Discussion
I have 2013 Trek 1.1, which is about 2 months old. I have put about a 1000 miles through it in that time. I have noticed the rear wheel is constantly out of true. I true it up, ride it, check it, and it is out of true again.
I am a heavy rider which may contribute. Are new wheels required? If so, I don't have Dr's papers to spend much, and besides I don't want to spend loads on a £500 bike. I was thinking of either the Easton EA50s or the Fulcrum Racing 7s. Am I throwing good money after bad or are these significantly better than the s
te that came with the bike?
The bike is used for Triathlons and training, if that makes any difference.
I am a heavy rider which may contribute. Are new wheels required? If so, I don't have Dr's papers to spend much, and besides I don't want to spend loads on a £500 bike. I was thinking of either the Easton EA50s or the Fulcrum Racing 7s. Am I throwing good money after bad or are these significantly better than the s
te that came with the bike?The bike is used for Triathlons and training, if that makes any difference.
For the sake of another £40 seems like it is worth going for the 5s. Will tell the wife they only cost £120 
Would a buckled wheel really affect the ride and handling that much? It is not really badly buckled but quite bad. Went for a fast 18 miles on Saturday and it just didn't feel right. Not sure if it was the heat or I was tired but felt a real effort on the hills and I nearly binned it on a fast corner. Could have been the wheel?
Would a buckled wheel really affect the ride and handling that much? It is not really badly buckled but quite bad. Went for a fast 18 miles on Saturday and it just didn't feel right. Not sure if it was the heat or I was tired but felt a real effort on the hills and I nearly binned it on a fast corner. Could have been the wheel?
A couple of things:
How free are the nipples when you re-true. They should be tight so if they're easy to turn then you need to make sure you're balancing drive and non drive side tension. One without the other will lead to the symptoms you describe. Always adjust both sides.
You could also Try a bit of thread-lock around the nipples when you re-true if it's just that the threads are worn from constant fettling.
Check your riding style - do you sit and crash over pot-holes / poor surfaces or do you stand and take the weight through your feet. If the former, sort out your style.
I'm a heavy rider and have never had a problem with buckling even cheap wheels so check the above before you commit to spending your hard earned.
How free are the nipples when you re-true. They should be tight so if they're easy to turn then you need to make sure you're balancing drive and non drive side tension. One without the other will lead to the symptoms you describe. Always adjust both sides.
You could also Try a bit of thread-lock around the nipples when you re-true if it's just that the threads are worn from constant fettling.
Check your riding style - do you sit and crash over pot-holes / poor surfaces or do you stand and take the weight through your feet. If the former, sort out your style.
I'm a heavy rider and have never had a problem with buckling even cheap wheels so check the above before you commit to spending your hard earned.
944fan said:
Forgot to ask. The freehub is for a 10 speed. I only have a lowly 8 speed. I assume they will work with a spacer of some kind?
I bought fulcrum 5s last week (£160 from Wiggle). They came with the necessary spacer to run my 9 speed shimano cassette, I'm not sure if an 8 speed uses the same one or not.944fan said:
The nipples are tight when I am turning them and I am balancing each side.
I try to come out of the saddle on the big bumps but occasionally hit the odd one when in the saddle.
Mark the spokes and check whether it's the same ones that are needing adjusting - the threads might be shot and they're pulling out.I try to come out of the saddle on the big bumps but occasionally hit the odd one when in the saddle.
Beyond that I'd look at getting them re-tensioned by a GOOD bike shop as it will be about an hours labour and if it goes again then new wheel time.
How much do you weigh out of interest? I'm 16 stone 10 and run low spoke count wheels with no bother. If you're getting on for 20 then you might need to look at CX wheels which are inherently stronger.
I am currently just a touch over 17 stone. I was 18st when I bought the bike so it has had a small period of time at that weight.
My LBS is mega busy at the minute so will be a while before they can do the wheel.
I think I will go for the 5s and get the other one checked and keep it as a spare or maybe get another cassette and use it on the turbo trainer.
The wheels are the one that came with the bike and being entry level are ste and feel like they are made from granite so there are other reasons to want to swap. I was amazed at the difference adding some decent light tyres made so hoping the same for the wheels.
My LBS is mega busy at the minute so will be a while before they can do the wheel.
I think I will go for the 5s and get the other one checked and keep it as a spare or maybe get another cassette and use it on the turbo trainer.
The wheels are the one that came with the bike and being entry level are s
te and feel like they are made from granite so there are other reasons to want to swap. I was amazed at the difference adding some decent light tyres made so hoping the same for the wheels.
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