Any occassional wheel builders here?
Discussion
Im considering building some wheels, as i like bilding stuff and i build all my own bikes, but can't keep justufying new ones and upgrades! Lockdown projects versus building endless technical Lego etc.
I've no issue to buy a stand etc. and will start with old hubs and build them into new wheels with new rims etc. to practise on before I buy a set of Enve's and CK's to ruin I know its not economical versus full sets or even custom built, but that isnt the purpose. I'm also sidelined with a busted collarbone, so the gentle'ish demands of building them almost feels like rehab and recovery !
Interested to hear thoughts, opinions on it....
I've no issue to buy a stand etc. and will start with old hubs and build them into new wheels with new rims etc. to practise on before I buy a set of Enve's and CK's to ruin I know its not economical versus full sets or even custom built, but that isnt the purpose. I'm also sidelined with a busted collarbone, so the gentle'ish demands of building them almost feels like rehab and recovery !
Interested to hear thoughts, opinions on it....
I’ve done a few, mosty low end stuff for commuter bike, etc. Trueing and tensioning properly is harder than assembling in the first place!
This book has everything you need: https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php
This book has everything you need: https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php
I do build wheels and most of mine were built by me . Just remember every 4th spoke is the same , whichever way you build it. I started by sitting in front of the tv and getting the spokes all laced up, which chilled me rather than thinking its a rush. Remember that after lacing, to take tension up, so you have the same threads visible on each nipple.
I use this website to work out spoke lengths .
https://www.prowheelbuilder.com/spokelengthcalcula...
Other than that, make sure the dishing is correct using a dishing tool ( easier than using a frame to measure) and a wheel jig if you can.
Its not rocket science , but getting the wheel round can be tricky and tensioned correctly takes time. Have a go, its a good feeling when you ride on a wheel you built and stays good.
I use this website to work out spoke lengths .
https://www.prowheelbuilder.com/spokelengthcalcula...
Other than that, make sure the dishing is correct using a dishing tool ( easier than using a frame to measure) and a wheel jig if you can.
Its not rocket science , but getting the wheel round can be tricky and tensioned correctly takes time. Have a go, its a good feeling when you ride on a wheel you built and stays good.
I learnt to build wheels many years ago when I was working in a bike shop, when I asked to get some wheels built, the mechanics said they were too busy and learn how to do it myself! They showed me the basics, we had a book about wheel building, and cracked on with it. Every bike I have that has hand built wheels on it was done by me, ended up building wheels for mates, and few customers when the workshop was flat out and we were desperate to hit our weekly target.
The better the truing stand you use, the more precise you can true a wheel. We had the best Park Tools stand you could get (which they no longer make), I saw them in the trucks of Pro Race Teams, and it was so much better in rigidity and precision to the Stand next level down the TS-4.
https://www.parktool.com/product/master-truing-sta...
One of the mechanics broke it, in some after work drunken incident so they ordered a new one. I managed to score the broken one, bribed my boss with beers probably, and called up Park Tools in the US, told them the list broken parts and they posted over replacement parts over and only cost me £29.20 (I was bored enough to just go through my old credit card statements out of interest to find out how much it was.....). I don't know how much they cost, found something said they were over $1k in the US, even the cost price which a shop paid it was loads....
The better the truing stand you use, the more precise you can true a wheel. We had the best Park Tools stand you could get (which they no longer make), I saw them in the trucks of Pro Race Teams, and it was so much better in rigidity and precision to the Stand next level down the TS-4.
https://www.parktool.com/product/master-truing-sta...
One of the mechanics broke it, in some after work drunken incident so they ordered a new one. I managed to score the broken one, bribed my boss with beers probably, and called up Park Tools in the US, told them the list broken parts and they posted over replacement parts over and only cost me £29.20 (I was bored enough to just go through my old credit card statements out of interest to find out how much it was.....). I don't know how much they cost, found something said they were over $1k in the US, even the cost price which a shop paid it was loads....
plenty of youtube videos out there too
and, as with almost anything to do with bikes, there is www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
as others have said, it isn't hugely difficult, but it is definitely something you get better at with practice
and, as with almost anything to do with bikes, there is www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html
as others have said, it isn't hugely difficult, but it is definitely something you get better at with practice
Thanks for taking time to share the different resources, some I’ve found and looked at in researching it. I’ve done a reasonable amount of reading/watching and reckon with half reasonable kit and patience I could build some wheels which I could actually ride. I’ve got a couple of pairs to build for different bikes before buying more expensive parts, recycling some existing hubs to new rims.
