Getting back in the saddle - getting comfy

[Funk]

So after kicking cigs into touch a few years back and dropping booze a couple of years ago, I'm on a mission this year to get my weight under control. I've recently picked up a Minoura 850 rim trainer from eBay for £50 which will allow me to get used to cycling again whilst the weather's grim outside and the nights are dark.

Having purchased my Specialized Rock Hopper years ago, it's been criminally under-used (read 'pretty much sat there') so I'm determined to finally get my moneys' worth from it. I bought a 19" frame having tried an 18" - the 18 felt too 'short', like I was going to go over the handlebars so I went for the 19. However, I'm not so sure now that I made the right choice. I'm 5'10"-ish, and the recommended size range is up to 18. 5'10"+1/2 nudges it to 19. I'm uncomfortable on the bike at the moment and feel like I'm putting a lot of weight on my arms and wrists; the heels of my hands hurt after a ride or any length of time on the trainer.

What can I do to 'tweak' my riding position to improve things? Is the frame just ultimately the wrong size for me? Am I just not used to being back on a bike after so long off one? I am very overweight which I'm sure doesn't help with pressure through my arms but I'd like to make sure I'm not doing anything that might cause me problems whilst I'm working toward getting fitter.

[47p2]

Sounds like you're in the position I was in almost 1 year ago. I jumped on my bike after 25 years and couldn't find a comfortable position. Try lowering the saddle an inch or two, also a slightly shorter riser stem will help give you a more upright position. I also started on the turbo, scared to venture out and when I did a tough 3 miles was my limit. 11 months later and I have almost 4000 miles under my wheels, can easily do 90 miles on my single speed and have hit my target weight.

[megaphone]

You should be able to raise the handle bars a bit by adding some spacers under the stem. It all depends how much steering tube there is on the forks. Take the top cap off and have a look, just a 5/6mm allen key.

Or you can get riser bars.

[Funk]

Thanks guys, I'll cock about with the seat position etc and see if it makes a difference. It may just be unfamiliarity and I'll get used to it. I wonder if a riser under the front wheel might actually make all the difference?

Bought a proper quick-release skewer for the trainer today, the one that came with the bike doesn't really sit very well in there. £8 from the local bike shop - excellent.

[mrmr96]

megaphone said:

You should be able to raise the handle bars a bit by adding some spacers under the stem. It all depends how much steering tube there is on the forks. Take the top cap off and have a look, just a 5/6mm allen key.

Or you can get riser bars.

Your suggestion would be appropriate if the OP was riding on the road and was uncomfortable. However he's using a turbo trainer at home, which is lifting the rear wheel whilst leavin the front wheel on the ground. This pitches the whole bike forward and will indeed put pressure on arms/wrists. A "wheel riser" is a plastic block designed to sit under the front wheel, so that the whole bike is level whilst bolted into the turbo trainer. So it would seem to make more sense to try lifting the front of the bike on a wheel riser, before he looks into changing the bars/stem.

[Gizmoish]

And when people say "a riser"... An old yellow pages or textbook works just fine.

[Incorrigible]

When people say riser I think they mean riser bars.

But riser bars and/or a stem with more rise and possibly a bit shorter will help I'm sure

From someone in a very similar position a year ago

[anonymous-user]

Echoing what's been said: if your wrists/hands ache, you've got too much weight on them. There are (at least) three causes:

1. Your front wheel is on the ground but the rear wheel is off the ground when locked into the trainer. Use something to get the wheels level.

2. the nose of your saddle points down. This will cause you to slide towards the nose of the saddle, loading your wrists. Get the saddle level - not nose up, as that can cause numbness from unwanted pressure. Dead flat, and balance on it.

3. lack of core strength. When you're riding you want your core to engage to support your upper body. If you don't, the weight rests on your arms. Here's a test: can you ride comfortably with your elbows relaxed? If yes, can you lift your hands half a cm off the bars and hold them there? If yes, your core is nicely engaged. If not, it's got its feet up somewhere and is enjoying a day off. To build core strength, try doing plank exercises (front and sides) twice a day, building to 60s left, 60s front, 60s right).

In the short term, you may be able to alleviate the issue by fitting a short and more upright stem. This will tilt your upper body up and back, putting more weight over the saddle and less through your hands. However, that is a short term measure, as outdoors it's going to make you into a sail when riding into any sort of wind. The core strength remedy will work better in the long term (even to the point of allowing you to ride reasonably easily on a frame that's too long and too low at the front).

PS: once the sun comes out, get outside. It's so much nicer than riding a trainers indoors...

Edited by anonymous-user on Thursday 16th January 11:46

[Gizmoish]

Incorrigible said:

When people say riser I think they mean riser bars.

But riser bars and/or a stem with more rise and possibly a bit shorter will help I'm sure

From someone in a very similar position a year ago

This is a riser.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/elite-elastogel-travel-fro...