What sort of bike for...
Discussion
This is PH, so the correct answer to that question is "something that costs double your actual budget...as a bare minimum!"
There isn't a simple answer to this. It all depends on what sort of a rider you are, what kit if any you need to carry on your commute, where the bike will be stored at the work destination etc...
Some people commute on aero triathlon machines, some people commute on FS MTBs & BMXs and everything inbetween!
Road-bike - will probably be quicker but might not cope as well with rough roads (ie; tyres may be more prone to punctures), no mounting points for mudguards / paniers etc
CycloCross - more up to the job on the rough-stuff, disc brakes might be fitted so better stopping in the wet... still might not have mounting for guards/paniers though?
Hybrid - more of an upright riding position. Gurards / paniers should be easily fitted. Disc brakes will stop you better in the wet. Larger volume tyres to soak up the bumps. Heavier than the first two at the same price-point.
MTB - hard-tail so front forks will soak up some bumps, better brakes, similar upright-ish riding position to a Hybrid. mounting for racks etc may be on the MTB
Folding commuter - racks guards etc should fit, foldable for easier storage at work location possibly? Less attractive to thieves maybe?...if this is a consideration for you?
All of the above comments are massive generalisations about the types of bike and there will always be exceptions to what I have written depending on cost and spec of individual machines.
There isn't a simple answer to this. It all depends on what sort of a rider you are, what kit if any you need to carry on your commute, where the bike will be stored at the work destination etc...
Some people commute on aero triathlon machines, some people commute on FS MTBs & BMXs and everything inbetween!
Road-bike - will probably be quicker but might not cope as well with rough roads (ie; tyres may be more prone to punctures), no mounting points for mudguards / paniers etc
CycloCross - more up to the job on the rough-stuff, disc brakes might be fitted so better stopping in the wet... still might not have mounting for guards/paniers though?
Hybrid - more of an upright riding position. Gurards / paniers should be easily fitted. Disc brakes will stop you better in the wet. Larger volume tyres to soak up the bumps. Heavier than the first two at the same price-point.
MTB - hard-tail so front forks will soak up some bumps, better brakes, similar upright-ish riding position to a Hybrid. mounting for racks etc may be on the MTB
Folding commuter - racks guards etc should fit, foldable for easier storage at work location possibly? Less attractive to thieves maybe?...if this is a consideration for you?
All of the above comments are massive generalisations about the types of bike and there will always be exceptions to what I have written depending on cost and spec of individual machines.
This should do you a job.
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/trek/remedy-99...
(PH answer)
If you don't get on with it I'll give you a couple of hundred for it.
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/trek/remedy-99...
(PH answer)
If you don't get on with it I'll give you a couple of hundred for it.
Gizmoish said:
At least.
I vote for either a road bike or CX with slicks (or Sammy Slicks).
I was going to suggest the same, and mention that a CX bike with appropriate tyres does damn near anything and quite well. I vote for either a road bike or CX with slicks (or Sammy Slicks).
Still very very happy with my Boardman CX and I'd look at that or something similar for the route.
I unfortunately posted it in the wrong thread...
I've got a Specialized Tricross sport
Cyclocross bike. Not too heavy. Will take mudguards. Pannier mounts, bottle mounts. Three-position drop bars for a bit of variety, with additional brake levers on the top.
Does me fine for a 13-mile each way a couple of times a week, summer and winter.
Cyclocross bike. Not too heavy. Will take mudguards. Pannier mounts, bottle mounts. Three-position drop bars for a bit of variety, with additional brake levers on the top.
Does me fine for a 13-mile each way a couple of times a week, summer and winter.
TwistingMyMelon said:
User a older hard tail MTB, with no suspension (or at least lockable suspension) and slick tyres, see if you stick to it and take it from there.
That's exactly what I have at the moment. I have done 6,000 miles on my Scott mountain bike, much of that with rigid forks. I fitted a 48t chainring and 26x1.6 Continental slicks and I used to sheen it to Kingston every day. It was, and still is, a decent bike for that but I'm a bit reluctant to get back on it for the commute now that it's over poorly kept country lanes rather than smoother main roads. I think this is down to the sheer stiffness of the frame and the wheels. The riding position doesn't help either- I ended up jacking the seat up quite a lot to get into my preferred seating position which puts quite a lot of strain through my wrists on the flat bars.I was idly wondering if I should give 700C wheels and dropped bars a go. I think I probably should- although really I should just man up and get back on the MTB to see how it goes for a while before making a reasonably big financial committment on a new bike.
I think a CX bike is the right tool for the job really.
HustleRussell said:
...a seven mile each way commute with a big hill and nasty potholed roads all the way?
fairly similar to my commute. i use a genesis vapour (cx bike). have put on some schwalbe marathon plus tyres and have have no punctures in around 6000 miles of commuting and general cycling in 3 years or so.HustleRussell said:
...a seven mile each way commute with a big hill and nasty potholed roads all the way?
How "nasty" are the potholed roads? Unless it's borderline tank-track stuff, I suspect a road bike with suitably fat tyres will be fine. You'll be surprised at the battering they can take.Rob_T said:
fairly similar to my commute. i use a genesis vapour (cx bike). have put on some schwalbe marathon plus tyres and have have no punctures in around 6000 miles of commuting and general cycling in 3 years or so.
I'm doing it wrong then.Circa 20-30 punxtures in 3k miles here.
Bloody schwalbe ultremos, they're made of butter...
Some Gump said:
I'm doing it wrong then.
Circa 20-30 punxtures in 3k miles here.
Bloody schwalbe ultremos, they're made of butter...
Whilst I absolutely love Ultremos for Summer use on a road bike, I'd never consider riding on them over Autumn/Winter/Spring, nor would I consider using them anywhere near 'cyclocross' type terrain.Circa 20-30 punxtures in 3k miles here.
Bloody schwalbe ultremos, they're made of butter...
HustleRussell said:
TwistingMyMelon said:
User a older hard tail MTB, with no suspension (or at least lockable suspension) and slick tyres, see if you stick to it and take it from there.
That's exactly what I have at the moment. I have done 6,000 miles on my Scott mountain bike, much of that with rigid forks. I fitted a 48t chainring and 26x1.6 Continental slicks and I used to sheen it to Kingston every day. It was, and still is, a decent bike for that but I'm a bit reluctant to get back on it for the commute now that it's over poorly kept country lanes rather than smoother main roads. I think this is down to the sheer stiffness of the frame and the wheels. The riding position doesn't help either- I ended up jacking the seat up quite a lot to get into my preferred seating position which puts quite a lot of strain through my wrists on the flat bars.I was idly wondering if I should give 700C wheels and dropped bars a go. I think I probably should- although really I should just man up and get back on the MTB to see how it goes for a while before making a reasonably big financial committment on a new bike.
I think a CX bike is the right tool for the job really.
I'd do it a few times on your MTB before deciding what next, might be worse/better than expected
CX is a good option
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