Advice on Triple Conversion
Discussion
Ok Im a Wuss,
Some 10% Hills and the fact Ive only been cycling a couple of months means my compact is killing me,
I almost went backwards during one climb last week.
So how do I turn this...
http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Cube-Agree-GTC-Race-Compac...
into a triple? Can I just add a granny cog on, or do I need a whole new crank, chain, shifter etc..
Any Advice appreciated.
Some 10% Hills and the fact Ive only been cycling a couple of months means my compact is killing me,
I almost went backwards during one climb last week.
So how do I turn this...
http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Cube-Agree-GTC-Race-Compac...
into a triple? Can I just add a granny cog on, or do I need a whole new crank, chain, shifter etc..
Any Advice appreciated.
Nice bike. Don't get a triple. As others have said, fit a cassette with a bigger bail out cog (28 or 30T, have a look on wiggle etc). Far cheaper and easier than fitting a triple. If you buy the cassette online you will need a couple of tools to fit it, so you would probably be better going to a local shop and buying from them so you can ask them to fit at the same time.
I'd give it a while longer before making any changes though TBH, if you have only been cycling a short while then you will improve very quickly and may not need to make any changes at all.
I'd give it a while longer before making any changes though TBH, if you have only been cycling a short while then you will improve very quickly and may not need to make any changes at all.
At a guess I'd say that it would probably have something like an 11-28 cassette fitted.
If you change it for an 11-32 it would give you some extra gears for the hills. You'd need a new cassette, chain and possibly a new rear mech.
It would be a whole heap cheaper than replacing the shifters, chainset and other bits to convert it to a triple.
If you change it for an 11-32 it would give you some extra gears for the hills. You'd need a new cassette, chain and possibly a new rear mech.
It would be a whole heap cheaper than replacing the shifters, chainset and other bits to convert it to a triple.
ok so Im assuming one of these...
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-ultegra-6700-10-sp...
what ratio would I need though? I also want to make sure Im not freewheeling on the way down too.
I have a good tool set & stand and have mastered a few mechanical jobs, feel confident enough to take this on with some youtube tutorials!
As for Rule 5, yup I agree, but muscles take time to develop, and I'd rather do it sensibly then strain them. 10% inclines for half a mile odd means I cant cycle for a few days after, thats not good, however hard you are.
When Ive trained enough, I fully intend to swap back.
Im also buying my 3rd bike in the fleet this weekend, so am following certain rules!
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-ultegra-6700-10-sp...
what ratio would I need though? I also want to make sure Im not freewheeling on the way down too.
I have a good tool set & stand and have mastered a few mechanical jobs, feel confident enough to take this on with some youtube tutorials!
As for Rule 5, yup I agree, but muscles take time to develop, and I'd rather do it sensibly then strain them. 10% inclines for half a mile odd means I cant cycle for a few days after, thats not good, however hard you are.
When Ive trained enough, I fully intend to swap back.
Im also buying my 3rd bike in the fleet this weekend, so am following certain rules!
Dont fit a triple, it will cause you more grief (front mech alignement for starters) and the gain will be minimal. I'm pretty sure Ultegra can accomodate cassettes upto 28t but that should be plenty enough, 34/28 gives you a climbing ratio of 1:1.21 which will get you up most things.
There are loads of good articles and advice about how to climb better, al lto often people charge up the first ascent, dont maintain a steady cadence, get out of the saddle too early/often or start wrenching on the bars and weave from side to side. Dont just look for the off-the-shelf solution
You could change the chainrings rather than, or as well as the cassette, most front mechs will cope witha 14, possibly 16 tooth difference between chain rings so providing you get the correct chainrings to suit the crank (check the PCD, pitch circle diameter?) and maybe consider something other than 50/34. Sram chain rings should fit if the PCD is the same but you will need an inner and an outer rather than a middle ring to fit your crank which may limit the choice somewhat.
I'd go for a 12-28 cassette, you'd need to be descending a big hill or pushing 30mph+ to spin out that sort of ratio.
http://www.machars.net/bikecalc.htm
There are loads of good articles and advice about how to climb better, al lto often people charge up the first ascent, dont maintain a steady cadence, get out of the saddle too early/often or start wrenching on the bars and weave from side to side. Dont just look for the off-the-shelf solution
You could change the chainrings rather than, or as well as the cassette, most front mechs will cope witha 14, possibly 16 tooth difference between chain rings so providing you get the correct chainrings to suit the crank (check the PCD, pitch circle diameter?) and maybe consider something other than 50/34. Sram chain rings should fit if the PCD is the same but you will need an inner and an outer rather than a middle ring to fit your crank which may limit the choice somewhat.
I'd go for a 12-28 cassette, you'd need to be descending a big hill or pushing 30mph+ to spin out that sort of ratio.
http://www.machars.net/bikecalc.htm
Edited by anonymous-user on Thursday 22 August 13:25
GhostDriver said:
ok so Im assuming one of these...
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-ultegra-6700-10-sp...
what ratio would I need though? I also want to make sure Im not freewheeling on the way down too.
I have a good tool set & stand and have mastered a few mechanical jobs, feel confident enough to take this on with some youtube tutorials!
As for Rule 5, yup I agree, but muscles take time to develop, and I'd rather do it sensibly then strain them. 10% inclines for half a mile odd means I cant cycle for a few days after, thats not good, however hard you are.
