What IS a road bike / mountain bike / touring bike / hybrid?
Discussion
Guys,
Stupid question, but I need to ask it. I had my bike nicked a week or so ago and need to replace it. The one that went was an old Peugeot Premiere, which was a 'racing' bike; it had drop handlebars and thin tyres. (And went very well and I loved it.)
I need a replacement, which will mainly be used for short distance riding around town - a couple of miles each way, in traffic. Budget ideally less than £100.
I can see that mountain bikes change hands very cheaply and 'racing bikes' are more expensive. However there are things called 'Hybrid bikes' which are somewhere in between the two. What is a 'Hybrid Bike'? Is it simply a mountain bike that someone has put smaller wheels and tyres on? Is there anything to stop me from buying a mountain bike and doing this with it? I am aware that different bikes have different 'geometry' (which I take to be the angles in the frame) so presume that this is going to be a factor, along with gear ratios and suchlike, which may make this idea a bad one.
Also, what is the difference between a 'racing' bike and a 'touring' bike? (Or indeed a 'cyclocross' bike, as mentioned on this thread?) Is this down to frame geometry as well?
Also, what do you get when you spend more on bicycles? I can understand that modern bikes will have aluminium frames so will be lighter, and even more expensive ones will have carbon fibre frames - but my budget will mean these are out of reach. I can also understand that different brakes and gear mechanisms will work better and be more precise. However would I do better buying something old ('retro, as they seem to be called) with a steel frame and nicer brakes and gears, or something newer with a more modern frame and cheaper components?
Sorry for all these questions ... all help welcomed - thanks.
Oli.
Stupid question, but I need to ask it. I had my bike nicked a week or so ago and need to replace it. The one that went was an old Peugeot Premiere, which was a 'racing' bike; it had drop handlebars and thin tyres. (And went very well and I loved it.)
I need a replacement, which will mainly be used for short distance riding around town - a couple of miles each way, in traffic. Budget ideally less than £100.
I can see that mountain bikes change hands very cheaply and 'racing bikes' are more expensive. However there are things called 'Hybrid bikes' which are somewhere in between the two. What is a 'Hybrid Bike'? Is it simply a mountain bike that someone has put smaller wheels and tyres on? Is there anything to stop me from buying a mountain bike and doing this with it? I am aware that different bikes have different 'geometry' (which I take to be the angles in the frame) so presume that this is going to be a factor, along with gear ratios and suchlike, which may make this idea a bad one.
Also, what is the difference between a 'racing' bike and a 'touring' bike? (Or indeed a 'cyclocross' bike, as mentioned on this thread?) Is this down to frame geometry as well?
Also, what do you get when you spend more on bicycles? I can understand that modern bikes will have aluminium frames so will be lighter, and even more expensive ones will have carbon fibre frames - but my budget will mean these are out of reach. I can also understand that different brakes and gear mechanisms will work better and be more precise. However would I do better buying something old ('retro, as they seem to be called) with a steel frame and nicer brakes and gears, or something newer with a more modern frame and cheaper components?
Sorry for all these questions ... all help welcomed - thanks.
Oli.
zcacogp said:
Guys,
Stupid question, but I need to ask it. I had my bike nicked a week or so ago and need to replace it. The one that went was an old Peugeot Premiere, which was a 'racing' bike; it had drop handlebars and thin tyres. (And went very well and I loved it.)
I need a replacement, which will mainly be used for short distance riding around town - a couple of miles each way, in traffic. Budget ideally less than £100.
I can see that mountain bikes change hands very cheaply and 'racing bikes' are more expensive. However there are things called 'Hybrid bikes' which are somewhere in between the two. What is a 'Hybrid Bike'? Is it simply a mountain bike that someone has put smaller wheels and tyres on? Is there anything to stop me from buying a mountain bike and doing this with it? I am aware that different bikes have different 'geometry' (which I take to be the angles in the frame) so presume that this is going to be a factor, along with gear ratios and suchlike, which may make this idea a bad one.
Also, what is the difference between a 'racing' bike and a 'touring' bike? (Or indeed a 'cyclocross' bike, as mentioned on this thread?) Is this down to frame geometry as well?
Also, what do you get when you spend more on bicycles? I can understand that modern bikes will have aluminium frames so will be lighter, and even more expensive ones will have carbon fibre frames - but my budget will mean these are out of reach. I can also understand that different brakes and gear mechanisms will work better and be more precise. However would I do better buying something old ('retro, as they seem to be called) with a steel frame and nicer brakes and gears, or something newer with a more modern frame and cheaper components?
