Help on road tyres and tubes
Discussion
Just had my first puncture in 4 years of road riding and need some help with getting new tubes and tyres.
The tubes I think are pretty easy to sort, but happy for some recommendations.
I think the tyres were due to be replaced soon anyway as they were starting to crack/split and the rear was pretty squared off, see below pictures (all rear tyre).
Now I was thinking of buying some carbon rims recently anyway and when doing some research one of the things I read about my existing set-up was that the tyres were an older style size. My bike is a 2016 Specialized Tarmac Comp with 23c width tyres.
So two questions:
- If I just replace the tubes and tyres, should I stick with 23c or should I change to something else?
- if I decide to use this opportunity and some man maths to switch to carbon rims, what I should I go for, budget around £600
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/prime-rr-50-v2-carbon-cli... Something like these?
Ps. When I say 4 years of road riding, I’ve probably done 1000km a year for the last 3 years, but due to the current situation, furloughing, cancelling my gym I’ve done 500km in the last 2 weeks and expect to do 5,000 this year.
The tubes I think are pretty easy to sort, but happy for some recommendations.
I think the tyres were due to be replaced soon anyway as they were starting to crack/split and the rear was pretty squared off, see below pictures (all rear tyre).
Now I was thinking of buying some carbon rims recently anyway and when doing some research one of the things I read about my existing set-up was that the tyres were an older style size. My bike is a 2016 Specialized Tarmac Comp with 23c width tyres.
So two questions:
- If I just replace the tubes and tyres, should I stick with 23c or should I change to something else?
- if I decide to use this opportunity and some man maths to switch to carbon rims, what I should I go for, budget around £600
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/prime-rr-50-v2-carbon-cli... Something like these?
Ps. When I say 4 years of road riding, I’ve probably done 1000km a year for the last 3 years, but due to the current situation, furloughing, cancelling my gym I’ve done 500km in the last 2 weeks and expect to do 5,000 this year.
Spend the 600 on hand built wheels from Wheelsmith (check his website). I have 35mm deep aero alloy built on Dura Ace hubs for that money. I went against Carbon for a few reasons. Road condition mostly, that and wanting hand built inside my budget.
Then run 25mm tyres using light weight tubes.
Job jobbed.
Then run 25mm tyres using light weight tubes.
Job jobbed.
Conti GP5000 seem to be a popular choice ... currently a couple of weeks into the tubeless versions which seem comfortable (25mm) and grippy enough. I am a big Vittoria fan so run these on best wheels and in tub format on race wheelsets.
Just bought a pair of Pirelli P Zero classics for the new bike ... mounted them on the wheels but not managed to try as yet. But they look good stood still :-)
Just bought a pair of Pirelli P Zero classics for the new bike ... mounted them on the wheels but not managed to try as yet. But they look good stood still :-)
+1 for GP5000s, 4000S’s were my previous favourite, these are now. They just don’t puncture and are quick.
Tubes are tubes. I just buy a load of Continental ones from Evans when they’re £3 each.
Oh, 25 mm width without question. Don’t worry about the science or maths involved, it makes your brain hurt. They’re just faster and it’s pretty much universally accepted now.
If you are interested why there are a hundred articles and tests on it, like this one:
https://www.cyclist.co.uk/in-depth/726/are-wider-t...
Tubes are tubes. I just buy a load of Continental ones from Evans when they’re £3 each.
Oh, 25 mm width without question. Don’t worry about the science or maths involved, it makes your brain hurt. They’re just faster and it’s pretty much universally accepted now.
If you are interested why there are a hundred articles and tests on it, like this one:
https://www.cyclist.co.uk/in-depth/726/are-wider-t...
Vittoria Corsa Control G 2.0 is what I've been running, decent comfy ride and puncture protection has so far been good and they haven't cut up over the winter either, plus they come with an option for a tan side wall.
If you wanted to check those out as an alternative to the GP5000 might be worth a look but if you opt for the GP5000 you wont be disappointed. Echo the other poster above, I've always used continental tubes and you wont go wrong with those.
I'd start with that first and then see how you get on then look at wheels later on. The only thing you might find is that the braking is a bit sketchy in the wet with a carbon brake track and rim brakes but if you do go down that route dont forget you'll need to swap out the brake pads for carbon specific ones.
If you wanted to check those out as an alternative to the GP5000 might be worth a look but if you opt for the GP5000 you wont be disappointed. Echo the other poster above, I've always used continental tubes and you wont go wrong with those.
I'd start with that first and then see how you get on then look at wheels later on. The only thing you might find is that the braking is a bit sketchy in the wet with a carbon brake track and rim brakes but if you do go down that route dont forget you'll need to swap out the brake pads for carbon specific ones.