I’ll buy the book download as that I hadn’t seen.
Thanks
I’ll buy the book download as that I hadn’t seen.
Thanks
sjg said:
I’ve done a few, mosty low end stuff for commuter bike, etc. Trueing and tensioning properly is harder than assembling in the first place!
This book has everything you need: https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php
Seconded, this book by Roger Musson is fantastic and well worth the money.This book has everything you need: https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php
I followed the book to build my first wheel and it helped, just be careful to follow the instructions carefully.
I built a second DT Swiss 500db for my winter commute so I could easily swap between studded and non studded tyres and dare I say it, the wheel I built is better than the shop built one.
I went OTT and bought a wheel tension gauge too as just couldn't get the hand of the tensioning by ear and this was well worth it in my opinion.
Also for a wheel truing stand I am bang in the middle of building one from the Appendix in Rogers book, well worth checking this out.
I will have to post some pics of my stand as it nears completion.
Johno said:
Thanks for taking time to share the different resources, some I’ve found and looked at in researching it. I’ve done a reasonable amount of reading/watching and reckon with half reasonable kit and patience I could build some wheels which I could actually ride. I’ve got a couple of pairs to build for different bikes before buying more expensive parts, recycling some existing hubs to new rims.
I’ll buy the book download as that I hadn’t seen.
Thanks
Get the book and give it a go, I am sure you'll do just fine and won't regret it. The first time I tried building a wheel I didn't read the instructions properly and gave up and had a shop finish it off, the second time I realised my mistake and it went well.I’ll buy the book download as that I hadn’t seen.
Thanks
Read the instructions carefully
My first wheel build took 3 days!!!
Thankfully after doing half a dozen or so, I can get one done in under 50 mins easy now. I am really finicky about them though and use a micrometer so if there is even 0.2 mm of skew/bend/wobble - i keep going till there is none!! It is right that really truing a wheel perfectly takes most of the time. I realized its mainly patience to get it right and a decent eye to get them really good. There are some brilliant spoke calculators online to take all the math out of it now so it easy to get what you need. The rest is just repetition & diligence. Id recommend the book above.
Thankfully after doing half a dozen or so, I can get one done in under 50 mins easy now. I am really finicky about them though and use a micrometer so if there is even 0.2 mm of skew/bend/wobble - i keep going till there is none!! It is right that really truing a wheel perfectly takes most of the time. I realized its mainly patience to get it right and a decent eye to get them really good. There are some brilliant spoke calculators online to take all the math out of it now so it easy to get what you need. The rest is just repetition & diligence. Id recommend the book above.
Again, thanks all for the resources and encouragement.
Book bought, plus stand and other bits .... Going to start by replacing a set of rims, with new spokes,nipples and rims.
Once I have some confidence and have rebuilt these and another set I have, then I may build myself something more exotic, initially for the MTB and later perhaps for the road bike.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Book bought, plus stand and other bits .... Going to start by replacing a set of rims, with new spokes,nipples and rims.
Once I have some confidence and have rebuilt these and another set I have, then I may build myself something more exotic, initially for the MTB and later perhaps for the road bike.
I'll let you know how I get on.
smack said:
The better the truing stand you use, the more precise you can true a wheel. We had the best Park Tools stand you could get (which they no longer make), I saw them in the trucks of Pro Race Teams, and it was so much better in rigidity and precision to the Stand next level down the TS-4.
https://www.parktool.com/product/master-truing-sta...
I really enjoy truing a wheel - it's relaxing in a zen sort of way and you get a result at the end (I like polishing stuff for the same reason) - but I have this Park Tools wheel truing stand ... and now I also have Wheel Truing Stand Envy!https://www.parktool.com/product/master-truing-sta...