Sorry for all these questions ... all help welcomed - thanks.
Oli.
Hybrids come in a few flavours, really depends on who made it - some are really mountain bikes with skinny tyres, some are road (racing) bikes with flat bars, and there are a huge range of bikes that span the two camps. A mountain bike with some cheap road tyres will do the job perfectly. Stupid question, but I need to ask it. I had my bike nicked a week or so ago and need to replace it. The one that went was an old Peugeot Premiere, which was a 'racing' bike; it had drop handlebars and thin tyres. (And went very well and I loved it.)
I need a replacement, which will mainly be used for short distance riding around town - a couple of miles each way, in traffic. Budget ideally less than £100.
I can see that mountain bikes change hands very cheaply and 'racing bikes' are more expensive. However there are things called 'Hybrid bikes' which are somewhere in between the two. What is a 'Hybrid Bike'? Is it simply a mountain bike that someone has put smaller wheels and tyres on? Is there anything to stop me from buying a mountain bike and doing this with it? I am aware that different bikes have different 'geometry' (which I take to be the angles in the frame) so presume that this is going to be a factor, along with gear ratios and suchlike, which may make this idea a bad one.
Also, what is the difference between a 'racing' bike and a 'touring' bike? (Or indeed a 'cyclocross' bike, as mentioned on this thread?) Is this down to frame geometry as well?
Also, what do you get when you spend more on bicycles? I can understand that modern bikes will have aluminium frames so will be lighter, and even more expensive ones will have carbon fibre frames - but my budget will mean these are out of reach. I can also understand that different brakes and gear mechanisms will work better and be more precise. However would I do better buying something old ('retro, as they seem to be called) with a steel frame and nicer brakes and gears, or something newer with a more modern frame and cheaper components?
Sorry for all these questions ... all help welcomed - thanks.
Oli.
I'll be honest, for your budget buy the best condition second-hand bike you can find, avoid like the plague anything with a suspension frame. Hybrids hold their value mostly because cycle commuting is huge right now and unlike Roadies and Mountain Bikers who'll switch bikes for the latest fashion, riders see it more as a tool for a job and hold onto them.
I have to be honest. I don't like Hybrids. They look all wrong to me. The riding position is a bit too much 'sit up and beg' for my liking although I can see why some people would think it's better suited to commuting as you can see a little further and possibly be seen from further away.
I borrowed one when I went on a ride some time back and I think I could have made better progress on my mountain bike with skinny city tyres on it.
As for the others you've mentioned. Touring bikes tend to be less concerned with outright weight reduction and more about comfort. Plus they will definitely have all the lugs and holes you need to fit multiple panniers. Cyclo-cross bikes are still quick road bikes, but the forks and seat stays are set a little further apart to allow them to take knobbly tyres.
Mountain bikes have changed over the years too. What you don't need is anything with rear suspension. Front suspension is arguable - my commuting bike has lockable front forks, which I have locked solid as all the effort you put into pedalling just gets translated to bob when you're out the saddle. I'm hoping to swap mine out for solid forks at some point.
Instead, you can get riser bars which have more flex in than straight bars and will help reduce shocks from bumps and lumps in the city - and this will be a lot lighter than front suspension.
Finally, I prefer steel frames too. I find aluminium very harsh in a bike with no suspension. It's hard to define, but there's just somehting about steel which is more pleasing to ride.
I borrowed one when I went on a ride some time back and I think I could have made better progress on my mountain bike with skinny city tyres on it.
As for the others you've mentioned. Touring bikes tend to be less concerned with outright weight reduction and more about comfort. Plus they will definitely have all the lugs and holes you need to fit multiple panniers. Cyclo-cross bikes are still quick road bikes, but the forks and seat stays are set a little further apart to allow them to take knobbly tyres.
Mountain bikes have changed over the years too. What you don't need is anything with rear suspension. Front suspension is arguable - my commuting bike has lockable front forks, which I have locked solid as all the effort you put into pedalling just gets translated to bob when you're out the saddle. I'm hoping to swap mine out for solid forks at some point.
Instead, you can get riser bars which have more flex in than straight bars and will help reduce shocks from bumps and lumps in the city - and this will be a lot lighter than front suspension.
Finally, I prefer steel frames too. I find aluminium very harsh in a bike with no suspension. It's hard to define, but there's just somehting about steel which is more pleasing to ride.
Edited by Kell on Friday 4th October 17:22
Chaps,
Thanks for your answers. They are helpful. I guess the part of the question that I haven't yet asked is "what am I going to like or dislike?", to which the answer is that I should ride some and see ... which isn't an option when bidding on eBay or taking a punt on gumtree.
As it is, things have moved on a little and I have been given a Raleigh Chiltern. Something like this;
Google tells me that this is a 'hybrid' (which could mean anything, as P-Jay said) and it's in rough condition. It needs some new spokes on the back wheel and all the cables need to come off and be cleaned, lubricated and re-fitted. I guess I am wondering whether it will work for what I want it to do, which is to be something fairly easy to ride briskly in town. The bike as it stands seems to be a very heavy, slow-moving, unrewarding thing (I have ridden it about 1/2 mile), although it is in such grim condition this probably isn't indicative of anything much. I do know that I will want to fit narrower tyres on it (I think it has 700c wheels, which I understand are better for on-road bikes, non?) and pump them up pretty hard. I'll also consider some drop handlebars as I liked the variety of riding positions they gave me on my old bike.
It has a Sturmey-Archer three-speed gear system in the middle of the rear wheel - soemthing I haven't used since I had one on my old Raleigh Grifter, 30 years ago! Are these any good? Should I think about replacing it with a derailleur system? (Is this possible?) The lack of 'speeds' isn't an issue as I only used the top three on my old bike, but is this a fundamentally flawed gearing system?
As you can tell, I am thinking of converting this bike to something as similar to my old racer as I can. Am I trying to achieve the impossible? Is this a stupid idea? Would I do better making it rideable and then flogging it, and putting the cash into something more suitable?
Sorry for these stupid questions. I was quite into bikes in my teens but things were a bit simpler back then and the world has moved on a bit since. When I bought my Peugeot bike then a bike that had the rear brake cable running through the frame (as opposed to being clipped onto the outside of it) was a good bike, and you could buy a rear derailleur mechanism from the local bike shop for £8. How much of an old fart do I sound, eh?
Oli.
Thanks for your answers. They are helpful. I guess the part of the question that I haven't yet asked is "what am I going to like or dislike?", to which the answer is that I should ride some and see ... which isn't an option when bidding on eBay or taking a punt on gumtree.
As it is, things have moved on a little and I have been given a Raleigh Chiltern. Something like this;
Google tells me that this is a 'hybrid' (which could mean anything, as P-Jay said) and it's in rough condition. It needs some new spokes on the back wheel and all the cables need to come off and be cleaned, lubricated and re-fitted. I guess I am wondering whether it will work for what I want it to do, which is to be something fairly easy to ride briskly in town. The bike as it stands seems to be a very heavy, slow-moving, unrewarding thing (I have ridden it about 1/2 mile), although it is in such grim condition this probably isn't indicative of anything much. I do know that I will want to fit narrower tyres on it (I think it has 700c wheels, which I understand are better for on-road bikes, non?) and pump them up pretty hard. I'll also consider some drop handlebars as I liked the variety of riding positions they gave me on my old bike.
It has a Sturmey-Archer three-speed gear system in the middle of the rear wheel - soemthing I haven't used since I had one on my old Raleigh Grifter, 30 years ago! Are these any good? Should I think about replacing it with a derailleur system? (Is this possible?) The lack of 'speeds' isn't an issue as I only used the top three on my old bike, but is this a fundamentally flawed gearing system?
As you can tell, I am thinking of converting this bike to something as similar to my old racer as I can. Am I trying to achieve the impossible? Is this a stupid idea? Would I do better making it rideable and then flogging it, and putting the cash into something more suitable?
Sorry for these stupid questions. I was quite into bikes in my teens but things were a bit simpler back then and the world has moved on a bit since. When I bought my Peugeot bike then a bike that had the rear brake cable running through the frame (as opposed to being clipped onto the outside of it) was a good bike, and you could buy a rear derailleur mechanism from the local bike shop for £8. How much of an old fart do I sound, eh?
Oli.
This could take some time...
Bikes with drop (round curved) handlebars, 700c wheels and rigid forks:
- racing road bikes. "Aggressive" riding position for aero and riding efficiency. Thin tyres, 23/25mm.
- sportive bikes. As above but less saddle to bar drop (higher bars) for less-bendy people, and frequently comfort-related frame design such as compliant rear triangle tubes.
- Cyclocross. Originally for racing across muddy fields, so have stronger frames and lower gearing than road bikes (though not always), now increasingly used for commuting. Slightly knobbly tyres, 28-38mm.
- touring. Longer wheelbase, slacker geometry for comfort and stability on long rides. Often triple chain set to help with lugging camping gear up hills. See: Dawes Galaxy.
- Single speeds/ fixies/ track bikes: one gear. Sometimes no brakes.
Time trial / triathlon bikes: odd frame and handlebar designs aimed at aero efficiency. Not really suitable for riding 'normally' due to lack of manoeuvrability and visibility.
To be continued...
Bikes with drop (round curved) handlebars, 700c wheels and rigid forks:
- racing road bikes. "Aggressive" riding position for aero and riding efficiency. Thin tyres, 23/25mm.
- sportive bikes. As above but less saddle to bar drop (higher bars) for less-bendy people, and frequently comfort-related frame design such as compliant rear triangle tubes.
- Cyclocross. Originally for racing across muddy fields, so have stronger frames and lower gearing than road bikes (though not always), now increasingly used for commuting. Slightly knobbly tyres, 28-38mm.
- touring. Longer wheelbase, slacker geometry for comfort and stability on long rides. Often triple chain set to help with lugging camping gear up hills. See: Dawes Galaxy.
- Single speeds/ fixies/ track bikes: one gear. Sometimes no brakes.
Time trial / triathlon bikes: odd frame and handlebar designs aimed at aero efficiency. Not really suitable for riding 'normally' due to lack of manoeuvrability and visibility.
To be continued...
Gizmoish,
Thanks ... so a 'type' of bike is a combination of things. Can you change from one type to another? Actually, that's a stupid question as it 'compartmentalises' bikes unhelpfully.
So, more practically, can I fit drop handlebars and a rear dérailleur to the frame of the Raleigh bike that I have? Will it produce something that is likely to please, or will it produce a bastardised mess?
Oli.
Thanks ... so a 'type' of bike is a combination of things. Can you change from one type to another? Actually, that's a stupid question as it 'compartmentalises' bikes unhelpfully.
So, more practically, can I fit drop handlebars and a rear dérailleur to the frame of the Raleigh bike that I have? Will it produce something that is likely to please, or will it produce a bastardised mess?
Oli.
Mountain bikes: sturdy frames, wide bars, low gears, 26", 29" or 650b wheels
- Hard tails. Front suspension only, but usually fairly long travel. Come in 'XC' cross country or 'downhill' geometry. Downhill bikes don't really work on the flat.
- Full suspension. Both ends squish. Often seen under fat men riding along a flat track but also extremely good at jumping off things.
- Hard tails. Front suspension only, but usually fairly long travel. Come in 'XC' cross country or 'downhill' geometry. Downhill bikes don't really work on the flat.
- Full suspension. Both ends squish. Often seen under fat men riding along a flat track but also extremely good at jumping off things.
And because I've bored myself: hybrids are any combination of parts that doesn't quite fit any of the above.
The Raleigh above is what I'd call a "town bike", very upright and aimed at bimblers; but there are road bikes with flat bars (Boardman Hybrid Team), bikes that look exactly like lightweight mountain bikes from the 1990s (Carrera Subway), mountain bike frames with road gears and wheels, etc etc.
Generally you can't really change the type of a bike - adding/removing suspension forks usually changes the geometry, frames are built the correct strength for their design purpose and parts are parts so apart from real tramp-bitsas it's hardly worth it.
The Raleigh above is what I'd call a "town bike", very upright and aimed at bimblers; but there are road bikes with flat bars (Boardman Hybrid Team), bikes that look exactly like lightweight mountain bikes from the 1990s (Carrera Subway), mountain bike frames with road gears and wheels, etc etc.
Generally you can't really change the type of a bike - adding/removing suspension forks usually changes the geometry, frames are built the correct strength for their design purpose and parts are parts so apart from real tramp-bitsas it's hardly worth it.
zcacogp said:
Gizmoish,
Thanks ... so a 'type' of bike is a combination of things. Can you change from one type to another? Actually, that's a stupid question as it 'compartmentalises' bikes unhelpfully.
