Discussion
Buy one...
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/SearchResults.a...
...then follow the simple instructions for use. This will give you an idea of when the float between the pins and the rollers goes from being "meh, it's still ok" to "oh dear, I need a new chain". Used regularly this simple tool will allow you to save money on changing cassettes more often than strictly necessary, by swapping the chain BEFORE it causes excessive wear to the rest of the drive train.
Too much 'float' on the rollers is usually caused by worn pins. The wear is hidden by the rollers, but when it gets beyond a certain point it can cause a chain to snap. It is also important to have a good chain cleaning/lubrication regime, to get the best out of your components.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/SearchResults.a...
...then follow the simple instructions for use. This will give you an idea of when the float between the pins and the rollers goes from being "meh, it's still ok" to "oh dear, I need a new chain". Used regularly this simple tool will allow you to save money on changing cassettes more often than strictly necessary, by swapping the chain BEFORE it causes excessive wear to the rest of the drive train.
Too much 'float' on the rollers is usually caused by worn pins. The wear is hidden by the rollers, but when it gets beyond a certain point it can cause a chain to snap. It is also important to have a good chain cleaning/lubrication regime, to get the best out of your components.
Alternatively, the quick'n'dirty way of checking chain wear:
Bang it on the big ring (sur la plaque
)
go to the front of the ring and lift the chain away - if you can see daylight between the top of the points on the ring and the chain, it's knackered - if it doesn't lift clear of the points it's good.
Bang it on the big ring (sur la plaque
)go to the front of the ring and lift the chain away - if you can see daylight between the top of the points on the ring and the chain, it's knackered - if it doesn't lift clear of the points it's good.
+1 on the chain wear tool. Cheap, simple, easy to use, effective.
(a) chains are cheaper than cassettes and wear more quickly than cassettes
(b) a worn chain wears cassettes and chainrings more quickly
(c) a dirty chain with a paste of grease and road grit grinding between the plates and pins wears more quickly than a clean one
Some people swear by those chain cleaning tools, but personally I clean the chain by taking it off, dunking it on an empty 4 litre milk container with a pint of petrol/diesel/white spirit/parafin/whatever, give it a good shake, then leave to soak for a day or so, shake again, remove, dry and relube.
Put an old gear/brake cable through a link of the chain so you can get it out easily.
Decant the dirty petrol/whatever into another milk container through a pieve of kitchen towel and you can re-use the petrol 3 or 4 times.
Having multiple chains in rotation means that you have a clean one ready to go whilst you leave the dirty one to soak.
I re-use chain connectors when I refit the chain which some say is a false economy but I haven't had one go ping yet.
fid said:
Thanks chaps. There is a fair bit of float, never noticed it before but I think it's enough to be noisy now. Slightly scared of it snapping on me. New chain and cleaning regime needed I think!
Opinions on cleaning regimes differ - but I like to buy 3 chains every time I need to change the cassette and rotate them every few weeks on the basis that:(a) chains are cheaper than cassettes and wear more quickly than cassettes
(b) a worn chain wears cassettes and chainrings more quickly
(c) a dirty chain with a paste of grease and road grit grinding between the plates and pins wears more quickly than a clean one
Some people swear by those chain cleaning tools, but personally I clean the chain by taking it off, dunking it on an empty 4 litre milk container with a pint of petrol/diesel/white spirit/parafin/whatever, give it a good shake, then leave to soak for a day or so, shake again, remove, dry and relube.
Put an old gear/brake cable through a link of the chain so you can get it out easily.
Decant the dirty petrol/whatever into another milk container through a pieve of kitchen towel and you can re-use the petrol 3 or 4 times.
Having multiple chains in rotation means that you have a clean one ready to go whilst you leave the dirty one to soak.
I re-use chain connectors when I refit the chain which some say is a false economy but I haven't had one go ping yet.
bert11 said:
just changed a chain after 4000 miles all-weather use, and compared the old and new chain lengths side by side.
The old chain was half a link longer than the new chain. I didn't realise they stretched so much!
With that ammount of wear I'm suprised you're not getting slip when you put any pressure your new chain. It's like having a slipping clutch when you have a new chain and worn gears.The old chain was half a link longer than the new chain. I didn't realise they stretched so much!
Vladimir said:
A worn out chain will also prematurely wear out your cassette and chain rings. Worth changing quite often.
What this man says! I started to get the dreaded 'chain slip' on my outer chainring a few rides ago, I noticed that the teeth were getting pretty sharp, so thought it was about time to replace the worn ring and chain at the same time. Fitted them tonight and went for a quick test ride, and......... now the new chain slips on the other worn rings and the cassette!
DOH! Now I need to replace the other bits at quite a considerable expense! Lesson learned to replace the chain regularly for the sake of 25 quid - BEFORE the other, dearer bits get worn!
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