Never knew that could be a thing
defblade said:
smack said:
The better the truing stand you use, the more precise you can true a wheel. We had the best Park Tools stand you could get (which they no longer make), I saw them in the trucks of Pro Race Teams, and it was so much better in rigidity and precision to the Stand next level down the TS-4.
https://www.parktool.com/product/master-truing-sta...
I really enjoy truing a wheel - it's relaxing in a zen sort of way and you get a result at the end (I like polishing stuff for the same reason) - but I have this Park Tools wheel truing stand ... and now I also have Wheel Truing Stand Envy!https://www.parktool.com/product/master-truing-sta...
Never knew that could be a thing
Thanks again all, especially the link to the Roger Musson book, very useful and more detailed and pragmatic, common sense advice.
I read it before starting and throughout as reference. I built up a pair of MTB wheels using the old hubs, which were laced ‘Shimano’ style, so already a small complication. Took my time as there’s no rush and with a broken collar bone I don’t have the dexterity I’d like.
Wheels are within 0.2mm lateral, 0.4mm radial and 1mm dish. Spoke tensions are within 10% and found the Park tools WTA site useful for tracking and adjusting/storing tension figures. Again, took my time For each stage. Also, as per the book, buying the spokes according to internet data confirms the spoke lengths calculated were slightly too long and would have opted for a 2mm shorter length if I built them again, for one side, but not too long to need rebuilding.
Really enjoyed it and learnt a lot for next sets. Doing the MTB wheels was probably easier, than a lightweight narrow alloy road rim.
Duke racing Lucky Star HD 6TERS, Sapim D-light spokeS with Al nipples onto Hope Pro4’s I had already.
Trueing old wheels now showed cracked spoke beds on my hunt 4seasons disc rear wheel after 3yrs of commuting/winter abuse, so considering building a new set of wheels which cater for what I need.
Thanks again all.
I read it before starting and throughout as reference. I built up a pair of MTB wheels using the old hubs, which were laced ‘Shimano’ style, so already a small complication. Took my time as there’s no rush and with a broken collar bone I don’t have the dexterity I’d like.
Wheels are within 0.2mm lateral, 0.4mm radial and 1mm dish. Spoke tensions are within 10% and found the Park tools WTA site useful for tracking and adjusting/storing tension figures. Again, took my time For each stage. Also, as per the book, buying the spokes according to internet data confirms the spoke lengths calculated were slightly too long and would have opted for a 2mm shorter length if I built them again, for one side, but not too long to need rebuilding.
Really enjoyed it and learnt a lot for next sets. Doing the MTB wheels was probably easier, than a lightweight narrow alloy road rim.
Duke racing Lucky Star HD 6TERS, Sapim D-light spokeS with Al nipples onto Hope Pro4’s I had already.
Trueing old wheels now showed cracked spoke beds on my hunt 4seasons disc rear wheel after 3yrs of commuting/winter abuse, so considering building a new set of wheels which cater for what I need.
Thanks again all.
Just wanted to say thanks to all contributors, especially the Roger Musson book link.
These are the 3rd set of wheels I’ve built, these are for a bike build that’s slowly gathering parts whilst I wait for the frame.
For those who maybe considering it, if you follow the instructions, don’t look for short cuts, take your time and keeping inspecting/checking/measuring it really is fairly straight forward. It is a science, not black magic. I’ve over 1200Kms on the first 2 sets, one set off road, without any issues, remaining straight and true. One set on old hubs, alloy rims, second set on new hubs and carbon rims.
These are Duke Racing Baccara 56/48mm rims, DTSwiss 180’s laced with Sapim CX Rays. The first set of straight pull spoked wheels I’ve done.
Thanks all.
These are the 3rd set of wheels I’ve built, these are for a bike build that’s slowly gathering parts whilst I wait for the frame.
For those who maybe considering it, if you follow the instructions, don’t look for short cuts, take your time and keeping inspecting/checking/measuring it really is fairly straight forward. It is a science, not black magic. I’ve over 1200Kms on the first 2 sets, one set off road, without any issues, remaining straight and true. One set on old hubs, alloy rims, second set on new hubs and carbon rims.
These are Duke Racing Baccara 56/48mm rims, DTSwiss 180’s laced with Sapim CX Rays. The first set of straight pull spoked wheels I’ve done.
Thanks all.
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