New Commuting Bike
Discussion
Hi all,
Long story short, I've got a new job and I now have a 13.5 miles each way via country roads or a canal path to work, but I will need a new bike for it as currently in my stable there is just two MTBs! I also have lost my temper with my Discovery and sold it, so I suppose I should find a new car too but that's a post for another day!
I am wondering what kind of bike is suitable for these distances, I don't have to take the canal path, I think I'd prefer not to. It's usually a bit of town but mainly country roads and a couple of residential ones to my house with no real traffic to speak of.
I am unsure whether to get a hybrid or not or go for a proper roady. I have nothing to carry apart from a small Macbook in my bag as everything else is at work.
My budget is 1000 pounds or ideally less, but I don't know a damn thing about road bikes and what to look for in a bike for commuting longer distance where I can have some fun with it. I used to ride 3mi sometimes on my hardtail but that was across parkland and through a wood!
Apologies for the cluelessness, but I thought some of the more experienced commuters here can help me. Googling things just makes me see nice bikes I want rather than any real understanding.
Thanks for your help
Long story short, I've got a new job and I now have a 13.5 miles each way via country roads or a canal path to work, but I will need a new bike for it as currently in my stable there is just two MTBs! I also have lost my temper with my Discovery and sold it, so I suppose I should find a new car too but that's a post for another day!
I am wondering what kind of bike is suitable for these distances, I don't have to take the canal path, I think I'd prefer not to. It's usually a bit of town but mainly country roads and a couple of residential ones to my house with no real traffic to speak of.
I am unsure whether to get a hybrid or not or go for a proper roady. I have nothing to carry apart from a small Macbook in my bag as everything else is at work.
My budget is 1000 pounds or ideally less, but I don't know a damn thing about road bikes and what to look for in a bike for commuting longer distance where I can have some fun with it. I used to ride 3mi sometimes on my hardtail but that was across parkland and through a wood!
Apologies for the cluelessness, but I thought some of the more experienced commuters here can help me. Googling things just makes me see nice bikes I want rather than any real understanding.
Thanks for your help
I commute on a canyon commuter 6.0 which is above your budget but they have cheaper models. What was important for me was a belt drive and disc brakes with hub dynamo lights and a rack. The canyon commuter has all this with specific geometry for nippy commuting in a setup that's essentially cyclocross worthy. So it's tough and with the belt drive and hub gears has very low maintenance. I love it.
The belt drive is also silent which is kinda cool.
https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/urban/commuter/commut...
PS Edited to add the bike also comes with theft resistant wheel nuts and seat clamp and a bloody awesome carbon seatpost, bell, reflectory bits, internally-routed cables and excellent Schwalbe tyres. Did I mention how much I like this bike?
The belt drive is also silent which is kinda cool.
https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/urban/commuter/commut...
PS Edited to add the bike also comes with theft resistant wheel nuts and seat clamp and a bloody awesome carbon seatpost, bell, reflectory bits, internally-routed cables and excellent Schwalbe tyres. Did I mention how much I like this bike?
Edited by troc on Thursday 22 December 08:41
Good reviews, well thought of by owners - http://www.planetx.co.uk/c/q/bikes/road-bikes/lond...
Can you put skinny slick tyres on one of the MTBs and lock out the front fork?
Add a set of Ergon grips, or similar, and see how you get on.
Having said that for a 2x22km commute I would be looking (long-term at least) for something commuter specific. My absolute requirements for a commuter, in descending order:
-mudguards
-an excellent lock
-dynamo hub and LED lights
-Brooks B-17 or similar
-rear rack and lightweigt panniers
-a bell
-drop bars
-fast rising puncture resistant rubber, at least 28mm wide
-wide gear range
-CX interruptor brake levers
You'll notice that there are plenty of ways to get those requirements on a bike.
You could convert an old steel MTB, it'd do the job fine.
A steel or alu road bike - doesn't have to have rack or 'guard eyelets, there are ways round that.
A hybrid would work.
You could also spend a lot at the start to get something new, but where's the fun in that?
My commuter is a rusty old Focus Crater Lake hybrid that I found (very broken) in a hedge. It's now Hammerited and runs a 2x10 drivetrain. It's heavy but super stable as the wheelbase is long, the steel frame is massively stiff, everything works well, I have done many 1000s of KMs on it in all weathers.
Here it is, minus its dynamo hub:
Add a set of Ergon grips, or similar, and see how you get on.
