Discussion
I'm in a (first world) dilemma:
The Di2 JB isn't ugly in itself, having a glorified elastic band round your carbon stem however...
I ordered a K-Edge Di2 mount, completely forgetting the massiveness of my steerer (its a 1 1/4 Giant OD2), so its out.
Has anyone found an elegant solution to mounting it under a stem - there is no weight to it - would something like a command strip or double sided sticky pad thing work - or even go wild with the glue gun? Or is that a recipe to have a junction box through your spokes?
Do I need to make friends with someone who has a 3d printer?
I know the bar end JB is the proper way to do this, but the budget was already blown on a set of tubeless carbon rims, so that's out.
I would jump at a combined stem faceplate Di2/Garmin mount, but noone seems to make one, unless some clever PHer says, yeah, this niche company just need your stem bolt spacing and they will whip you up a neat mount.
The Di2 JB isn't ugly in itself, having a glorified elastic band round your carbon stem however...
I ordered a K-Edge Di2 mount, completely forgetting the massiveness of my steerer (its a 1 1/4 Giant OD2), so its out.
Has anyone found an elegant solution to mounting it under a stem - there is no weight to it - would something like a command strip or double sided sticky pad thing work - or even go wild with the glue gun? Or is that a recipe to have a junction box through your spokes?
Do I need to make friends with someone who has a 3d printer?
I know the bar end JB is the proper way to do this, but the budget was already blown on a set of tubeless carbon rims, so that's out.
I would jump at a combined stem faceplate Di2/Garmin mount, but noone seems to make one, unless some clever PHer says, yeah, this niche company just need your stem bolt spacing and they will whip you up a neat mount.
How about an integrated steerer tube spacer/mount (although wouldn't allow you to 'slam that stem'):
Mixed reviews on Amazon, mainly relating to the angle of the mount, but a heat gun and gentle persuasion would probably allow some fine tuning?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/M-Part-6mm-Spacer-Di2-Jun...
Mixed reviews on Amazon, mainly relating to the angle of the mount, but a heat gun and gentle persuasion would probably allow some fine tuning?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/M-Part-6mm-Spacer-Di2-Jun...
That M part one is similar to the K-Edge design (which is thinner and can be bent easily) - https://www.vanillabikes.com/products/k-edge-mount...
Both suffer from fitting normal sizer steerers though - Giant have seen fit to go with a mahoosive steerer, so nothing normal will fit.
You can see on the link how it mounts - little clip thing.
Unless I can find something elegant, I'm tempted to either stick the JB straight to the underside of the stem (glue gun probably, bit less permanent than epoxy...), or somehow modify the existing Shimano mount and stick that on. Its never going to see a huge load and should never really need to come off.
Both suffer from fitting normal sizer steerers though - Giant have seen fit to go with a mahoosive steerer, so nothing normal will fit.
You can see on the link how it mounts - little clip thing.
Unless I can find something elegant, I'm tempted to either stick the JB straight to the underside of the stem (glue gun probably, bit less permanent than epoxy...), or somehow modify the existing Shimano mount and stick that on. Its never going to see a huge load and should never really need to come off.
I went down the bar end junction box route. Only neat solution I could find.
I see you’ve considered it and have budget issues. I got hold of mine for £58 from Sigma, but you also need to factor in a different ‘y split’ wire which was around £38, which I think is necessary.
Bit more time saving?
I see you’ve considered it and have budget issues. I got hold of mine for £58 from Sigma, but you also need to factor in a different ‘y split’ wire which was around £38, which I think is necessary.
Bit more time saving?
Sticking it in the post would be an idea, but the battery is there and I don't know if I could make it all fit before fouling the rear wheel cutout. Plus I would be buying a while new wiring kit, so may as well just go for the bar end JB and do it properly.
I think I'm going to just go with the sticky pad option - will work without being too ghetto a hack. Like the idea of the KEdge one as its so neat, but it doesn't fit, so meh.
PulsatingStar said:
You can get mounts for OD2 steerers, or some integrated mounts on garmin mounts depending on your bar combos etc.
I just used double sided sticky pads though, been fine for years.
I haven't found any that combine Garmin and Di2 for the aero (non integrated) shape bar though. Plus, I would prefer a stem faceplate mount as they look cleaner than stuff clamped to your bars - I am yet to find the elusive combo though...I just used double sided sticky pads though, been fine for years.
