10 or 11 speed front road shifter (x2) on 9 speed set up

[zebedee]

Front (left) road shifter (ie the handlebar part, not the mech/derailleur) has broken. 9 speed ones are very limited and bloody expensive. Can I use a 10 or 11 speed one on the basis that it still only changes between 2 positions on the front and there can't be much if any difference between the gap between the chainrings and therefore the cable actuation?

Has anyone done this please?

[gazza285]

You can.

Which type of shifter have you broken? There's usually a selection available on eBay...

[upsidedownmark]

10, yes.
11, different cable pull ratio - you will need to change for an 11 speed mech also.

[NatAsp]

My unused Ultegra one is on Ebay now for a penny no reserve. But if UDM is correct then looks like it's no good to you!

[zebedee]

upsidedownmark said:

10, yes.
11, different cable pull ratio - you will need to change for an 11 speed mech also.

Given the range of adjustment on limit screws and rachet clicks, surely it would bridge the gap on a double set up?

On all front shifters I have used there are a couple of click positions as you move through, not just lower and upper, so it could probably be trimmed to work reasonably well I would have thought, even if the cable pull ratio is slightly different (and it must be very slightly different. For a rear mech, where every indent is critical, I would agree, it would never work, but has anyone done it in practice?

11 speed front mech is likely to cause more problems than it solves, as a 9 speed chain probably won't pass through it.

[Your Dad]

Which shifters/mech do you have/need?

There's a good compatibility listing for Shimano at http://www.celebrazio.net/bicycling/shimano_compat...

[zebedee]

Your Dad said:

Which shifters/mech do you have/need?

There's a good compatibility listing for Shimano at http://www.celebrazio.net/bicycling/shimano_compat...

that website seems to focus on 10-11 speed.

I have a fairly old Ultegra 9 speed front mech (and rest of drivetrain). It is only the front shifter which the rachet is broken on, so I can't change out of the little ring. On the basis a front shifter just pulls cable through to move between one of 2 positions and usually has scope to trim it too, I hope I can use a 10 or 11 speed front shifter without changing anything else, and would use Ultegra or even DuraAce, seeing as I can pick them up for less than the cost of 9 speed Tora or Claris!

[zebedee]

ps - it works. limit screws and cable tension need to be spot on, more so than with the 9 speed shifter, (you cant have any slack) so you need to know what you are doing, but can't wait to tape the bars up again and go enjoy 182g of Dura Ace shifting loveliness.

[upsidedownmark]

zebedee said:

Given the range of adjustment on limit screws and rachet clicks, surely it would bridge the gap on a double set up?

On all front shifters I have used there are a couple of click positions as you move through, not just lower and upper, so it could probably be trimmed to work reasonably well I would have thought, even if the cable pull ratio is slightly different (and it must be very slightly different. For a rear mech, where every indent is critical, I would agree, it would never work, but has anyone done it in practice?

11 speed front mech is likely to cause more problems than it solves, as a 9 speed chain probably won't pass through it.

Late to seeing this. Answer is - I don't know. Depends how different that cable pull ratios are; IIRC the newer stuff pulls more cable, so you might get away with it - remember that limit screws have little bearing on things if it's set up properly and all the indexing comes from the lever. The mid-clicks are trim positions, which you probably want to retain.

As for not fitting through, that's nonsense. There's about 1mm difference between a 9 and an 11 speed chain - there's masses of room, and the difference in the chainline as you shift the rear would have far more bearing. Nothing stopping you running an 11 speed chain either, or a 10 as a compromise. They all have the same inner dimensions (the rollers), just that the pins / outside plates get narrower.

[zebedee]

upsidedownmark said:

Late to seeing this. Answer is - I don't know. Depends how different that cable pull ratios are; IIRC the newer stuff pulls more cable, so you might get away with it - remember that limit screws have little bearing on things if it's set up properly and all the indexing comes from the lever. The mid-clicks are trim positions, which you probably want to retain.

As for not fitting through, that's nonsense. There's about 1mm difference between a 9 and an 11 speed chain - there's masses of room, and the difference in the chainline as you shift the rear would have far more bearing. Nothing stopping you running an 11 speed chain either, or a 10 as a compromise. They all have the same inner dimensions (the rollers), just that the pins / outside plates get narrower.

It does work, I have only changed the shifter, not the mech, so the size of chain, gaps in mech etc are irrelevant. Limit screws are needed to make sure you have all the tension at the start of the cable pull stroke, you can't have any slack, so either the cable pull ratio is less or the cable pull itself is less on an 11 speed. It only just makes it to the large chainring. I guess you could do that without the limit screws set right, but the lower screw in particular is a great way to set the base tension without a great deal of trial and error!

[upsidedownmark]

Well, I'm glad it's working for you Limit screws have nothing to do with cable tension though.. they set the limits of the movement so you don't chuck the chain off either end, and they should be set for that. Cable tension is an entirely separate matter.