Having said that for a 2x22km commute I would be looking (long-term at least) for something commuter specific. My absolute requirements for a commuter, in descending order:
-mudguards
-an excellent lock
-dynamo hub and LED lights
-Brooks B-17 or similar
-rear rack and lightweigt panniers
-a bell
-drop bars
-fast rising puncture resistant rubber, at least 28mm wide
-wide gear range
-CX interruptor brake levers
You'll notice that there are plenty of ways to get those requirements on a bike.
You could convert an old steel MTB, it'd do the job fine.
A steel or alu road bike - doesn't have to have rack or 'guard eyelets, there are ways round that.
A hybrid would work.
You could also spend a lot at the start to get something new, but where's the fun in that?
My commuter is a rusty old Focus Crater Lake hybrid that I found (very broken) in a hedge. It's now Hammerited and runs a 2x10 drivetrain. It's heavy but super stable as the wheelbase is long, the steel frame is massively stiff, everything works well, I have done many 1000s of KMs on it in all weathers.
Here it is, minus its dynamo hub:
Edited by Barchettaman on Thursday 22 December 08:42
Barchettaman said:
My absolute requirements for a commuter, in descending order:
-mudguards
-an excellent lock
-dynamo hub and LED lights
-Brooks B-17 saddle
-rear rack and lightweigt panniers
-a bell
-drop bars
-fast rising puncture resistant rubber, at least 28mm wide
-wide gear range
-CX interruptor brake levers
I pretty much agree although saddle choice is subjective, as is the drop bars requirement. I prefer MTB bars on my commuter bikes, specifically old-school narrow ones to fit through gaps and better visibility. Hydraulic disc brakes a must as well.-mudguards
-an excellent lock
-dynamo hub and LED lights
-Brooks B-17 saddle
-rear rack and lightweigt panniers
-a bell
-drop bars
-fast rising puncture resistant rubber, at least 28mm wide
-wide gear range
-CX interruptor brake levers
As to gear-range, I have an 11-speed hub gear (Shimano Alfine) which has an excellent range and is nice and low maintenance, especially paired with the belt drive.
Ive been doing a 10 -15 mile each way commute for 6+ years on a mix of bikes:
2 x Alu Road Bike (great but fragile, comuteing kills parts quick )
Carbon Road Bike (felt less fragile but too scared of ruining frame if you get knocked off - which I was)
Steel Road Bike (great and versatile but very heavy and dead)
Single Speed/Fixie (loved riding single speed, but a daily steep hill killed my knees and i spent too long much time repairing it)
Alu MTB based Hybrid (great bike for commuting)
Carbon Road based hybrid (unlike the above I hated this, the drawbacks of a road bike and hybrid)
Steel 90s MTB (did well until the frame snapped on a pot hole)
My commute is mainly B road/back lanes/gravel track or A road. On the way home I often cut through Swindon, so some urban riding as well
The two points I would say is buy something tough and you enjoy riding, the enjoy bit is just as important, as comuteing can get dull through winter , even more so when the bike is hard work
ATM I am riding a Steel road bike, with tough heavy wheels, tough heavy 32 tyres and a long frame, just like barchetta man above. Its been doing sterling work, but I don't really like riding it!! Its so heavy and draggy, I think the main issue is that the tyres are like cement, but they last well and have had no issues, even though they are very very abused. In the spring I will but some lighter slimmer tyres on.
I loved riding my road bikes, they felt so fast and nimble but the pot holes, road crap and nature of commuting killed parts quick . The Alu hybrid (Kona Dew) was brilliant for comuteing as it was tougher and I could ride down gravel tracks and byways.
But if I had your budget personally I would probably get a Cyclocross bike (ironic the only bike I haven't commuted on) I would try and get something lightweight and nimble and fit some tough 28c tyres and get riding .
Ive tried panniers, but TBH I just find a rucksack quicker, and I often nip in shops so I couldn't leave anything on the bike.
Mudguards are great, but I just use some Zefal clip on ones that can go on any bike
Find a decent shop to sell you the bike, as if you are commuting a lot you will probs be using them lots for servicing!