So, more practically, can I fit drop handlebars and a rear dérailleur to the frame of the Raleigh bike that I have? Will it produce something that is likely to please, or will it produce a bastardised mess?
Oli.
Unless you did it with very cheap second hand parts from Ebay, it would cost a fair amount to change the gears and fit drop handlebars (would need new brakes/shifters as well). It would also produce a very odd bike.Thanks ... so a 'type' of bike is a combination of things. Can you change from one type to another? Actually, that's a stupid question as it 'compartmentalises' bikes unhelpfully.
So, more practically, can I fit drop handlebars and a rear dérailleur to the frame of the Raleigh bike that I have? Will it produce something that is likely to please, or will it produce a bastardised mess?
Oli.
If you want a different type of bike it's generally easier/better/cheaper to sell what youve got and buy a 2nd hand bike of the right type.
Gizmoish said:
The Raleigh above is what I'd call a "town bike", very upright and aimed at bimblers.
That's what I was suspecting. I guess I am wondering whether such a machine could be made into something that would suit my purposes or whether there is something fundamental about it that would prevent me .... Sarkmeister said:
Unless you did it with very cheap second hand parts from Ebay, it would cost a fair amount to change the gears and fit drop handlebars (would need new brakes/shifters as well). It would also produce a very odd bike.
If you want a different type of bike it's generally easier/better/cheaper to sell what youve got and buy a 2nd hand bike of the right type.
... and I think this answers my question pretty well. If you want a different type of bike it's generally easier/better/cheaper to sell what youve got and buy a 2nd hand bike of the right type.
Thanks Gizmosh and Sarkmeister. I think that's the information I need. I therefore need to find something on eBay/Gumtree that is a better match to my needs; probably something of a road/tourer nature. I'm happy to buy something that is a bit neglected as I am practical, and will flog the Raleigh for some money to put into the pot.
Thanks for your help chaps.
Peugeot Premier!
I had one one of those in black, served me very well for 20 years
Found the catalogue the other day, it cost £119 in 1985
I always wanted one of those Raleigh ?Equipe that were in black and gold but £180 was just too much at the time!
As for the hybrid, I have a Giant ( I'll post pics after) and seves me really well, I can do 99% of what my mtb mates do and is still good,if a bit slow on the road.
I had one one of those in black, served me very well for 20 years
Found the catalogue the other day, it cost £119 in 1985
I always wanted one of those Raleigh ?Equipe that were in black and gold but £180 was just too much at the time!
As for the hybrid, I have a Giant ( I'll post pics after) and seves me really well, I can do 99% of what my mtb mates do and is still good,if a bit slow on the road.
Chaps,
Bit of an update on this. No, the BiB haven't found my bike (I seriously doubt they have done anything more than send me a letter saying their investigations have 'proved inconclusive' and a leaflet for Victim Support), but I do have a new bike. A Claud Butler Chinook, which I bought in a sorry state for £55. I've since spent another £60 on parts for it from Chain Reaction (near rear sprockets, new chain, new cables), dismantled it, cleaned it up, lubricated it and re-assembled it. And it works! It looks like this;
http://claudbutler.co.uk/cycle-range/range/claud-b...
But ... it's very different to ride to my old Peugeot. The main difference is that it is much, much harsher on the road. It's much lighter, much more rigid and feels a lot less relaxing to ride. I appreciate that this may be a matter of getting used to it, but what will cause it? The tyres are a bit narrower than the ones on my old bike but still pumped up to 80psi. It's an alloy frame rather than a steel one, and is this the likely cause, or is it more likely to be the geometry of the frame?
I am also not getting on with the handlebars, which seem overly wide and clumsy. But then I have always preferred drops over flat bars. I guess changing them won't be that difficult, but I will need to get the correct brakes and shifters.
It also seems quite slow. I am guessing this is a product of a less favourable position from the non-drop handlebars and the fact that it has Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres on, which I have never much liked and seem to have just about no grip at all. I have a set of Continental Gatorskins which I think I'll swap over as soon as possible.
Oli.
Bit of an update on this. No, the BiB haven't found my bike (I seriously doubt they have done anything more than send me a letter saying their investigations have 'proved inconclusive' and a leaflet for Victim Support), but I do have a new bike. A Claud Butler Chinook, which I bought in a sorry state for £55. I've since spent another £60 on parts for it from Chain Reaction (near rear sprockets, new chain, new cables), dismantled it, cleaned it up, lubricated it and re-assembled it. And it works! It looks like this;
http://claudbutler.co.uk/cycle-range/range/claud-b...
