MTB doesn't freewheel well
Discussion
Afternoon all.
Recently started going out on the bike again, an old 2008ish Trek 3700.... Not the most glamorous bike on PH I'm sure....
The issue I'm having is, that once I've stopped peddling, it doesn't take long before the bike stops.
If the oher half stops peddling at the same time (on her bike, we're not on a tandum.... Although..... ) she goes much further and faster than I do.
I know very little about bike maintenance beyond lubing the chain and adjusting the derailleurs. Do I need new hubs and/or cassette, 9r can it all be stripped and greased?
Also, what tools will I need? I've got plenty of car stuff, but nothing bike specific.
Thanks.
Recently started going out on the bike again, an old 2008ish Trek 3700.... Not the most glamorous bike on PH I'm sure....
The issue I'm having is, that once I've stopped peddling, it doesn't take long before the bike stops.
If the oher half stops peddling at the same time (on her bike, we're not on a tandum.... Although.....
) she goes much further and faster than I do.I know very little about bike maintenance beyond lubing the chain and adjusting the derailleurs. Do I need new hubs and/or cassette, 9r can it all be stripped and greased?
Also, what tools will I need? I've got plenty of car stuff, but nothing bike specific.
Thanks.
In addition to the above, have you checked the brake pads arent rubbing slightly?
Lift the bike up and spin the wheel by hand and see how quickly it stops. I used to have this probelm on my old hardtail, sometimes felt like i was constantly riding uphill with the extra effort required (when it was realy bad)
Lift the bike up and spin the wheel by hand and see how quickly it stops. I used to have this probelm on my old hardtail, sometimes felt like i was constantly riding uphill with the extra effort required (when it was realy bad)
Electro1980 said:
It could be that the bearings are dry or gone. As said, spin the back wheel on its own and see what happens. This will tell you a lot.
Plan is to strip and grease this weekend.The cassette is a subrace 13-34 7 speed, which I think is a lockring type if google isn't lying to me.
I've search for lockring tools but there are a few different types so not sure on which I actually need.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Off road tyres don't roll well on road. Big improvement can be had by switching to semi knobbly tyres. Still fine for tracks and tow paths but faster on road in fact if you ride mainly road and smoothish paths go full touring tyre
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/schwalb...
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/schwalb...
Cleaning and repacking hubs and the cassette body requires specific tools - thin 14mm cone spanners, for example.
If you want to clean and reuse the bearings bear in mind they have a tendency to ping out and disappear.
Check online tutorials before you attempt it.
RJ the Bike Guy on YouTube does good Tutorials, even if he says ‘go ahead’ a bit too much.
If you want to clean and reuse the bearings bear in mind they have a tendency to ping out and disappear.
Check online tutorials before you attempt it.
RJ the Bike Guy on YouTube does good Tutorials, even if he says ‘go ahead’ a bit too much.
By the way, if you put up a photo of the rear cogset on the wheel, minus the quick release, I will be able to tell you if it’s a freewheel or a freehub (cassette).
As it’s a 7-speed it could well be either.
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/199/bicycle-rear-spro...
As it’s a 7-speed it could well be either.
https://bike.bikegremlin.com/199/bicycle-rear-spro...
Dave. said:
I found "my" sunrace (not subrace) cassette online and it said I need a Shimano tool (forget the number) so I've ordered one ready for the weekend, hopefully the website was correct.
Watched a few vids too so kinda know what I'm letting myself in to, 8f I can get it apart that is.
Ok, but if you’re going to repack the hub you’ll need an 8mm Allen key and two 14mm cone spanners too, I think. A grease gun makes things easier too. Watched a few vids too so kinda know what I'm letting myself in to, 8f I can get it apart that is.
Got a few cone spanners but unsure on the sizes of them.
Got a selection of lubes and greased too.
Brakes are crappy v brakes, but they're well adjusted and not dragging.
This thing is over 10yr old, been pressure washed a couple of times in the first year or two, been stood for 4 years, and never had anything other than chain lube. So it will be good to take a few bits apart and clean/grease where needed.
Got a selection of lubes and greased too.
Brakes are crappy v brakes, but they're well adjusted and not dragging.
This thing is over 10yr old, been pressure washed a couple of times in the first year or two, been stood for 4 years, and never had anything other than chain lube. So it will be good to take a few bits apart and clean/grease where needed.
OK guys,
Got everything apart this afternoon.
Got the cassette off (the tool was the right one!) and it was slightly stiff.
Flushed it through with a load of 3in1 and loads of crap came out. It's now running much smoother.
The axle was running rough, so pulled that apart too, cleaned all the bearings (didn't even lose any!) and reassembled with bike grease. Slightly better rolling now, but still not great, or as good as the OH's bike.
Got everything apart this afternoon.
Got the cassette off (the tool was the right one!) and it was slightly stiff.
Flushed it through with a load of 3in1 and loads of crap came out. It's now running much smoother.
The axle was running rough, so pulled that apart too, cleaned all the bearings (didn't even lose any!) and reassembled with bike grease. Slightly better rolling now, but still not great, or as good as the OH's bike.
