Moved from 110-100 stem safety advice please
Discussion
Hi All,
I was finding the reach a bit long on my B’Twin. Especially after riding my Trek with a shorter stem and slightly smaller frame.
I purchase a pack of spacers and they have the same diameter but are slightly thinner edge to edge.
I’ve tightened everything back up and left 5mm gap between the top of the tube and the top of the stem. The photos on the beige fabric show the same diameter but width difference. All seems line up nicely on the bike.
Thanks in advance.
P.S just a changed the chain as well and that was interesting using the quick links. Didn’t need the tool in the end but held the back brake and pedalled to get them to click. Bike rides much better now.
I was finding the reach a bit long on my B’Twin. Especially after riding my Trek with a shorter stem and slightly smaller frame.
I purchase a pack of spacers and they have the same diameter but are slightly thinner edge to edge.
I’ve tightened everything back up and left 5mm gap between the top of the tube and the top of the stem. The photos on the beige fabric show the same diameter but width difference. All seems line up nicely on the bike.
Thanks in advance.
P.S just a changed the chain as well and that was interesting using the quick links. Didn’t need the tool in the end but held the back brake and pedalled to get them to click. Bike rides much better now.
option click said:
er, the 5mm should be steerer above the top of the stem, not below it
...and what's that clamp immediately above the top bearing cover?
Thanks for the reply. ...and what's that clamp immediately above the top bearing cover?
Edited by option click on Wednesday 19th February 14:32
The third clamp from the top? I never touched it as wasn’t sure but looks like you’d use it when removing the fork/steerer tire
option click said:
er, the 5mm should be steerer above the top of the stem, not below it
You sure? That's not what guides say.Edited by option click on Wednesday 19th February 14:32
The steerer tube should be just below the top edge of the stem.
If the steerer tube is above the stem, it has nothing to preload against.
Thanks all. It’s appreciated and want to be sure. This is the photo from the original stem. I was aiming to get as close to this. Assume it wasn’t built text book by the supplier of these bikes?
As I was putting it back together I did wonder if it was correct from looking at the Trek (supplied by LBS)
I’ve now dropped it by removing a spacer and it sits so there is a 2-3mm gap between top of steerer and the top bolt of the stem lines up with the top of the steerer.
Safe to ride tomorrow?
As I was putting it back together I did wonder if it was correct from looking at the Trek (supplied by LBS)
I’ve now dropped it by removing a spacer and it sits so there is a 2-3mm gap between top of steerer and the top bolt of the stem lines up with the top of the steerer.
Safe to ride tomorrow?
It’s perfectly ok to run the preload cap up against the stem. I think the perceived need to a spacer above the stem comes from road racing and carbon steerer tubes but in the mtb world it’s pretty common to only have spacers below the stem.
You do only need 2-3 mm of gap to enable a good preload, 5 m’m is unnecessary imho.
You do only need 2-3 mm of gap to enable a good preload, 5 m’m is unnecessary imho.
GOATever said:
It looks like someone has put a seat post clamp on the steerer. The only thing I can imagine is that there was a replacement fork, and the steerer has not been cut down, and is too long, and that clamp is in place of a couple of 3 mm spacers. I like my ‘bodges’ but that’s superb.
It's designed and sold like that, see my previous post.Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff