road bike question re fit.
Discussion
They're shouldn't really be a pressure point as such, but if you mean the area that you feel is driving down on the pedals then take a look at this which I posted in another topic.
It should help you ensure you get the other aspects correct too if you've not riden in a while.
As a basic rule the pedal axle should transact your shoes inbetween the first joint of you big and little toe when you have you cranks forward at 90d.
This picture illustrates that:
I personally have mine set back a little from this as I like to feel that I am pedalling on the ball of my foot rather than my toes, but I'd start neutral as above.
Now you need to find your saddle height, there are many ways to do this, one of the most common is the 109% method. Take your inside leg measurement and times it by 109%, this will give you the centre of the bb to top of the saddle height.
Next you need to set your saddles fore and aft position. Again the basic rule is that with your foot clipped in and with your crank forward and at 90d the small bone at the lower outside of your knee joint should be directly above the pedal axle. You'll need a friend or wife to hold a plumb line from your knee with you either balancing or on a turbo to hold the required position!
Picture:
You then need to go for a ride and work out if you need to lengthen or shorten your stem to get a decent reach and riding position to stop you slipping off the saddle.
You may also want to tweak saddle position, making sure to re-check everything esle as you go.
The above methods can be refined based on specific bike fitter's preference, Steve Hogg is a good place to start.
It should help you ensure you get the other aspects correct too if you've not riden in a while.
As a basic rule the pedal axle should transact your shoes inbetween the first joint of you big and little toe when you have you cranks forward at 90d.
This picture illustrates that:
I personally have mine set back a little from this as I like to feel that I am pedalling on the ball of my foot rather than my toes, but I'd start neutral as above.
Now you need to find your saddle height, there are many ways to do this, one of the most common is the 109% method. Take your inside leg measurement and times it by 109%, this will give you the centre of the bb to top of the saddle height.
Next you need to set your saddles fore and aft position. Again the basic rule is that with your foot clipped in and with your crank forward and at 90d the small bone at the lower outside of your knee joint should be directly above the pedal axle. You'll need a friend or wife to hold a plumb line from your knee with you either balancing or on a turbo to hold the required position!
Picture:
You then need to go for a ride and work out if you need to lengthen or shorten your stem to get a decent reach and riding position to stop you slipping off the saddle.
You may also want to tweak saddle position, making sure to re-check everything esle as you go.
The above methods can be refined based on specific bike fitter's preference, Steve Hogg is a good place to start.
The best place to start for fit advice is the Italian CONI book (The "Cycling Bible"). Andy Pruitt is also good, and largely adheres to the CONI method.
You should pedal approx. on the ball of the foot. Saddle height is set by heel-on-pedal method (leg straight or slightly bent in this position, and the standard measure for fore/aft is between 3-6 cm behind the bottom bracket -- low end for small frames, high for large. If you have unusual proportions (foot size, femur length, etc), modify in small increments as needed. I would avoid any formulas based off or similar to Hinualt/Lemond/Genzling theory (inseam X .883, .65, .67, 1.09), which sadly continues to infest modern bike fit.
You should pedal approx. on the ball of the foot. Saddle height is set by heel-on-pedal method (leg straight or slightly bent in this position, and the standard measure for fore/aft is between 3-6 cm behind the bottom bracket -- low end for small frames, high for large. If you have unusual proportions (foot size, femur length, etc), modify in small increments as needed. I would avoid any formulas based off or similar to Hinualt/Lemond/Genzling theory (inseam X .883, .65, .67, 1.09), which sadly continues to infest modern bike fit.
Thanks, I will look at these sources and make some changes. I noticed today a slight dull ache on my egg knee at the front and on top, so something is not quite right ath the moment.
Loving the bike though, I can't believe the difference between it and the hybrid. I can't think why I dis not do this last year!
Loving the bike though, I can't believe the difference between it and the hybrid. I can't think why I dis not do this last year!
drivin_me_nuts said:
Thanks, I will look at these sources and make some changes. I noticed today a slight dull ache on my egg knee at the front and on top, so something is not quite right ath the moment.
Loving the bike though, I can't believe the difference between it and the hybrid. I can't think why I dis not do this last year!
Saddle needs to go up and possible back a bit. Loving the bike though, I can't believe the difference between it and the hybrid. I can't think why I dis not do this last year!
Start by putting it up by say 5mm and see how you go.
Thanks, I will look at these sources and make some changes. I noticed today a slight dull ache on my egg knee at the front and on top, so something is not quite right ath the moment.
Loving the bike though, I can't believe the difference between it and the hybrid. I can't think why I dis not do this last year!
Loving the bike though, I can't believe the difference between it and the hybrid. I can't think why I dis not do this last year!
Right, I made a few changes last night and it seems to have made a difference. Saddle pushed back a bit and lowered at the front slightly and cleats pushed backwards until they sit under the first joint of the toes and my snort ten mile ride was pain free. Now it's all about muscles and stamina. This is going to be fun.
Funny thing is, I can Stoll see me riding the hybrid for strength, but it does seem to target muscle groups differently. Thanks for your help, it really is tiny movements that make all the difference.
Funny thing is, I can Stoll see me riding the hybrid for strength, but it does seem to target muscle groups differently. Thanks for your help, it really is tiny movements that make all the difference.
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