First run on a road bike - raises questions!

[Spudmaster]

Having got back into cycling on my cube LTD race hardtail these last 12 months after 10 years+, I had my first proper go on a road bike this Monday.

One of my colleagues roped me into a 40 mile charity ride, but I wasn't looking forward to trying to keep up on the MTB with the others who were all on road bikes, so scrounged off my neighbour and borrowed his heavily-used ribble (???) bike that he uses to commute 20 miles daily. He did offer his brand new carbon bike but I felt that was rather brave of him and declined...

So i took it out for a 8 mile loop on Sunday, initially finding it rather wobbly, bumpy, uncomfortable and sh*te brakes... Was almost tempted to say sod it and take the Cube.... But given that I did it in 30 minutes rather than 37 on MTB, decided otherwise...

Anyway, 4 of us set out monday evening and probably within 5 miles I was more convinced... The effort vs. distance reward is huge vs. MTB- on a smooth surface, the whole thing is incredibly smooth and unbelievably quiet! Once you get yourself on a roll, it is incredibly satisfying with a much greater sensation of speed. We averaged 14.5mph over the distance, though to be fair it was all on back roads- maxed out at 42mph on a downhill stretch where I would (optimistically) have hit 32 on the cube. Feedback from my mates was that I didn't lack confidence!!! By the end i was hooked....

The others had some smart bikes and intimated that the borrowed bike, whilst adequate, was not the greatest.

Now, I am really enjoying the MTB thing and aim to do 25-35 mile rides on a Saturday morning with another shorter ride in the week- nothing really extreme- forest and farm tracks, some hillier stuff and lots of back lanes in between- we are very lucky where we live and I am able to do a 6 mile route fom my front door with only 300m of Tarmac.

Having always thought that road cycling looked rather boring in comparison- I could now be seriously tempted to have a dabble and get involved in both forms (£££ allowing)- so, a few questions:

- was the ribble representive of 'proper' road cycling?
- I love my cube - nicely specced, feels fast and ost c. £1k- what would be a suitable road 'equivalent'?
- the next day I had very stiff and achey neck and shoulders- I assume this is down to fit? (My neighbour is a very different shape to me and we made very few adjustments)
- in terms of effort / performance / distance how do the two disciplines compare on road?
- having never used SPD pedals before, I used my flats- o they really make that much difference and how long ones it take before you stop falling over at every junction / stop?
- the brakes really were sh*te- is that likely to be specific to the bike or generally the case with road bikes?

Very subjective questions I know, but any tips and pointers much appreciated!

Thanks in advance

[Jimbo.]

C'est bon!

- If it had skinny tyres and curly-wurly bars and felt best on tarmac, then it was "proper" road cycling. Brand, material etc do not matter one iota

- Plenty of choice around £1K: all reasonably similar group sets, wheels etc, so a lot of it will come to what fits, what's in stock, what hoods/shifters you like etc, etc.

- Could well be! Far too many variables, but massively differences in rider/rider set-up and time on a road bike will account for a lot.

- MTB vs. road: for the same given effort, road is faster/you go further. And on a road bike you can push yourself harder for longer (for as long as the road/your legs last, basically), whereas on an MTB you're often slowing/stopping/starting, stopping for photos, stopping to post on Singletrackworld etc, etc.

- SPDs/clipless make a big difference You'll adapt so quickly you'll soon be wondering what all the fuss is about. And then you'll spud-dump.

- The brakes may not be as powerful outright as your MTB's discs, but they're more than sufficient for a road bike. Set-up also plays a big part. However, braking just slows you down, so stay off them!

Spudmaster said:

Having always thought that road cycling looked rather boring in comparison- I could now be seriously tempted to have a dabble and get involved in both forms (£££ allowing)- so, a few questions:

- was the ribble representive of 'proper' road cycling?
- I love my cube - nicely specced, feels fast and ost c. £1k- what would be a suitable road 'equivalent'?
- the next day I had very stiff and achey neck and shoulders- I assume this is down to fit? (My neighbour is a very different shape to me and we made very few adjustments)
- in terms of effort / performance / distance how do the two disciplines compare on road?
- having never used SPD pedals before, I used my flats- o they really make that much difference and how long ones it take before you stop falling over at every junction / stop?
- the brakes really were sh*te- is that likely to be specific to the bike or generally the case with road bikes?

Very subjective questions I know, but any tips and pointers much appreciated!

Thanks in advance

[HurryUpAndWait]

Spudmaster said:

- the next day I had very stiff and achey neck and shoulders- I assume this is down to fit? (My neighbour is a very different shape to me and we made very few adjustments)
Thanks in advance

You'd have been riding in quite a different position from what you're used to. I suspect that while it won't have been an optimal fit, the general position of leaning over the front of the bike and thus having to use neck / top of the back muscles to look up to see where you were going would account for the stiffness the next day. That's something I used to have problems with, but gradually got better as I adapted. I only really get that when going out for a fair few hours now.

Road riding - it's fun though right! Different from MTB obviously, but with it's own attractions - the speed is addictive

Around the £1k mark there's plenty of competition, but they'll be some sort of compromise between the (perceived) quality of the frame, groupset and wheels. Ribble offers some seemingly good value bikes around this price-point, as do Boardman. That's if you're not a brand snob!