When Ive trained enough, I fully intend to swap back.
Im also buying my 3rd bike in the fleet this weekend, so am following certain rules!
How many teeth do you have on your largest cog at the moment?http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-ultegra-6700-10-sp...
what ratio would I need though? I also want to make sure Im not freewheeling on the way down too.
I have a good tool set & stand and have mastered a few mechanical jobs, feel confident enough to take this on with some youtube tutorials!
As for Rule 5, yup I agree, but muscles take time to develop, and I'd rather do it sensibly then strain them. 10% inclines for half a mile odd means I cant cycle for a few days after, thats not good, however hard you are.
When Ive trained enough, I fully intend to swap back.
Im also buying my 3rd bike in the fleet this weekend, so am following certain rules!
Before buying a new cassette, check how many teeth your derailleur can cope with.
Changing cassettes is easy, you just need a locking removing tool and an adjustable spanner/ torque wrench.
neenaw said:
At a guess I'd say that it would probably have something like an 11-28 cassette fitted.
Thanks Disco, I have a Shimano Ultegra RD-6700SS, good for 30T.
Stupid question, but how do I know what ratio is currently fitted?
Is it a case of counting teeth or is there marking somewhere on the cog?
Edited by GhostDriver on Thursday 22 August 13:46
Counting works best.
When changing your cassette, check that your chain isn't worn and doesn't need changing at the same time. If you haven't done many miles, then no need to worry about this most likely, but it would be worth buying a chain measuring tool at this time anyway, as they are cheap.
When changing your cassette, check that your chain isn't worn and doesn't need changing at the same time. If you haven't done many miles, then no need to worry about this most likely, but it would be worth buying a chain measuring tool at this time anyway, as they are cheap.
Disco You said:
I'd look at moving to a larger cog at the back, if possible. And, beyond that, rule 5.
Totally agree.I went from a bike with a triple to compact (largest rear cog is a 28) and my climbing has improved massively. With the triple there is a lot of duplication between gears...
Thanks Pablo, pretty sure its a long cage, but will check when I get home. As for advice on hill climbing, have read lots and lots of tips, tricks and advice, but at 15 odd stone and having spent the last 10 years on a sofa doing no excercise at all I just need a bit more help.
Again for those telling me to MTFU, Im not crying or moaning, but there was a time when I was overtraining (martial arts) and it has done long term damage, I dont want to go through that again.
Adding the extra cog, is just a means to an end for me, not a wuss out.
JC- thanks, triple conversion Idea has now been discarded
Again for those telling me to MTFU, Im not crying or moaning, but there was a time when I was overtraining (martial arts) and it has done long term damage, I dont want to go through that again.
Adding the extra cog, is just a means to an end for me, not a wuss out.
JC- thanks, triple conversion Idea has now been discarded
Johnny, as I keep saying....
I know I will improve and get stronger.
When that happens I know I wont need the extra gears, but I want them now to take the strain off, as I know old injuries will start playing up again, which would put an end to my cycling.
I presently need 5 days recovery between rides. Thats not right.
I know all about the benefits of sitting, cadance, opening my chest cage, staggered hill training, nutrition and loads more...
Its just i dont want to put stupid strains on my rather battered 40 year old body...
Otherwise id take up jogging
I know I will improve and get stronger.
When that happens I know I wont need the extra gears, but I want them now to take the strain off, as I know old injuries will start playing up again, which would put an end to my cycling.
I presently need 5 days recovery between rides. Thats not right.
I know all about the benefits of sitting, cadance, opening my chest cage, staggered hill training, nutrition and loads more...
Its just i dont want to put stupid strains on my rather battered 40 year old body...
Otherwise id take up jogging
Edited by GhostDriver on Thursday 22 August 16:25
GhostDriver said:
I have a good tool set & stand and have mastered a few mechanical jobs, feel confident enough to take this on with some youtube tutorials!
As for Rule 5, yup I agree, but muscles take time to develop, and I'd rather do it sensibly then strain them. 10% inclines for half a mile odd means I cant cycle for a few days after, thats not good, however hard you are.
When Ive trained enough, I fully intend to swap back.
Changing the cassette is easy enough as long as you've got a chain whip and a lockring tool. You'll need to adjust the rear mech once you've changed it to take into account the different cassette. As for Rule 5, yup I agree, but muscles take time to develop, and I'd rather do it sensibly then strain them. 10% inclines for half a mile odd means I cant cycle for a few days after, thats not good, however hard you are.
When Ive trained enough, I fully intend to swap back.
If you have problems I'm sure someone here will point you in the righ direction.
Are you usually riding on your own?
I found that riding with others or doing the slower group club runs helped when I started out. It helps to take your mind off the hills!
Disco You said:
GhostDriver said:
I presently need 5 days recovery between rides. Thats not right.
I know all about the benefits of sitting, cadance, opening my chest cage, staggered hill training, nutrition and loads more...
How's your diet? Are you getting enough sleep?I know all about the benefits of sitting, cadance, opening my chest cage, staggered hill training, nutrition and loads more...
After a recommendation from a mate, I gave them both a try, and (for me) it makes a lot of difference to the amount of aches the next day. I use these:
http://www.myprotein.com/sports-nutrition/ibcaa/10...
http://www.myprotein.com/sports-nutrition/l-glutam...
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