

[19Dogger87]

brianb said:

Prior to the arrival of my new Road bike I Had been borrowing one from a relative to get some practice in advance, all was well and I was clocking up some decent times and mileage Without too much discomfort

My new bike arrived Monday and on coming back from my first ride out I thought I had vibration white finger!!

A closer look at the borrowed bike and the tyres are al least 10mm wider and a little deeper, Is it possible to fit Slightly wider tyres To my new wheels? If so could someone please point me in the right direction of a half decent set for an obvious beginner!

The new bike is here
https://www.tredz.co.uk/.Specialized-Allez-E5-2020...

Cheers

Just another thought, if your saddle is angled nose down, you might also be putting additional unnecessary pressure on your bars. Level it with a spirit level

[Ian-27xza]

I recently changed from 25mm tyres to 28mm tyres, both Continental Grand Prix 4 season and the difference was significant. Much more compliant, shock absorbing, comfortable, confidence inspiring, etc...

Quoting pressures is irrelevant unless someone states their weight. I'm 97kgs and run 105psi at the back and 103psi at the front. I have tried lower pressures but these (for me) seem to be the sweet spot between comfort and speed.

My new steed will probably have GP5000 tubeless but that's another story for July.....

[Downward]

Sometimes you will get pins and needles in your hand. Dunno why but sometimes I do too. I’ve had my bike for 6 years now with a bike fit decent gloves and GP4000’s.

It won’t be tyres.

[TheInternet]

Downward said:

It won’t be tyres.

Unless the pressures are too high.

[brianb]

Ian-27xza said:

I recently changed from 25mm tyres to 28mm tyres, both Continental Grand Prix 4 season and the difference was significant. Much more compliant, shock absorbing, comfortable, confidence inspiring, etc...

Quoting pressures is irrelevant unless someone states their weight. I'm 97kgs and run 105psi at the back and 103psi at the front. I have tried lower pressures but these (for me) seem to be the sweet spot between comfort and speed.

My new steed will probably have GP5000 tubeless but that's another story for July.....

Again this just reinforces my thoughts to go for GP5000’s

I’m 83kgs, will check pressures and report back