[Gizmoish]

"- SPDs/clipless make a big difference You'll adapt so quickly you'll soon be wondering what all the fuss is about. And then you'll spud-dump."

Ain't that the truth the first few times you go out, it'll be at the top of your mind at every junction. Then you'll go out for a lovely long ride, forget all about them, and go down like a fainting goat outside the pub.

[Mr Will]

Spudmaster said:

- was the ribble representive of 'proper' road cycling?

Certainly. It's the activity not the bike (within reason).

Spudmaster said:

- I love my cube - nicely specced, feels fast and ost c. £1k- what would be a suitable road 'equivalent'?

£300 is the cheapest (new) worth looking at (B'twin Triban 3), £600 gets you a decent bike from the big names, £1000 there's a world of choice and some very good bikes. For reference the Ribble you were riding starts at just under £600.

Spudmaster said:

- the next day I had very stiff and achey neck and shoulders- I assume this is down to fit? (My neighbour is a very different shape to me and we made very few adjustments)

Fit matters, as does adjusting to the position. Aches and pains are not normal once you are used to it.

Spudmaster said:

- in terms of effort / performance / distance how do the two disciplines compare on road?

I find it easier to put in a consistent effort on a road bike, especially with a few decent hills. Obviously they are significantly faster as well.

Spudmaster said:

- having never used SPD pedals before, I used my flats- o they really make that much difference and how long ones it take before you stop falling over at every junction / stop?

SPD's are wonderful, more from a feel point of view that performance. I don't know anyone who's regretted the switch.

Spudmaster said:

- the brakes really were sh*te- is that likely to be specific to the bike or generally the case with road bikes?

They require a bit more force but well adjusted road brakes with decent pads (i.e. with metal holders) are fine. Will lock the back wheel or stand the bike on it's front wheel if required. Cheap pads on tired brakes and dirty wheels are a different matter and require a bit more anticipation.

[Bobley]

Just done my first 15 mile commute on my new road bike today after 3 years of MTB commuting. It worked out c. 15% faster speed but I had to take a 1 mile detour as I couldn't go my usual route down the canal towpath - I still got to work in less time though.

In terms of fitting the bike, have a look on youtube at these useful videos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=fvwp&v=Sm...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAl_5e7bIHk

I found after my first test ride on wednesday that my thumbs were hurting and my neck is a little stiff and it appears that my setup is a little too long for me. As far as I can tell from the manufacturers sizing guide I need a large based on my inside leg but I could've gone medium based on my height so my first step is to fit a 90mm stem instead of the stock 120mm version. Hopefully that'll allow me to sit up a little and take some load of the thumbs and let me get my hands around the levers a little more.

[Vladimir]

Don't run on a road bike. It doesn't work ;-)

[Gizmoish]

Bobley said:

I found after my first test ride on wednesday that my thumbs were hurting and my neck is a little stiff and it appears that my setup is a little too long for me. As far as I can tell from the manufacturers sizing guide I need a large based on my inside leg but I could've gone medium based on my height so my first step is to fit a 90mm stem instead of the stock 120mm version. Hopefully that'll allow me to sit up a little and take some load of the thumbs and let me get my hands around the levers a little more.

Minor threadjack, but if you're getting numbness in the hands, try moving your saddle back just a little, even if you feel a bit overstretched at the moment. Sticking your bum further back relative to the the pedals means more of your weight is on the saddle and less on the bars. Having said that 120mm is above-average stem length so maybe it's worth changing that too

[Silver940]

I borrowed a Road bike last September having ridden MTB for a few years every weekend and during the week. I was hooked, bought an entry level Felt in October time for £625. All the bike I need currently, done 1350 miles on it now.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/felt-z95-sora-2013/?lang=e...


I love the distance you can cover and the personal challenge of getting the average speed up. Best so far is 53miles@19.7mph round the New Forest recently. it's fun in a different way

i still ride MTB too, I love doing both. The road bike fitness has really helped the fun of off road too.

[louiebaby]

When I was a good bit younger, I had a MTB, and was new to the road bike world.

Now I consider myself a roadie with an MTB, rather than the other way round.

I enjoy the different aspects of both, but lack the skills and titanium danglers to do some of the nutter downhill off road stuff. (Yet think nothing of 50mph on the road.)

Maybe I'm a bit odd...

[Bobley]

Gizmoish said:

Minor threadjack, but if you're getting numbness in the hands, try moving your saddle back just a little, even if you feel a bit overstretched at the moment. Sticking your bum further back relative to the the pedals means more of your weight is on the saddle and less on the bars. Having said that 120mm is above-average stem length so maybe it's worth changing that too

I see what you're saying there. I'll give it a go.

[doolie]

I have little to add except to say I was in a similar position last year. I now have the mtb and a Trek Roadie. I love both disciplines, probably slightly in favour of the mtb and trails, but you can't beat a Roadie on the black stuff.

The new Boardman Carbon ltd is on special til Monday. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/...

[Bobley]

That is a bargain. Especially if you use a British cycling 10% off voucher. I got the regular team carbon on Tuesday for £1116 with the £60 off offer and a voucher.