Shoulder pain reach problem
Discussion
Had my first long ride (for me) today and within 6 or 8mls of the ride my shoulders, particularly my right shoulder was really aching ??
I stopped riding about 18mths ago but never had a problem then.So Im just starting again on a used bike .Its a 57cm and I am 6 foot with about a 34inch inside leg.I decided to alter the seat height then rotate the bars upwards and move the seat forward.Following a 10 or 12ml ride I didnt notice any shoulder pain but look at the angle of the drops now?

I stopped riding about 18mths ago but never had a problem then.So Im just starting again on a used bike .Its a 57cm and I am 6 foot with about a 34inch inside leg.I decided to alter the seat height then rotate the bars upwards and move the seat forward.Following a 10 or 12ml ride I didnt notice any shoulder pain but look at the angle of the drops now?

I fractured my shoulder bone today when I tripped up in the garden, will be in a sling for six weeks....I'll tell you what pain is......
Seriously, I suspect it's because you have been off the bike for quite a while..Why not build up slowly doing shorter runs, to get back into it?
Good luck...

Seriously, I suspect it's because you have been off the bike for quite a while..Why not build up slowly doing shorter runs, to get back into it?
Good luck...
This sounds like a core strength issue- and whilst intuitively moving the saddle forward seems to be the thing to do you should actually move it backward.
Next time you are going downhill stand up on the pedals- you'll notice that you balance on the pedals with no weigh on your hands, and your bottom will be behind the saddle.
Your upper body is cantilevered forward from your hips, held in place by the core/lumbar spine muscles, if you are too far forward then you can't balance your trunk against the strength of the muscles charged with holding it up, so you end up supporting the weight of your trunk on your hands - this will cause shoulder, wrist and hand pain.
What to do? Move the saddle back on the rails and do planks.
Next time you are going downhill stand up on the pedals- you'll notice that you balance on the pedals with no weigh on your hands, and your bottom will be behind the saddle.
Your upper body is cantilevered forward from your hips, held in place by the core/lumbar spine muscles, if you are too far forward then you can't balance your trunk against the strength of the muscles charged with holding it up, so you end up supporting the weight of your trunk on your hands - this will cause shoulder, wrist and hand pain.
What to do? Move the saddle back on the rails and do planks.
Frankly I think the bike's a bit too big for you - in terms of top-tube length.
Rather than rotating the bars, try a shorter stem perhaps - I'd guess it's around 100mm at the mo?
Also your shoulders are rounded, and arms locked out straight, 'reaching' for the bars. Shoulders should be square with a bit of a bend at the elbows - that's probably why your shoulders are hurting as much as the weight on your hands. You're very upright, so possible that all could be solved by leaning forwards a bit - but as the previous poster says that needs a bit more core strength, and pushing the saddle back a little.
Rather than rotating the bars, try a shorter stem perhaps - I'd guess it's around 100mm at the mo?
Also your shoulders are rounded, and arms locked out straight, 'reaching' for the bars. Shoulders should be square with a bit of a bend at the elbows - that's probably why your shoulders are hurting as much as the weight on your hands. You're very upright, so possible that all could be solved by leaning forwards a bit - but as the previous poster says that needs a bit more core strength, and pushing the saddle back a little.
In that photo at least, you look a little too upright and arms too locked out to me. You want a slight bend in the arms to provide some shock absorption and to take some pressure off the shoulders.
Have a look through this page and see if you can apply some of the advice, if you're not confident an entry level bike fit for around £60 may help you get more comfortable.
http://www.bikefit.com/s-13-road-bikes.aspx
Have a look through this page and see if you can apply some of the advice, if you're not confident an entry level bike fit for around £60 may help you get more comfortable.
http://www.bikefit.com/s-13-road-bikes.aspx
macp said:
?..... any recommendations without spending bundles of cash.
If you ride in that position I suggest you bend/ lower your elbows.As suggested by a poster above you are putting all the pressure into you upper back/ shoulders.
I had this issue a couple of years a go on a very long, 4 day tour, the guide with us suggested I repeat to myself "elbows down" and that solved it.
macp said:
any recommendations without spending bundles of cash.
Define "bundles" :-)I had a bike fit a couple of months ago, £35 for an hours worth of adjustments- money well spent IMO We moved seat position and height, bars (shorter stem) adjusted cleats considerably and tweaked the brake/shifter position slightly, has made a BIG difference.
macp said:
Thanks all have moved the seat back a little I get the point about core strength.I also think a shorter stem would help a lot.The stem fitted is 115mm its an FSA which I assume is standard fitment.Maybe drop to 90mm any recommendations without spending bundles of cash.
Two (sorry, 3) things that you need to know to buy a stem - the steerer tube size, and the handlebar size. There are at least 2 possible sizes for each.The final variable is whether it's straight, or angled - you can put it on either way up, so angled ones give you the ability to vary the height of the bars further.
As you say, I'd probably go to a 90 - my 54cm came with a 100, and has gone as short as 70 (currently 80). Any old brand will do, likely relatively expensive from your LBS, but ought to be fairly reasonable from somewhere like ribble or wiggle - get whatever fits and suits your price point, a stem is pretty much just a lump of metal really.
Had the same issue (shoulder ache after longer rides...)
Bike fit seems to have sorted 90% of it (it still aches slightly, but no where near as much as it used to!)
They changed:
saddle height
bar height
stem length
lever position
Doesn't help i'm ridiculously unfelxible, although this is improving with stretching!
Bike fit seems to have sorted 90% of it (it still aches slightly, but no where near as much as it used to!)
They changed:
saddle height
bar height
stem length
lever position
Doesn't help i'm ridiculously unfelxible, although this is improving with stretching!
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