Make an old MTB into fast road bike or buy a road bike?
Discussion
I currently have a 1994 Orange P7 frame, forks and associated bits and bobs languishing in my shed.
Since I replaced it with a MY2000 Orange P7, it's not been ridden. But it's a classic bike and I wondered with some tall gearing, some slicks and a fair amount of TLC, if it would satisfy my new-found desire to do more road work.
Or, do I sell it? And buy something designed for the job from the outset?
Initial enquiries suggest I'd get around £200 for the bike as is (more if I break it as it has period XTR mechs etc on it), so I would be wanting to buy something with not a huge amount of cash from me.
Hence I was looking at the Triban 3, but it seems like the new version isn't as good as the old.
Anything else worth considering at that price point if I did decide to sell?
Since I replaced it with a MY2000 Orange P7, it's not been ridden. But it's a classic bike and I wondered with some tall gearing, some slicks and a fair amount of TLC, if it would satisfy my new-found desire to do more road work.
Or, do I sell it? And buy something designed for the job from the outset?
Initial enquiries suggest I'd get around £200 for the bike as is (more if I break it as it has period XTR mechs etc on it), so I would be wanting to buy something with not a huge amount of cash from me.
Hence I was looking at the Triban 3, but it seems like the new version isn't as good as the old.
Anything else worth considering at that price point if I did decide to sell?
Edited by Kell on Monday 1st July 17:12
I think in every case it is significantly cheaper to buy a new bike than try to upgrade the majority of existing components, unless you have the time to trawl ebay/classifieds for secondhand parts.
However if (like me) you enjoy tinkering then go for it! Plus on the frame side you would have a very robust frame (I've broken two road bike frames)...
However if (like me) you enjoy tinkering then go for it! Plus on the frame side you would have a very robust frame (I've broken two road bike frames)...
TBH, Id go for a full road bike, when you get faster you can exploit it so much more, esp the fitter you get
Even once you sort the tyres and ratios the weight and aero position are are poor on a MTB, especially when it is windy.
I have a slicked out MTB, it is perfectly fine on the road, but my road bike is soo much faster, efficient and enjoyable.
Even once you sort the tyres and ratios the weight and aero position are are poor on a MTB, especially when it is windy.
I have a slicked out MTB, it is perfectly fine on the road, but my road bike is soo much faster, efficient and enjoyable.
Kell said:
Hence I was looking at the Triban 3, but it seems like the new version is as good as the old.
Anything else worth considering at that price point if I did decide to sell?
You're right, it no longer has the carbon fork, and I think some other bits have changed. Doesn't look as good either.Anything else worth considering at that price point if I did decide to sell?
For a bit more money, you can get the Trek 1.1, Boardman Sport or Speci Allez. All around £500-600. Around £350 you can get the Carrera TDF, but it didn't take my fancy TBH.
I went for the Boardman Sport in the end, seemed like the best fit, and cost £50 less than the rest.
You will definitely need to make some adjustments after Halfords build it though. On mine: indexing and stops front and rear, angle of front mech, brake block alignment, brake alignment, positioning of stem & bars (worryingly the bars weren't even finger tight). Bike itself is nice though, honest!
Edited by budgie smuggler on Monday 1st July 17:05
BaronVonVaderham said:
Many many many many many people will tell you to get a skinny-wheeled no-joy 'training device' aka road bike.
However, as you're already batting for the right team I would say roadify your spare MTB. I commute on 2009 P7 Pro and whilst marginally slower than a 'training device' (more effort = more free exercise) the increase in safety due to better visibility and better brakes more than make up for it.
Also short travel forks take the sting out of the artillery-scarred state of the roads and it's nice to be able to bunny hop out of danger if needs be.
I'd highly reccomend Conti Travel contact tyres if you do - damn near impossible to puncture.
You're forgetting that in 1994, suspension was pretty much a pro-flex stem. As such, my bike has steel forks.However, as you're already batting for the right team I would say roadify your spare MTB. I commute on 2009 P7 Pro and whilst marginally slower than a 'training device' (more effort = more free exercise) the increase in safety due to better visibility and better brakes more than make up for it.
Also short travel forks take the sting out of the artillery-scarred state of the roads and it's nice to be able to bunny hop out of danger if needs be.
I'd highly reccomend Conti Travel contact tyres if you do - damn near impossible to puncture.
This is how it looks today.
Lovely old bike that.
It depends on what you mean by making “a fast road bike” and what you plan to use it for.
I’ve got a heavy old early 90s MTB that I’ve made more road orientated by simply changing the rear cassette and by using narrower slick tyres. It’s not a fast road bike but for an urban commute especially in rubbish weather it’s the bike I prefer to be on rather than my road bike and there’s generally nothing in it time wise. I used it to do 100+ miles at the end of last year and I’ll probably do that on it again in the next couple of weeks as my road bike needs some TLC. I used to have the tyres Von Vader suggested but switched to narrower gatorskins purely for the looks. They’re no quicker than wider ones he’s suggested IMHO
If you want to be going out for half or all day, you will probably get a lot further on a road bike, quicker and with less effort. That’s not to say that it couldn’t be done on the Orange, it’s just that most people you’d ride with – if that’s what you wanted to do - would probably all be on road bikes and will not be cool about taking it easy so an old MTB could keep up.