But ... it's very different to ride to my old Peugeot. The main difference is that it is much, much harsher on the road. It's much lighter, much more rigid and feels a lot less relaxing to ride. I appreciate that this may be a matter of getting used to it, but what will cause it? The tyres are a bit narrower than the ones on my old bike but still pumped up to 80psi. It's an alloy frame rather than a steel one, and is this the likely cause, or is it more likely to be the geometry of the frame?
I am also not getting on with the handlebars, which seem overly wide and clumsy. But then I have always preferred drops over flat bars. I guess changing them won't be that difficult, but I will need to get the correct brakes and shifters.
It also seems quite slow. I am guessing this is a product of a less favourable position from the non-drop handlebars and the fact that it has Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres on, which I have never much liked and seem to have just about no grip at all. I have a set of Continental Gatorskins which I think I'll swap over as soon as possible.
Oli.
Oli, that looks similar to the Giant Rapid, which I've done thousands of miles on this year and tried a fair few upgrades on. This may help:
Forget gatorskins, awful hard ride and no grip. Get some Michelin Lithion 2's in the wider 25c from planet-X for a quite silly £12.49each. Fabulous riding tyre with all season grip and puncture resistance. Inflate to 95-105psi.
Measure the seatpost and get a cheap carbon one off ebay, should be around £30. This improved the ride quality a lot for me. If the saddle is uncomfortable try a Charge Spoon (c.£20) or Madison Flux, which is identical but a tad more padding, similar price.
The flat bar should be around 580mm? Can be cut down of course. Fit some ergo grips - I have Ergon GP2 with stubby bar ends on, there are cheap copies about.
After a few months if you've still an interest in it, keep an eye out for a cheap secondhand wheelset as those will be heavy.
HTH
Forget gatorskins, awful hard ride and no grip. Get some Michelin Lithion 2's in the wider 25c from planet-X for a quite silly £12.49each. Fabulous riding tyre with all season grip and puncture resistance. Inflate to 95-105psi.
Measure the seatpost and get a cheap carbon one off ebay, should be around £30. This improved the ride quality a lot for me. If the saddle is uncomfortable try a Charge Spoon (c.£20) or Madison Flux, which is identical but a tad more padding, similar price.
The flat bar should be around 580mm? Can be cut down of course. Fit some ergo grips - I have Ergon GP2 with stubby bar ends on, there are cheap copies about.
After a few months if you've still an interest in it, keep an eye out for a cheap secondhand wheelset as those will be heavy.
HTH
zcacogp said:
I am also not getting on with the handlebars, which seem overly wide and clumsy. But then I have always preferred drops over flat bars. I guess changing them won't be that difficult, but I will need to get the correct brakes and shifters.
It will easily cost more than the bike cost to change over to drops. As mentioned above, the best option would be to trim the bar down to the size you like, then add bar ends. This will give you a different positions for your hands, and let you still use your existing shifters/brakes.
I also agree with the carbon seat post idea...
Chaps,
Lots of great answers, thanks. The aim of the exercise is to produce a budget bike which works for local short-distance urban riding (usually less than 5 miles each way, certainly no more). Has to be practical and good in traffic on badly-surfaced roads. Thus far the new bike is succeeding in everything other than the traffic bit - the handlebars are just too wide. And it's very harsh to ride. But given that it owes me less than £120 all in thus far, I'm pretty pleased.
Richard - thanks. The old bike had a Schwalbe Marathon Plus on the back (which I hated) and a Gatorskin on the front, which I thought was a much better tyre. The Marathon Plusses may reduce the number of punctures significantly but I found that they were very hard work to keep rolling along the road. The replacement bike came with the Marathon Plusses both front and rear, which may be part of the fact that it feels slow to ride. I'm tempted to change to a spare pair of Gatorskins I have on some spare wheels just to see how much difference that makes, but will think hard about those Lithions if I don't get on with them. They do seem stupidly cheap, so thanks for the recommendation.
Wheels-wise, the bike has some HJC DA-16's on, which means nothing to me and I can't find out much on google. They aren't the wheels that would have come with the bike so someone must have changed them over at some point. They seemed light enough when I removed them from the bike, but that was compared with some no-brand things that have been kicking around my workshop for a while so this is pretty meaningless.