I think I'm going to just go with the sticky pad option - will work without being too ghetto a hack. Like the idea of the KEdge one as its so neat, but it doesn't fit, so meh.
DS240 said:
I went down the bar end junction box route. Only neat solution I could find.
I see you’ve considered it and have budget issues. I got hold of mine for £58 from Sigma, but you also need to factor in a different ‘y split’ wire which was around £38, which I think is necessary.
Bit more time saving?
There are generally enough ports in the shifters to avoid using a y wire, unless you’re using sprint, bartop shifters.I see you’ve considered it and have budget issues. I got hold of mine for £58 from Sigma, but you also need to factor in a different ‘y split’ wire which was around £38, which I think is necessary.
Bit more time saving?
What's the bike?
Because it's a bus system, you can have it anywhere in the system - on my P5 for example - the big junction box is down by the bottom bracket - and I used the tiny junction box up at the stem as I could fit it inside.
I just installed a bar end shifter on my S5 - not a huge fan of the lack of symmetry (they give you a blank for the opposite side) - but it does make it easy to plug in and makes it all very neat.
Because it's a bus system, you can have it anywhere in the system - on my P5 for example - the big junction box is down by the bottom bracket - and I used the tiny junction box up at the stem as I could fit it inside.
I just installed a bar end shifter on my S5 - not a huge fan of the lack of symmetry (they give you a blank for the opposite side) - but it does make it easy to plug in and makes it all very neat.
GOATever said:
eTAP is soooo much tidier
The Etap model was £6500, mine was less than half that with Ultegra. Plus, Red hoods are about as comfortable as being stabbed, whereas Shimano ones are like caressing the face of an angel.
Its a Giant Propel, so it annoys me that everything about the bike is aero and I have a square box under my stem.
Looking last night, I reckon drilling a hole under the stem , or through the bars where they interface with the stem and hiding it inside would be the easiest answer (I am not going to do this)
I think I'll just go with a sticky pad - with a Garmin out front and a -8 stem, the JB will be pretty well hidden from the wind under there and with the weight of the thing, the massive rubber band is a bit overkill.
Edited by Parsnip on Friday 15th February 09:01
Parsnip said:
The Etap model was £6500, mine was less than half that with Ultegra. Plus, Red hoods are about as comfortable as being stabbed, whereas Shimano ones are like caressing the face of an angel.
Its a Giant Propel, so it annoys me that everything about the bike is aero and I have a square box under my stem.
Looking last night, I reckon drilling a hole under the stem , or through the bars where they interface with the stem and hiding it inside would be the easiest answer (I am not going to do this)
I think I'll just go with a sticky pad - with a Garmin out front and a -8 stem, the JB will be pretty well hidden from the wind under there and with the weight of the thing, the massive rubber band is a bit overkill.
Edited by Parsnip on Friday 15th February 09:01
Connectors said:
DS240 said:
I went down the bar end junction box route. Only neat solution I could find.
I see you’ve considered it and have budget issues. I got hold of mine for £58 from Sigma, but you also need to factor in a different ‘y split’ wire which was around £38, which I think is necessary.
Bit more time saving?
There are generally enough ports in the shifters to avoid using a y wire, unless you’re using sprint, bartop shifters.I see you’ve considered it and have budget issues. I got hold of mine for £58 from Sigma, but you also need to factor in a different ‘y split’ wire which was around £38, which I think is necessary.
Bit more time saving?
Got nice new carbon bar and the new Ultegra di2 going on the bike Monday. Fingers crossed electronic is as good as I hope it will be!
No you dont need the Y connector. I have my bar end junction going into the right lever. Right lever going all the way through the bars to the left lever and then that goes out into the frame as normal (note you cant do this on R785 levers they dont have enough ports).
Not all bars can run the bar end junction fully internal though so thats something to bear in mind. You could run it externally and bartape over it but that would bug me. The package does come with a 'fake' wire for the other side if you need to do that though to make them feel the same!
Not all bars can run the bar end junction fully internal though so thats something to bear in mind. You could run it externally and bartape over it but that would bug me. The package does come with a 'fake' wire for the other side if you need to do that though to make them feel the same!
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