2 x Alu Road Bike (great but fragile, comuteing kills parts quick )
Carbon Road Bike (felt less fragile but too scared of ruining frame if you get knocked off - which I was)
Steel Road Bike (great and versatile but very heavy and dead)
Single Speed/Fixie (loved riding single speed, but a daily steep hill killed my knees and i spent too long much time repairing it)
Alu MTB based Hybrid (great bike for commuting)
Carbon Road based hybrid (unlike the above I hated this, the drawbacks of a road bike and hybrid)
Steel 90s MTB (did well until the frame snapped on a pot hole)
My commute is mainly B road/back lanes/gravel track or A road. On the way home I often cut through Swindon, so some urban riding as well
The two points I would say is buy something tough and you enjoy riding, the enjoy bit is just as important, as comuteing can get dull through winter , even more so when the bike is hard work
ATM I am riding a Steel road bike, with tough heavy wheels, tough heavy 32 tyres and a long frame, just like barchetta man above. Its been doing sterling work, but I don't really like riding it!! Its so heavy and draggy, I think the main issue is that the tyres are like cement, but they last well and have had no issues, even though they are very very abused. In the spring I will but some lighter slimmer tyres on.
I loved riding my road bikes, they felt so fast and nimble but the pot holes, road crap and nature of commuting killed parts quick . The Alu hybrid (Kona Dew) was brilliant for comuteing as it was tougher and I could ride down gravel tracks and byways.
But if I had your budget personally I would probably get a Cyclocross bike (ironic the only bike I haven't commuted on) I would try and get something lightweight and nimble and fit some tough 28c tyres and get riding .
Ive tried panniers, but TBH I just find a rucksack quicker, and I often nip in shops so I couldn't leave anything on the bike.
Mudguards are great, but I just use some Zefal clip on ones that can go on any bike
Find a decent shop to sell you the bike, as if you are commuting a lot you will probs be using them lots for servicing!
I would get something super cheap, but I am a bit of a skinflint these days which doesn't seem to be a very PH way to be!
I bought a carbon colnago road bike in april and killed it in a crash with a car on the commute in September which is a bit of a shame. Work being 30 miles from home I was only doing it a couple of times a week on nice days as a treat to myself.
I decided recently to try out winter commuting, mostly to escape the grim Southern Rail experience but only doing it part way (18km each way) and getting the train the rest of the way. Needing to keep the bike in Croydon over night, I went as cheap as possible and bought a Kona Dew on gumtree for £56. See thread http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I've spent another hundred at least on tyres, cassette, chain, locks, lights etc. but I have something now which rolls nicely and the 400km I've done on it so far have been enjoyable.
There are things I'd maybe do differently if I did it again and may adjust as time goes on, but having not spent anything I'd notice on it I have the freedom to do it.
- I think I'd rather have drop bars, I sometimes find even on my 10mile ride my hands fatigue a bit and I'd like to be able stretch out and vary my grip and reach. It's a bit of an annoying change because the shifters/brake levers are integrated. I don't suppose a pair of 8sp tripple road shifters will be that much and I have some bars lying around.
- I'm using a rucsac which I detest. I don't like the weight hanging around and it gives me a sweaty back. Equally I do not want to be carrying panniers around on train. I have a lightweight rack and some ortleibs on the shelf from when I cycled to le mans, but seems a shame to waste them on the commute... so I've asked santa for a cheap rack and a basket to put on the back. Not cool, I know, but may make the bike even less attractive to thieves and I can shove my rucsac in it and bungee it down I reckon.
My long winded point is, that rather than blowing loads of cash in one go now, why not 'prototype' your commute maybe using something you have but with new tyres, after a month or so you'll likely have a much better idea of what you want to be buying or how you might refine what you have. Also, you may want a nice day/bad day option/different machine for the summer?
I bought a carbon colnago road bike in april and killed it in a crash with a car on the commute in September which is a bit of a shame. Work being 30 miles from home I was only doing it a couple of times a week on nice days as a treat to myself.
I decided recently to try out winter commuting, mostly to escape the grim Southern Rail experience but only doing it part way (18km each way) and getting the train the rest of the way. Needing to keep the bike in Croydon over night, I went as cheap as possible and bought a Kona Dew on gumtree for £56. See thread http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...
I've spent another hundred at least on tyres, cassette, chain, locks, lights etc. but I have something now which rolls nicely and the 400km I've done on it so far have been enjoyable.
There are things I'd maybe do differently if I did it again and may adjust as time goes on, but having not spent anything I'd notice on it I have the freedom to do it.
- I think I'd rather have drop bars, I sometimes find even on my 10mile ride my hands fatigue a bit and I'd like to be able stretch out and vary my grip and reach. It's a bit of an annoying change because the shifters/brake levers are integrated. I don't suppose a pair of 8sp tripple road shifters will be that much and I have some bars lying around.
