Headset Advice (I've been at the allam keys)
Discussion
The bit about adjustment is right at the bottom but have a read of the rest of it to learn about the various components in a threadless headset.
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threadles...
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threadles...
Once you are familiar with all the parts and assembly procedure, if you want to get more life out of it aside from cleaning it and regreasing you may consider swapping the bearing cups which are in the top and bottom of the headtube. These cups are usually the same (do check carefully) and the lower one will be more worn than the upper, as it takes more of a pounding and also get the road dirt.
When you tighten that bolt in the headset, the top cap pushes down onto the headtube and pulls against a star bolt wedged in the fork steerer tube to ensure its all tight. Carbon forks have an alloy sleeve to ensure the star nut doesnt dig into the carbon. In this picture the nut was not gripping the steerer tube and pulled up too far. You can tap the star nut back down into the steerer tube easily enough, just dont tap it down too far.... like I did, then you have two start nuts in the steerer tube....

Effectively you are pulling the bottom of the forks up and compressing it all a bit by tightening that top bolt, if you tighten it too much you will knacker the bearings and but too much stress through the head tube, you can get hex keys which are set to click at 5Nm, I think Ritchey do them, for carbon bits they are essential.
Effectively you are pulling the bottom of the forks up and compressing it all a bit by tightening that top bolt, if you tighten it too much you will knacker the bearings and but too much stress through the head tube, you can get hex keys which are set to click at 5Nm, I think Ritchey do them, for carbon bits they are essential.
Edited by anonymous-user on Friday 6th March 15:30
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