Seatpost and saddle - thanks a lot. That is helpful. The saddle is comfortable enough but the seatpost recommendation is very helpful. (An aside, but given that the seatpost is in near-vertical compression, why would changing to a carbon fibre one make any much difference over an alloy one?)
I haven't measured the bars but cutting them down is an interesting idea. However they are thicker in the middle than at the ends, and I'm not sure how much you could cut off without losing the ability to fit the brakes - which wouldn't fit over the thicker middle bit. I'll have a look and do some measuring. Thanks for the tip about bar ends - I guess this is a much cheaper option than drops.
Kell - yes, old one was steel, new one aluminium. It seems that my experience is shared by many.
Sark, thanks. I reckon you could do drops fairly cheaply if you found good parts second-hand on eBay (as you suggested earlier on in this thread.) It would be a faff though. Another vote for a carbon seat post, eh? Thanks.
OK, so the shopping list gets longer, once again; carbon seat post, bar ends, possibly two new tyres, anything else?
Oli.
Lots of great answers, thanks. The aim of the exercise is to produce a budget bike which works for local short-distance urban riding (usually less than 5 miles each way, certainly no more). Has to be practical and good in traffic on badly-surfaced roads. Thus far the new bike is succeeding in everything other than the traffic bit - the handlebars are just too wide. And it's very harsh to ride. But given that it owes me less than £120 all in thus far, I'm pretty pleased.
Richard - thanks. The old bike had a Schwalbe Marathon Plus on the back (which I hated) and a Gatorskin on the front, which I thought was a much better tyre. The Marathon Plusses may reduce the number of punctures significantly but I found that they were very hard work to keep rolling along the road. The replacement bike came with the Marathon Plusses both front and rear, which may be part of the fact that it feels slow to ride. I'm tempted to change to a spare pair of Gatorskins I have on some spare wheels just to see how much difference that makes, but will think hard about those Lithions if I don't get on with them. They do seem stupidly cheap, so thanks for the recommendation.
Wheels-wise, the bike has some HJC DA-16's on, which means nothing to me and I can't find out much on google. They aren't the wheels that would have come with the bike so someone must have changed them over at some point. They seemed light enough when I removed them from the bike, but that was compared with some no-brand things that have been kicking around my workshop for a while so this is pretty meaningless.
Seatpost and saddle - thanks a lot. That is helpful. The saddle is comfortable enough but the seatpost recommendation is very helpful. (An aside, but given that the seatpost is in near-vertical compression, why would changing to a carbon fibre one make any much difference over an alloy one?)
I haven't measured the bars but cutting them down is an interesting idea. However they are thicker in the middle than at the ends, and I'm not sure how much you could cut off without losing the ability to fit the brakes - which wouldn't fit over the thicker middle bit. I'll have a look and do some measuring. Thanks for the tip about bar ends - I guess this is a much cheaper option than drops.
Kell - yes, old one was steel, new one aluminium. It seems that my experience is shared by many.
Sark, thanks. I reckon you could do drops fairly cheaply if you found good parts second-hand on eBay (as you suggested earlier on in this thread.) It would be a faff though. Another vote for a carbon seat post, eh? Thanks.
OK, so the shopping list gets longer, once again; carbon seat post, bar ends, possibly two new tyres, anything else?
Oli.
zcacogp said:
Chaps,
(An aside, but given that the seatpost is in near-vertical compression, why would changing to a carbon fibre one make any much difference over an alloy one?)
Magic (An aside, but given that the seatpost is in near-vertical compression, why would changing to a carbon fibre one make any much difference over an alloy one?)
Instant 'give' on both the Rapid and my hardtail XTC. Bit of luck if the wheels are already aftermarket; do get the tyres though
richardxjr said:
The flat bar should be around 580mm? Can be cut down of course. Fit some ergo grips - I have Ergon GP2 with stubby bar ends on, there are cheap copies about.
Coming back to this - that was superb advice Richard, many thanks. I don't know whether the difference was psychological or otherwise, but lopping about 42mm off each end of the bar has made a HUGE difference to the way the bike rides. Besides the fact that it's much easier in traffic, it feels easier to control and I much, much prefer it. I don't know how wide a set of drops are but I'd guess mine is now about 500mm wide, and feels about the same as the old bike. I'm staggered at the improvement this has made. Thanks again.
Oli.
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