Mavic R-Sys SLR Wheels
Discussion
If you're expecting measurable gains (average speeds, Strava segment times) above your existing Quattro's you are likely to be disappointed. I've ridden various wheelsets and I've concluded at my level (regular club cyclist) that the most important areas to differentiate between wheelsets are the 'feel' and the 'look'.
Light wheels will feel nice and snappy on hills and when accelerating, but shaving 100-200 g from your wheels will not suddenly add 1 mph onto your average speed or knock 10 seconds of a 1 minute climb. A deeper, but slightly heavier, wheelset might feel a tad less lively in comparison, but you'll struggle to measure an tangible difference in average speed or climbing speed.
Light wheels will feel nice and snappy on hills and when accelerating, but shaving 100-200 g from your wheels will not suddenly add 1 mph onto your average speed or knock 10 seconds of a 1 minute climb. A deeper, but slightly heavier, wheelset might feel a tad less lively in comparison, but you'll struggle to measure an tangible difference in average speed or climbing speed.
anonymous said:
[redacted]
Spokes can be expensive and hard to find. I would go for some 50mm wheels, most of your rides are pretty flat so you'll see benefit from the aero factor while giving away almost nothing up the hills. However I would say as above, they don't make as much difference as they should for the money. Ironically an aero helmet will probably save you more watts than any wheelset and better kit, I.e properly race fit and an aero helmet would be better likely than a whole new bike that was aero and Enve wheels.
okgo said:
Spokes can be expensive and hard to find.
I would go for some 50mm wheels, most of your rides are pretty flat so you'll see benefit from the aero factor while giving away almost nothing up the hills. However I would say as above, they don't make as much difference as they should for the money. Ironically an aero helmet will probably save you more watts than any wheelset and better kit, I.e properly race fit and an aero helmet would be better likely than a whole new bike that was aero and Enve wheels.
Aero helmets or racey positions don't carry the same coffee shop kudos, however.I would go for some 50mm wheels, most of your rides are pretty flat so you'll see benefit from the aero factor while giving away almost nothing up the hills. However I would say as above, they don't make as much difference as they should for the money. Ironically an aero helmet will probably save you more watts than any wheelset and better kit, I.e properly race fit and an aero helmet would be better likely than a whole new bike that was aero and Enve wheels.
I've had 808's, 404 FC's and am currently running Stinger 4's on the race bike, of them all the 808's sounded best, there's not much between the 404 FC and the Stinger 4 but the HED has nicer hubs/better lacing.
There is a genuine difference between "proper" aero wheels and stuff like the R-Sys, which given the section of the spokes probably qualify as "improper" aero wheels.
You get that tail-wind feeling above 20mph, and it gets better the faster you go.
= if you want to go fast, go deep, and go with a rim design that has spent time in the wind tunnel.
I'd get some Flo30 for training on/raining and some second hand Stinger 6's (or deeper) if you are racing in flat country, 4's if you are heading for hills/mountains.
There is a genuine difference between "proper" aero wheels and stuff like the R-Sys, which given the section of the spokes probably qualify as "improper" aero wheels.
You get that tail-wind feeling above 20mph, and it gets better the faster you go.
= if you want to go fast, go deep, and go with a rim design that has spent time in the wind tunnel.
I'd get some Flo30 for training on/raining and some second hand Stinger 6's (or deeper) if you are racing in flat country, 4's if you are heading for hills/mountains.
If you're looking at the R-SYS I'd go for the new Fulcrum Zero Nites or the Campag equivalent : http://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/campagnolo-sham...
Not quite as light but a fair bit cheaper, probably more reliable and they also have no horrible shiny aluminium brake track
Otherwise the Aero 38 from Wheelsmith?
Not quite as light but a fair bit cheaper, probably more reliable and they also have no horrible shiny aluminium brake track
Otherwise the Aero 38 from Wheelsmith?
For an all round solid wheelset off the peg there are loads of deals on Fulcrum Zeros at the mo, they're light and bullet proof. If it were my money I'd stick £6-700 that way and get a set of 40mm cheap carbon clinchers. I have a set of deep Zipp's and have borrowed some Chinese wheels, there is not as much difference as people would have you believe. They are all crap(ish) in the wet and they all flex to some degree. (404's, 808's and Chinese do with me anyway)
yonex said:
For an all round solid wheelset off the peg there are loads of deals on Fulcrum Zeros at the mo, they're light and bullet proof. If it were my money I'd stick £6-700 that way and get a set of 40mm cheap carbon clinchers. I have a set of deep Zipp's and have borrowed some Chinese wheels, there is not as much difference as people would have you believe. They are all crap(ish) in the wet and they all flex to some degree. (404's, 808's and Chinese do with me anyway)
Aluminium brake track - it's worth it to be able to stop.I have some full carbon 50mm tubs and a set of Dura Ace 7850 50mm clinchers. The Dura Ace wheels are sublime. Ally brake track stops, the extra oomph on the flat or downhill from the deep section profile is noticeable and the all up 1590g weight means they are hardly heavyweights.
I cant see myself swapping those out for anything in the short term.
I have R-sys wheelset. they are great wheels. With the exalith surface braking is superb. I'm a chunky rider at 85-90KGS and I have not found an issue with flex at all. They have 1 small characteristic, they are quite slow wheels once you get around the 22+mph. the spokes being round aren't very aero and you do notice it. I have noticed that at high speeds 35+mph sometimes you can feel a high frequency vibration which I think is the air buffeting around.
it's not an issue, just a characteristic.
it's not an issue, just a characteristic.