It depends on what you mean by making “a fast road bike” and what you plan to use it for.
I’ve got a heavy old early 90s MTB that I’ve made more road orientated by simply changing the rear cassette and by using narrower slick tyres. It’s not a fast road bike but for an urban commute especially in rubbish weather it’s the bike I prefer to be on rather than my road bike and there’s generally nothing in it time wise. I used it to do 100+ miles at the end of last year and I’ll probably do that on it again in the next couple of weeks as my road bike needs some TLC. I used to have the tyres Von Vader suggested but switched to narrower gatorskins purely for the looks. They’re no quicker than wider ones he’s suggested IMHO
If you want to be going out for half or all day, you will probably get a lot further on a road bike, quicker and with less effort. That’s not to say that it couldn’t be done on the Orange, it’s just that most people you’d ride with – if that’s what you wanted to do - would probably all be on road bikes and will not be cool about taking it easy so an old MTB could keep up.
If you can get the parts cheap enough then a good commuter can be had on a rigid.
This might help persuade you
Although it needs a good update.
http://therockhopperproject.blogspot.co.uk/
This might help persuade you
Although it needs a good update.http://therockhopperproject.blogspot.co.uk/
Just to expand on my bikes.
Currently, I have the '94 P7, A 2000 P7 (which I bought as the other one was getting tired), and now a Dahon Matrix as I have to use a train as part of my commute, and can't take a non-folding bike on there.
The Dahon is my regular commuter bike and I ride it most days. But it's heavy and not great outside of my commute.
I've not ridden the old P7 in 13 years, and not ridden the new(er) one in about five. There's no point keeping them all (even though I have the room) and as the 94 is a classic, I'm loathe to get rid of it for a cheap road bike.
I actually thought I might cannibalise the newer one for parts (even though it wouldn't then be 'retro') just to get it up and running again. And to teach myself more about bike mechanics.
I'm not planning on doing mega miles, but maybe anything up to about an hour on roads at weekends. Purely for pleasure.
Currently, I have the '94 P7, A 2000 P7 (which I bought as the other one was getting tired), and now a Dahon Matrix as I have to use a train as part of my commute, and can't take a non-folding bike on there.
The Dahon is my regular commuter bike and I ride it most days. But it's heavy and not great outside of my commute.
I've not ridden the old P7 in 13 years, and not ridden the new(er) one in about five. There's no point keeping them all (even though I have the room) and as the 94 is a classic, I'm loathe to get rid of it for a cheap road bike.
I actually thought I might cannibalise the newer one for parts (even though it wouldn't then be 'retro') just to get it up and running again. And to teach myself more about bike mechanics.
I'm not planning on doing mega miles, but maybe anything up to about an hour on roads at weekends. Purely for pleasure.
Currently using this to commute and do some road-based training...
Its a 2006 Giant XTC Zero with rigid carbon MTB forks, J7 brakes, and Crossride wheelset shod with decent 1.5" slicks. Entertaining way to trundle about the urban jungle, not worrying about the potholes, and enjoying keeping up with roadies. Provides enough of a workout to make 80-100km on the road feel like a long way.
Not at all aero and you'd go a lot further in 3 hours on a road bike, but you'd be stuck with a bike that was just good for the road, meaning you couldn't just explore that trail you just passed... Have taken it in its current guise around a reasonably challenging off-road circuit and, jeez, does it test your skills.
Its a 2006 Giant XTC Zero with rigid carbon MTB forks, J7 brakes, and Crossride wheelset shod with decent 1.5" slicks. Entertaining way to trundle about the urban jungle, not worrying about the potholes, and enjoying keeping up with roadies. Provides enough of a workout to make 80-100km on the road feel like a long way.
Not at all aero and you'd go a lot further in 3 hours on a road bike, but you'd be stuck with a bike that was just good for the road, meaning you couldn't just explore that trail you just passed... Have taken it in its current guise around a reasonably challenging off-road circuit and, jeez, does it test your skills.
I conveted my old 1992 Orange P7 for road use a few years ago. (edit. Actually about 6 years ago now i think about it)
I got lighter wheels and slicks
Swapped the RockShox Indy SL forks back for the original rigid forks
Put on some curved bar ends (kinda like aero bars, but not as good. But they did allow me to hunker down over the bars, and they were free as they were languishing in a drawer).
Took off the Crud catcher
And that was about it.
Used to do about 75-100 miles per week on it commuting and a weekend ride.
Then some scrote nicked it.
I got lighter wheels and slicks
Swapped the RockShox Indy SL forks back for the original rigid forks
Put on some curved bar ends (kinda like aero bars, but not as good. But they did allow me to hunker down over the bars, and they were free as they were languishing in a drawer).
Took off the Crud catcher
And that was about it.
Used to do about 75-100 miles per week on it commuting and a weekend ride.
Then some scrote nicked it.
Thanks for the comments so far.
I think what I will probably do is cannibalise my 2000 P7 for parts, and build up my old one.
While it won't be retro, it will be the better bike for what I want. At which point, I could sell the newer frame on ebay.
I think.
I may well change my mind tomorrow.
I think what I will probably do is cannibalise my 2000 P7 for parts, and build up my old one.
While it won't be retro, it will be the better bike for what I want. At which point, I could sell the newer frame on ebay.
I think.
I may well change my mind tomorrow.
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