- I'm using a rucsac which I detest. I don't like the weight hanging around and it gives me a sweaty back. Equally I do not want to be carrying panniers around on train. I have a lightweight rack and some ortleibs on the shelf from when I cycled to le mans, but seems a shame to waste them on the commute... so I've asked santa for a cheap rack and a basket to put on the back. Not cool, I know, but may make the bike even less attractive to thieves and I can shove my rucsac in it and bungee it down I reckon.
My long winded point is, that rather than blowing loads of cash in one go now, why not 'prototype' your commute maybe using something you have but with new tyres, after a month or so you'll likely have a much better idea of what you want to be buying or how you might refine what you have. Also, you may want a nice day/bad day option/different machine for the summer?
I had a similar situation in October. My commute is 13 miles, a mix of country roads and bridleways. My budget was also £1,000 and I needed hydraulic discs for a certain sketchy downhill section with an unsighted crossroads halfway down.
I chose a cyclocross bike, and it's perfect.
My shortlist was:
- Boardman CX Team (no proper mudguard mounts but otherwise spot on and very light for the price)
- Pinnacle Arkose (looked good on paper but no test ride available)
- Eastway (nice but no test ride available)
- Cube Cross Race Pro
I got the Cube, which has been excellent so far, dealing with the offroad sections very well and it's loads faster then the mountain bike on the road. It's a 2016 model so was well discounted. The 2017 model won't be discounted much yet, but shop around.
I chose a cyclocross bike, and it's perfect.
My shortlist was:
- Boardman CX Team (no proper mudguard mounts but otherwise spot on and very light for the price)
- Pinnacle Arkose (looked good on paper but no test ride available)
- Eastway (nice but no test ride available)
- Cube Cross Race Pro
I got the Cube, which has been excellent so far, dealing with the offroad sections very well and it's loads faster then the mountain bike on the road. It's a 2016 model so was well discounted. The 2017 model won't be discounted much yet, but shop around.
Edited by Jacobyte on Thursday 22 December 12:16
idiotgap said:
- I think I'd rather have drop bars, I sometimes find even on my 10mile ride my hands fatigue a bit and I'd like to be able stretch out and vary my grip and reach. It's a bit of an annoying change because the shifters/brake levers are integrated. I don't suppose a pair of 8sp tripple road shifters will be that much and I have some bars lying around.
Just to answer this point. I too have a Kona Dew for commuting and it was hurting my hands and wrists until I put a pair of Ergon bar ends on. They let you move your hands around and I've not had a problem since.My commute is 13 miles each way on towpath, cycle path, road and mud puddle infested National Cycle route.
Ended up with a Trek Crockett cyclocross bike on 35mm tyres. It seems to be holding up really well so far.
The only problem I have is toe/front wheel/front mudguard clash, but this is due to being on a small frame and I get the problem with a lot of bikes to one extent or another.
Went for that type of bike for nice wide deep tread tyres, mudguards, light weight and hydraulic discs for bombing down wet, mud soaked cycle routes without having to worry about having any brakes at the next junction.
Ended up with a Trek Crockett cyclocross bike on 35mm tyres. It seems to be holding up really well so far.
The only problem I have is toe/front wheel/front mudguard clash, but this is due to being on a small frame and I get the problem with a lot of bikes to one extent or another.
Went for that type of bike for nice wide deep tread tyres, mudguards, light weight and hydraulic discs for bombing down wet, mud soaked cycle routes without having to worry about having any brakes at the next junction.
Croix de fer.
http://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/blog/03/09/10/vin-co...
It was good enough for Vin Cox to set a world record on, works fine on my commute - similar distance on the short route. Will take panniers, I quite happily run mudguards on 35c. Solid, more of a super middleweight. Soaks up bumps, good allroader can mix it on road, pathways, light off road.
https://www.biketart.com/bikes-c1/road-bikes-c35/g...
http://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/blog/03/09/10/vin-co...
It was good enough for Vin Cox to set a world record on, works fine on my commute - similar distance on the short route. Will take panniers, I quite happily run mudguards on 35c. Solid, more of a super middleweight. Soaks up bumps, good allroader can mix it on road, pathways, light off road.
https://www.biketart.com/bikes-c1/road-bikes-c35/g...
