Clicking from crank under load

[remedy]

Now, I don't think it's the BB as that was replaced last year.
The compression cap has been adjusted about half a turn to take up the slack after it's bedded in.
I've replaced the pedals as the bearings were worn in 1 side.
I've replaced the chain because it had worn.

But, still the clicking persists. It's only when I'm on the top ring going up hill. If I drop to the bottom ring it goes.
It's also not linked to the gear on the cassette as the frequency of click doesn't change as I move up and down the gears.

The bike is a 2017 Giant Defy advanced 2 with 105.
Could it be the chain ring?

Thanks!

[Paul Drawmer]

Have you checked the torque of the chain ring bolts? Note that if it's Shimano, they may be torx not hex.

[remedy]

No, but thanks for the advice, will do. Do you know the Nm?

Also, to add the click is only on the right foot. If I apply pressure with my left and let the right follow the click is much reduced or non existant.

[Julietbravo]

The spare cable out of the front mech isn't catching your shoe is it? Might or might not have happened to me...

[g7jhp]

Worth checking the movement of your cassette to see if it is loose or the bear wheel bearings.

I had a similar noise which happened mainly underload and The bearings in the rear wheels hub were shot.

[wobert]

Does the bike have through axles?

If it does, check they are tight....(guess how I know?)

[remedy]

Thanks all, I do appreciate the suggestions as the origin is hiding well! I'm not sure about the shoes or wheel bearings because the noise stops when I drop to the small chain ring.

I've also just replaced my cleats because they were 3 years old (and pedals at the same time).

[Justin S]

Had a creak yesterday and found one Shimano torx a little loose on my ultegra chainset. Not tested it again yet. Have been chasing this noise for a while, including swopping chains ( quieter) bottom brackets, wheels , regreased pedal spindles. Its been a noisy pain.

[GravelBen]

I've had similar that turned out to be a cleat that wasn't tightened up enough.

It could be that its only on the large chainring that you're producing enough downward 'push' force to make it move slightly, on smaller chainring you might be spinning more smoothly.

I've also had an irritating creak which sounded like a pedal/crank but turned out to be the saddle not being clamped tight enough to the seatpost!

Edited by GravelBen on Tuesday 26th May 08:36

[MBeemerman]

I had exactly this same problem when under load and thought it was the bottom bracket.
I replaced the two jockey wheels on the rear derailer, and replaced the chain and adjusted the bearing in the rear wheel and the click has gone.
It had been driving me mad for weeks and just spoiling the ride !

[remedy]

MBeemerman said:

I had exactly this same problem when under load and thought it was the bottom bracket.
I replaced the two jockey wheels on the rear derailer, and replaced the chain and adjusted the bearing in the rear wheel and the click has gone.
It had been driving me mad for weeks and just spoiling the ride !

It does! Especially when you are overtaking someone uphill. It sounds terrible.

[MBeemerman]

That really does sound like the same problem, it's kind of like a click that you feel through the peddle when your applying max torque.
I also replaced my cassette for a different range of gears so that's why I fitted a new chain.
Can't tell you which one cured it but it's definitely cured,
Think I would start by looking if you can adjust the wheel bearing first then look at the jockey wheels next.

[Bacon Is Proof]

GravelBen said:

I've also had an irritating creak which sounded like a pedal/crank but turned out to be the saddle not being clamped tight enough to the seatpost!

I've cured no end of phantom "crank" noises by greasing and refitting the seat/seatpost.

[remedy]

GravelBen said:

I've had similar that turned out to be a cleat that wasn't tightened up enough.

It could be that its only on the large chainring that you're producing enough downward 'push' force to make it move slightly, on smaller chainring you might be spinning more smoothly.

I've also had an irritating creak which sounded like a pedal/crank but turned out to be the saddle not being clamped tight enough to the seatpost!

Edited by GravelBen on Tuesday 26th May 08:36

I will check the cleat as I've changed it recently so it could be loose.
Better than £90 for a new chainring and cassette!

[remedy]

MBeemerman said:

That really does sound like the same problem, it's kind of like a click that you feel through the peddle when your applying max torque.
I also replaced my cassette for a different range of gears so that's why I fitted a new chain.
Can't tell you which one cured it but it's definitely cured,
Think I would start by looking if you can adjust the wheel bearing first then look at the jockey wheels next.

That's the thing, the bike is 3 years old now and these wearable things are ripe for replacement.

I've got carbon prime wheels. Can you adjust the wheel bearing on these?

[DE1975]

Try all the no cost options before replacing everything. My "clicking crank problem under load" was solved by undoing my pedals and greasing the thread before reattaching to the crank arms.

Another time I swore I'd got a click coming from my crank, turned out my headset was a little loose, nothing to do with the crank

[MBeemerman]

There should be some kind of adjustment on them I would have thought.
Has the wheel any excessive lateral movement on it if you grab the top and move from side to side ?
I have Zipp wheels and to adjust bearing preload on them you just loosen a collar with a Allen key turn clockwise until tight then back off a few millimetres then tighten collar.

[Justin S]

With modern frames being of carbon or large diameter alloy, then the sound gets amplified and can make it sound from somewhere else.
Also check the quick release on the rear wheel as had that creak under load before. Also check spokes are tight , as a loose spoke can create noise.Using the inner chainring you will be powering less to the rear wheel, so might be a reason for it only being noisy on the larger one.
I also had noises from the chain. Was a 10 speed SRAM chain. Found the links were a few thou wider than a shimano chain and it was enough for the pins to just glance the next sprocket up. Its been a pain as I checked jockey wheels, re checked dropout alignment and it was only when I used digital calipers as thought it looked too close to the next sprocket that it showed up. Annoying really as the chain was a 10 speed road chain. Now has a nice KMC X10 chain , which is within spec.

[g7jhp]

remedy said:

Thanks all, I do appreciate the suggestions as the origin is hiding well! I'm not sure about the shoes or wheel bearings because the noise stops when I drop to the small chain ring.

[b]I've also just replaced my cleats because they were 3 years old (and pedals at the same time).[b/]

It's 100% cleats then. I changed mine last week and they weren't aligned as before and they squeaked for 40 miles on my first ride!

[TonyG2003]

Good posts above. First check - very easy - quick release for thru bolts on a disc bike. Then work you way tightening and greasing everything. Then start replacing if you still haven’t sorted it.