Im an idiot - removal of FSA cranks
Im an idiot - removal of FSA cranks
Author
Discussion

daddy cool

Original Poster:

4,106 posts

258 months

Wednesday 6th May 2015
quotequote all
So im replacing the cranks on my Boardman Pro Carbon hardtail - they are FSA Comet BB30 cranks.
On the non-drive side there is one 10mm hex bolt:

It turns one way, and when its off im left with:

Im used to shimano external BB's, but ive removed an FSA crank a few years back that had a self-extracting bolt - but this doesn't seem like one as it only turns one way.
Does the non-drive crank arm just come off now (with encouragement from a rubber mallet), or do I need a special tool, or am I doing something wrong?
Help - I have shiny carbon bits to go on!

Wilmslowboy

4,762 posts

235 months

Wednesday 6th May 2015
quotequote all
Looks like you are missing a bit - the self extracting bit

This is what mine looks like, turn one way and the whole arm loosens then self extract





This is what you need...

http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/391/230_5004/...

Moaningroadie

264 posts

221 months

daddy cool

Original Poster:

4,106 posts

258 months

Wednesday 6th May 2015
quotequote all
Wilmslowboy said:
Looks like you are missing a bit - the self extracting bit
This is what mine looks like, turn one way and the whole arm loosens then self extract
Yep, that's what the new crank looks like - it has the self-extracting bit - god knows why my current crank just has a standard bolt that doesn't allow you to remove the cranks?!

Wilmslowboy

4,762 posts

235 months

Wednesday 6th May 2015
quotequote all
daddy cool said:
Yep, that's what the new crank looks like - it has the self-extracting bit - god knows why my current crank just has a standard bolt that doesn't allow you to remove the cranks?!
Ok then just take the collar of the new crank - pop it on the old crank, and extract - job jobbed !!!



The reason the current crank has a std bolt...is because the nice guys at the bike shop nicked the collar bit ....or perhaps the collar fell off....

Wilmslowboy

4,762 posts

235 months

Wednesday 6th May 2015
quotequote all
This is what mine looks like with the collar off (the self extracting bit)


daddy cool

Original Poster:

4,106 posts

258 months

Wednesday 6th May 2015
quotequote all
Wilmslowboy said:
This is what mine looks like with the collar off (the self extracting bit)

Ah I see - yes it does look like the collar has gone walkabouts...
How do I get the collar off the new crank though? Its on there flush. Do you need a special tool with 6 prongs that match up with the holes?

I can see me dropping everything off at the LBS! hehe

daddy cool

Original Poster:

4,106 posts

258 months

Wednesday 6th May 2015
quotequote all
Ah, looks like you need something like this?
http://www.parktool.com/uploads/images/blog/repair...

S13_Alan

1,392 posts

272 months

Wednesday 6th May 2015
quotequote all
Or two drill bits the same size as the holes and a screwdriver....

Wilmslowboy

4,762 posts

235 months

Wednesday 6th May 2015
quotequote all
I use two forks, just need to get a couple of prongs in a hole on each side.....bit of a bodge but it works .....biggrin

Should not be too tight, the collar doesn't hold the crank on, the bolt does that, the collar only needs to be tight enough for the bolt to push against it when extracting.


daddy cool

Original Poster:

4,106 posts

258 months

Wednesday 6th May 2015
quotequote all
Wilmslowboy said:
I use two forks, just need to get a couple of prongs in a hole on each side.....bit of a bodge but it works .....biggrin

Should not be too tight, the collar doesn't hold the crank on, the bolt does that, the collar only needs to be tight enough for the bolt to push against it when extracting.
Ok... sounds like a plan - just a bit worried about scratching my lovely new carbon cranks that I still haven't fully justified to myself for buying...
Does the collar unscrew clockwise or anti-clockwise?

Wilmslowboy

4,762 posts

235 months

Wednesday 6th May 2015
quotequote all
Unscrews the opposite to the arrow marked on it :-)

If you are worried about you clumsy use of forks...bit of tape will mask the carbon off

daddy cool

Original Poster:

4,106 posts

258 months

Wednesday 6th May 2015
quotequote all
Right, im going to have a cuppa and some biscuits and decide on a course of action! biggrin
Thanks a lot for all the help/advice!

Edit: its on there rock-solid - LBS it is then!

Edited by daddy cool on Wednesday 6th May 22:33

upsidedownmark

2,120 posts

164 months

Wednesday 6th May 2015
quotequote all
I'd try belting the NDS crank with a rubber mallet (or a block of wood) first. Or just wriggling it. Shouldn't *need* the self extracting bit, pretty sure they're not actually on a taper.

deadtom

2,769 posts

194 months

Friday 8th May 2015
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upsidedownmark said:
I'd try belting the NDS crank with a rubber mallet (or a block of wood) first. Or just wriggling it. Shouldn't *need* the self extracting bit, pretty sure they're not actually on a taper.
they are on a taper, and you do need* an extractor (be it self extracting bolt, or a crank extractor tool).

  • yes you could use a hammer and just batter it, but this is not recommended

daddy cool

Original Poster:

4,106 posts

258 months

Saturday 9th May 2015
quotequote all
Well, I took it my local LBS - based on recommendation I went to Sam's bikes, between Bracknell & Maidenhead.
http://www.samsbikeshop.co.uk/
He's was too busy at the moment to have the bike in to do the whole job (inc bearings) but kindly hunted around for a spare "collar" and then removed my NDS crank arm (free of charge).
Took the bike home and swapped the bits over, leaving the existing BB30 bearings as they are running smooth.
Quick test ride in the road seems fine - hope for an extended Swinley ride tomorrow afternoon.
But they look sexy and have made a decent contribution for my sub-10kg target!

Herman Toothrot

6,702 posts

227 months

Saturday 9th May 2015
quotequote all
Looking good!