If it is the freehub that is on its way out, then they can usually be replaced rather than buying whole new wheels or hubs. There are many different types, so get advice on which is the right one (I'd recommend Pedal On in Tadley, Berkshire). They carry most in stock, or do a Google search... https://www.google.com/search?q=trek+freehub+body&...
They need a bigger Allen wrench to swap, bigger than is included in most sets, but whenever I've bought one it has been supplied with an adaptor of the correct size. It's honestly just one simple remove/refit operation over and above cleaning/regreasing the bearings.
If you are going to do your own maintenance, especially cassette swaps, then ditch the chain whip and buy one of these... https://www.decathlon.co.uk/chain-whip-cassette-re... ...the single best bike tool i've bought.
I've had many freehubs pack up on me. They are a weak point in many cheaper wheels due to lack of adequate weather sealing. I now keep a spare one in the garage. From the factory they are greased, and the pawls in the ratchet mechanism are smooth, and retract and pick up drive rather well. Then "stuff" gets into them, and water washes out the grease, meaning the pawls can get to be stubborn. Some failures have been when they get stuck in the "up" position, creating an effectively "fixed" rear hub. More common is the pawls becoming reluctant to pop up and pick up drive, leaving you with no drive whatsoever.
Flushing them through with GT85 or WD40, and putting a little 3-in-1 into them can recover things, as can being quite liberal with the grease when putting the cup & cone bearings back together to stop water getting in so easily. But eventually they will need replacing, and it's not been hard to do. My wheels are 'own brand' Giant wheels, but they seem to use off-the-shelf freehubs because when the Giant branded freehubs were out of stock, Pedal On have sold me both Cannondale and Trek/Bontrager branded freehubs that were identical in specification and fit. Keeping the bearings regularly serviced helps too, to keep the grease fresh which should help hold back water ingress.
And for anyone caught out by a freehub failure out on the road/trail? If you have lost drive completely then you can cable-tie your cassette to your spokes. This will give you a temporary "fixed gear" bike in order to get home to fix it properly.
They need a bigger Allen wrench to swap, bigger than is included in most sets, but whenever I've bought one it has been supplied with an adaptor of the correct size. It's honestly just one simple remove/refit operation over and above cleaning/regreasing the bearings.
If you are going to do your own maintenance, especially cassette swaps, then ditch the chain whip and buy one of these... https://www.decathlon.co.uk/chain-whip-cassette-re... ...the single best bike tool i've bought.
I've had many freehubs pack up on me. They are a weak point in many cheaper wheels due to lack of adequate weather sealing. I now keep a spare one in the garage. From the factory they are greased, and the pawls in the ratchet mechanism are smooth, and retract and pick up drive rather well. Then "stuff" gets into them, and water washes out the grease, meaning the pawls can get to be stubborn. Some failures have been when they get stuck in the "up" position, creating an effectively "fixed" rear hub. More common is the pawls becoming reluctant to pop up and pick up drive, leaving you with no drive whatsoever.
Flushing them through with GT85 or WD40, and putting a little 3-in-1 into them can recover things, as can being quite liberal with the grease when putting the cup & cone bearings back together to stop water getting in so easily. But eventually they will need replacing, and it's not been hard to do. My wheels are 'own brand' Giant wheels, but they seem to use off-the-shelf freehubs because when the Giant branded freehubs were out of stock, Pedal On have sold me both Cannondale and Trek/Bontrager branded freehubs that were identical in specification and fit. Keeping the bearings regularly serviced helps too, to keep the grease fresh which should help hold back water ingress.
And for anyone caught out by a freehub failure out on the road/trail? If you have lost drive completely then you can cable-tie your cassette to your spokes. This will give you a temporary "fixed gear" bike in order to get home to fix it properly.
Electro1980 said:
It could be that the bearings are dry or gone. As said, spin the back wheel on its own and see what happens. This will tell you a lot.
This is going to sound odd, but listen to the frame.
Confused? I'll try to un-confuse you...Rough bearings (anywhere on the bike) can be heard through the frame. Keeping your head clear of moving parts, get someone to lift the rear wheel off the floor and spin it, while you press an ear to the frame. A well lubricated bearing in good shape will make a noise, but it will be a smooth noise, and without resistance it should run on and on and on. A rough, worn, or dry bearing will stop rolling much sooner, and you'll hear a pretty terrible noise through the frame even if it isn't audible when you listen "normally". You can use this method to isolate a problem to a specific bearing, so long as you make sure to only operate one at a time. So, for instance, if you suspect it's the rear hub bearing don't operated the cranks at the same time. To diagnose a bottom bracket bearing, listen to the frame while turning the cranks backwards while the rear wheel is braked, or better still take off the chain to be sure. Wherever the sound is coming from, just make sure you only operate one bearing at a time. The noise will resonate through the frame to wherever you put your ear, so no need to risk injury from flailing pedals, etc by putting your ear too close to the suspected problem.
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