TheLemming said:
Aluminium brake track - it's worth it to be able to stop.
I have some full carbon 50mm tubs and a set of Dura Ace 7850 50mm clinchers. The Dura Ace wheels are sublime. Ally brake track stops, the extra oomph on the flat or downhill from the deep section profile is noticeable and the all up 1590g weight means they are hardly heavyweights.
I cant see myself swapping those out for anything in the short term.
I sold my 7850 C50s just before my fall, lovely lovely wheels. I have some full carbon 50mm tubs and a set of Dura Ace 7850 50mm clinchers. The Dura Ace wheels are sublime. Ally brake track stops, the extra oomph on the flat or downhill from the deep section profile is noticeable and the all up 1590g weight means they are hardly heavyweights.
I cant see myself swapping those out for anything in the short term.
If they were C35s I would've kept them but with a little'un my free time this year would be limited for time trialling etc and so the plan was to get some hand built all rounders.
Then I broke my hip!
Matt_N said:
TheLemming said:
Aluminium brake track - it's worth it to be able to stop.
I have some full carbon 50mm tubs and a set of Dura Ace 7850 50mm clinchers. The Dura Ace wheels are sublime. Ally brake track stops, the extra oomph on the flat or downhill from the deep section profile is noticeable and the all up 1590g weight means they are hardly heavyweights.
I cant see myself swapping those out for anything in the short term.
I sold my 7850 C50s just before my fall, lovely lovely wheels. I have some full carbon 50mm tubs and a set of Dura Ace 7850 50mm clinchers. The Dura Ace wheels are sublime. Ally brake track stops, the extra oomph on the flat or downhill from the deep section profile is noticeable and the all up 1590g weight means they are hardly heavyweights.
I cant see myself swapping those out for anything in the short term.
If they were C35s I would've kept them but with a little'un my free time this year would be limited for time trialling etc and so the plan was to get some hand built all rounders.
Then I broke my hip!
But at least the wheels were ok, having been sent off somewhere safe?
TheLemming said:
Aluminium brake track - it's worth it to be able to stop.
I have some full carbon 50mm tubs and a set of Dura Ace 7850 50mm clinchers. The Dura Ace wheels are sublime. Ally brake track stops, the extra oomph on the flat or downhill from the deep section profile is noticeable and the all up 1590g weight means they are hardly heavyweights.
I cant see myself swapping those out for anything in the short term.
I don't think Aluminium braking surfaces are all that important as you can still instantly lock a wheel with a carbon braking surface in the rain.I have some full carbon 50mm tubs and a set of Dura Ace 7850 50mm clinchers. The Dura Ace wheels are sublime. Ally brake track stops, the extra oomph on the flat or downhill from the deep section profile is noticeable and the all up 1590g weight means they are hardly heavyweights.
I cant see myself swapping those out for anything in the short term.
Though Shimano Dura Ace C24's are lovely and pretty sure the Shimano 11 speed spacing is the same as 11 speed campag now and alot cheaper than the Mavics
fromage said:
TheLemming said:
Aluminium brake track - it's worth it to be able to stop.
I have some full carbon 50mm tubs and a set of Dura Ace 7850 50mm clinchers. The Dura Ace wheels are sublime. Ally brake track stops, the extra oomph on the flat or downhill from the deep section profile is noticeable and the all up 1590g weight means they are hardly heavyweights.
I cant see myself swapping those out for anything in the short term.
I don't think Aluminium braking surfaces are all that important as you can still instantly lock a wheel with a carbon braking surface in the rain.I have some full carbon 50mm tubs and a set of Dura Ace 7850 50mm clinchers. The Dura Ace wheels are sublime. Ally brake track stops, the extra oomph on the flat or downhill from the deep section profile is noticeable and the all up 1590g weight means they are hardly heavyweights.
I cant see myself swapping those out for anything in the short term.
Though Shimano Dura Ace C24's are lovely and pretty sure the Shimano 11 speed spacing is the same as 11 speed campag now and alot cheaper than the Mavics
What I found was that braking was poor. You can lock it up (after a revolution of the wheel to clear the brake track, I haven't found it to be instant) but there are very few situations where you'd want to do that.
Modulation is whats missing, there's very little between "no braking" and "locked up".
Perhaps there's a LOT more user skill needed to use full carbon brake tracks in the wet than aluminium. Maybe there's a knack to it - but I haven't acquired it.
I know what you mean with carbon braking in the wet. My theory and it's only a theory is the heat. Let me explain,
Wet braking surface means no braking so you add more pressure, then the water clears the temp of the blocks flare up and the friction ramps up and wham, you've locked up. You almost have to second guess them, which isn't helpfull.
Ali rims remain at a more consistant temp.
Just my theory.
I rode some zipp 202's in the Alps last year and I was really pleased with how they performed brake wise, it was dry the whole time. I must admit to not wanting to use them if it was wet on an alpine descent.
Wet braking surface means no braking so you add more pressure, then the water clears the temp of the blocks flare up and the friction ramps up and wham, you've locked up. You almost have to second guess them, which isn't helpfull.
Ali rims remain at a more consistant temp.
Just my theory.
I rode some zipp 202's in the Alps last year and I was really pleased with how they performed brake wise, it was dry the whole time. I must admit to not wanting to use them if it was wet on an alpine descent.
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