TCX said:
Don't bother with the wheels, slime inner tubes n 25 mm gp4000 tyres are as good as you'll ever need
I swear by slime inner tubes for autumn, winter and early spring. And tyre width is personal choice, depending on the road surfaces were you ride; 25mm are normally a bit too thin for me, especially on the rural/semi rural roads were I often ride. And with that, I went out today on the rim braked bike, and it was born out; punctured, and found out the inner tube was a normal one....On the CX bike I tend to use 35-40mm tyres with slime inner tubes, and punctures are virtually non existant.
I had GP4000s for a couple of years and liked them, fast and reliable but then had a couple of rides earlier this year where I was getting multiple punctures per ride. I think they just start to pick up debris that works it way into the carcass and the wet winter we had (with all the crap on the roads) finished them off. They're out of production now though having been replaced by the GP5000.
Just swapped to Schwalbe One Pro Evo set up tubeless and (touch wood) no punctures so far in a couple of hundred miles, and the bike feels much more stable in corners. Always felt the GP4000s were about to wash out. Average speeds slightly higher too with similar average power. It's all subjective though and everyone has different opinions.
Just swapped to Schwalbe One Pro Evo set up tubeless and (touch wood) no punctures so far in a couple of hundred miles, and the bike feels much more stable in corners. Always felt the GP4000s were about to wash out. Average speeds slightly higher too with similar average power. It's all subjective though and everyone has different opinions.
GP5000s. Switch to 25s. Buy latex tubes.
That is the correct answer for any summer wheel.
The next question is how bling to go - a few years back, I would be saying go for a handbuilt open pro on an ultegra hub as the ultimate do anything wheel, but carbon rims have became so much better and more affordable that its hard to not at least consider them.
Don't be frightened of deep sections or of riding carbon everyday - unless you are a "rugby player" and aim for potholes, they will be no worse for damage than normal wheels and if you aren't doing thousands of kilometers of wet alpine descending, the brake tracks will last for ages. Plus they look far cooler and the noise they make is brilliant.
No one really needs deep section carbon wheels in the same way a Micra will get you to the shops just fine. If you can afford to spend then I think you know the correct answer on this one.
That is the correct answer for any summer wheel.
The next question is how bling to go - a few years back, I would be saying go for a handbuilt open pro on an ultegra hub as the ultimate do anything wheel, but carbon rims have became so much better and more affordable that its hard to not at least consider them.
Don't be frightened of deep sections or of riding carbon everyday - unless you are a "rugby player" and aim for potholes, they will be no worse for damage than normal wheels and if you aren't doing thousands of kilometers of wet alpine descending, the brake tracks will last for ages. Plus they look far cooler and the noise they make is brilliant.
No one really needs deep section carbon wheels in the same way a Micra will get you to the shops just fine. If you can afford to spend then I think you know the correct answer on this one.
Hi, anyone got experience of Hutchinson Fusion 5 Performance? A mate is running them riding the same roads as me without a single puncture. I'm running tired Specialised tyres and am forever getting punctures (as in literally 2 or 3 per ride), they're self sealing but I'm fed up with cleaning sealant after each ride. It's hard to get past the GP5000's though...
Hutchinson's are cheaper as well....
Hutchinson's are cheaper as well....
Currently running GP5000s with Conti's supersonic inner tubes, which I seem to remember being as light/lighter than latex but without the need to reinflate the tyre on a frequent basis.
Very happy with them.
Also rate the Pirelli P Zero Velo, and used the 4S version throughout winter with no punctures.
Very happy with them.
Also rate the Pirelli P Zero Velo, and used the 4S version throughout winter with no punctures.
Thanks for all the advice so far.
Can’t seem to get GP4000’s anywhere so got some GP5000’s and some new tubes to get me back on the road. Will look at wheels properly in a few weeks.
The GP5000’s don’t seem to be quite as highly rated as the GP4000’s, nearly went for some Michelin Pro4 endurance v2’s as they seem highly rated but stuck with the advice on here. Plus the Michelin’s weren’t mentioned once.
Can’t seem to get GP4000’s anywhere so got some GP5000’s and some new tubes to get me back on the road. Will look at wheels properly in a few weeks.
The GP5000’s don’t seem to be quite as highly rated as the GP4000’s, nearly went for some Michelin Pro4 endurance v2’s as they seem highly rated but stuck with the advice on here. Plus the Michelin’s weren’t mentioned once.
Went on my first ride yesterday with the new tyres and they felt a bit faster, below are two similar rides a week apart. I think once I realised I was going a bit faster I did try harder as well.
Managed to split a tube when putting them on so had to get another.
Really makes me want to get some carbon rims now just because they look great.
Managed to split a tube when putting them on so had to get another.
Really makes me want to get some carbon rims now just because they look great.
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