Moaningroadie said:
Good reviews, well thought of by owners - http://www.planetx.co.uk/c/q/bikes/road-bikes/lond...
This is a good shoutThe range is pretty wide - I would suggest one with hydraulic discs over cable as maintenance is so much easier
My own urban weapon of choice is a Specialized Diverge
Its more expensive in a like for like comparison but was available on bike 2 work which helped the man maths whereas the London Road was denied
My own commute essentials are:
bigger tyres
proper mudguards
disc brakes - which go hand in hand with the above two options
pannier racks
robust but not stupidly heavy
road style drop bars - so much more flexibility and comfort
Im very happy with my ride to work discounted Diverge
If I was paying full price Id be equally happy with the London Road which a few of my club mates have
And buy a BFO lock for when you leave it at work
Cheers
troc said:
I commute on a canyon commuter 6.0 which is above your budget but they have cheaper models. What was important for me was a belt drive and disc brakes with hub dynamo lights and a rack. The canyon commuter has all this with specific geometry for nippy commuting in a setup that's essentially cyclocross worthy. So it's tough and with the belt drive and hub gears has very low maintenance. I love it.
The belt drive is also silent which is kinda cool.
https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/urban/commuter/commut...
PS Edited to add the bike also comes with theft resistant wheel nuts and seat clamp and a bloody awesome carbon seatpost, bell, reflectory bits, internally-routed cables and excellent Schwalbe tyres. Did I mention how much I like this bike?
That's a fine looking bike !The belt drive is also silent which is kinda cool.
https://www.canyon.com/en-gb/urban/commuter/commut...
PS Edited to add the bike also comes with theft resistant wheel nuts and seat clamp and a bloody awesome carbon seatpost, bell, reflectory bits, internally-routed cables and excellent Schwalbe tyres. Did I mention how much I like this bike?
Edited by troc on Thursday 22 December 08:41
Leftfield supplier, but much to like: https://www.alpkit.com/sonder/bikes/sonder-camino-...
As others have suggested, gives you the opportunity to go canal or road at your whim
As others have suggested, gives you the opportunity to go canal or road at your whim
Edited by Bonefish Blues on Monday 26th December 09:41
Brilliant replies all, thanks for the answers, they've been really helpful! I am looking at Cyclocross types at the moment or I'm going to go MacGyver an older bike, if I can't get on with the older bike I'll get some less knobbly tyres on my hardtail.
Now I need some lights. Any recommendations for country roads at night? I have heard good things about Knog lights, or would I be OK with some eBay special cheap ones? I am thinking also of buying lights for the helmet or anything to make me more visible from the back.
Now I need some lights. Any recommendations for country roads at night? I have heard good things about Knog lights, or would I be OK with some eBay special cheap ones? I am thinking also of buying lights for the helmet or anything to make me more visible from the back.
Draconic said:
Brilliant replies all, thanks for the answers, they've been really helpful! I am looking at Cyclocross types at the moment or I'm going to go MacGyver an older bike, if I can't get on with the older bike I'll get some less knobbly tyres on my hardtail.
Now I need some lights. Any recommendations for country roads at night? I have heard good things about Knog lights, or would I be OK with some eBay special cheap ones? I am thinking also of buying lights for the helmet or anything to make me more visible from the back.
I've got a cheap ebay light. Had it 3 years so far without any problems. Cost me £20 and lights up the road as well as my car headlights.Now I need some lights. Any recommendations for country roads at night? I have heard good things about Knog lights, or would I be OK with some eBay special cheap ones? I am thinking also of buying lights for the helmet or anything to make me more visible from the back.
Bike wise, if you're staying on tarmac go for a road bike all the way. If you are going to use gravel/dirt paths as well then get a Hybrid. I started off with a Hybrid (a £280 Halfords Carrera Subway) and it did me well for about 1200 miles. I replaced it with a roadbike which is a lot quicker but the hybrid still feels more stable when the surface is less than perfect or there is frost/mud on the roads. Also whatever you get try to get one with disc brakes. If you're used to a mountain bike with discs road bike rim brakes will feel s
t, because they are. I did loads of research and went for a Whyte Suffolk about 15 months ago. It's been perfect for the job: it's got TRP hy/rd disc brakes that are amazing in all conditions, loads of clearance for tyres and guards and is comfortable to ride. It's also sporty enough to use as a winter training bike as I've done recently. My commute is a hilly 8 miles (1000 feet climbing) each way over terrible roads.
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