Setting up a Turbo Trainer...
Discussion
My Tacx Satori turned out to be goosed so I exchanged it today and have set it all up and had a wee go.
Now I've got some questions but there seems to be dearth of info about these things so any advice appreciated from those who use them already.
1) How tight against the rear tyre ought the roller to be? I don't want to overly wear or damage the tyre but equally don't want slippage. Is there a method for calibrating this?
2) What gear should I ride in when I'm on it?
3) How can I ensure that it's setup to the same levels of resistance each time (taking into account the fact that each time I setup, it'll be slightly different levels of resistance due to various factors? Is there a method of calibrating this?
Apologies for the questions but appreciate any advice...
Thanks!
Now I've got some questions but there seems to be dearth of info about these things so any advice appreciated from those who use them already.
1) How tight against the rear tyre ought the roller to be? I don't want to overly wear or damage the tyre but equally don't want slippage. Is there a method for calibrating this?
2) What gear should I ride in when I'm on it?
3) How can I ensure that it's setup to the same levels of resistance each time (taking into account the fact that each time I setup, it'll be slightly different levels of resistance due to various factors? Is there a method of calibrating this?
Apologies for the questions but appreciate any advice...
Thanks!
Did you get another Tacx Satori? Im fairly new to turbo trainers myself but in relation to tyre wear, i'd recommend a turbo trainer tyre which will not wear that fast. I got a vittoria one of planet x for about £18. For the resistance, the tacx come with a few different brackets depending on your wheel size so as long as you fit the right one it should be ok. I tend to vary my resistance nearer to the easier end of the ten settings and work my way through the more difficult gears depending on how fit I feel but as time goes on I will run it on more resistance.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
I have a Tacx Satori. In terms of the roller pressure against the tyre, first make sure that the tyre is pumped up near to its maximum rating - this will minimise wear. A turbo-specific tyre is generally quieter and will wear less than a normal tyre but they are not absolutely necessary.
To set the roller pressure I usually start off very light and then do a few hard and fast revolutions of the pedals (not with your hands). If the tyre slips (wheelspins) then increase the pressure a touch and repeat until it no longer slips. I find on mine that the roller will depress the tyre slightly once engaged but it shouldn't be crushing the tyre.
Regarding gear choice, I tend to keep the resistance lever fixed on 3 or 4 and then alter gears, this is simply to avoid wearing one cog more than the rest but it probably doesn't matter.
To set the roller pressure I usually start off very light and then do a few hard and fast revolutions of the pedals (not with your hands). If the tyre slips (wheelspins) then increase the pressure a touch and repeat until it no longer slips. I find on mine that the roller will depress the tyre slightly once engaged but it shouldn't be crushing the tyre.
Regarding gear choice, I tend to keep the resistance lever fixed on 3 or 4 and then alter gears, this is simply to avoid wearing one cog more than the rest but it probably doesn't matter.
Edited by nammynake on Monday 12th November 23:41
Cheers Kenny - I did indeed get another Satori and it's working a lot better!
I'm not going to be able to fit a special tyre unfortunately, as it's my only road bike and I'll be using it for road riding as well, when I can.
The bracket is the right size for my tyre, but the resistance roller can also be manually tightened or loosened to increase or decrease the pressure against the tyre so not sure how 'squeezed' it should be, if that makes sense?
But generally it sounds like you're saying you have the unit resistance set to easy and use the bike gears to make things tough?
At the moment, I'm 'sprinting' at around 7 or 8 on the machine, only a couple of gears down from top, so not huge scope to make it much harder - maybe I need to tighten the roller against the tyre??
I'm not going to be able to fit a special tyre unfortunately, as it's my only road bike and I'll be using it for road riding as well, when I can.
The bracket is the right size for my tyre, but the resistance roller can also be manually tightened or loosened to increase or decrease the pressure against the tyre so not sure how 'squeezed' it should be, if that makes sense?
But generally it sounds like you're saying you have the unit resistance set to easy and use the bike gears to make things tough?
At the moment, I'm 'sprinting' at around 7 or 8 on the machine, only a couple of gears down from top, so not huge scope to make it much harder - maybe I need to tighten the roller against the tyre??
The roller only needs to be tight enough against the wheel to stop the tyre slipping or squealing, and in practice that's only a very slight compression on the tyre. If you get too much pressure then firstly you'll find it much harder/noisier than it should be at any given level, and secondly you'll wear out the tyre rapidly with rubber dust everywhere and also a groove in the roller. (seriously, it will).
I've got a tacx flow that has a calibration mode, but it's nothing clever and you could do the same with any turbo. The idea is you set a fixed tyre pressure, ride for a few minutes to warm up the tread & then take it to a set speed at a minimal resistance level - say 20mph. Stop pedaling and time how long the wheel takes to stop, dead simple. If it takes longer than "standard" then increase the pressure, if it stops quicker, decrease the pressure. Your session is then directly comparable to previous ones and you have no excuses....
I've got a tacx flow that has a calibration mode, but it's nothing clever and you could do the same with any turbo. The idea is you set a fixed tyre pressure, ride for a few minutes to warm up the tread & then take it to a set speed at a minimal resistance level - say 20mph. Stop pedaling and time how long the wheel takes to stop, dead simple. If it takes longer than "standard" then increase the pressure, if it stops quicker, decrease the pressure. Your session is then directly comparable to previous ones and you have no excuses....
the Satori is a great trainer.
I have my winter bike fixed to it, but I bought a cheap ally wheel and fitted a turbo trainer tyre (by conti.) to it. So setting it up takes only a couple of minutes to swap the rear wheel over and off you go.
The wheel should just apply enough pressure so the wheel doesnt slip. Its not that firm.
Gears wise, i tend to work all through my gears depending on what sort of session i want.
I follow carmichael training DVD's,
Warm up Res level 1-2
Intervals Res Level 4-5
Hill Climb Res Level 7-10
Doing 7 x 5 minute intervals with 2 minutes recovery on level 10 out of the saddle is a fantastic workout!
I have my winter bike fixed to it, but I bought a cheap ally wheel and fitted a turbo trainer tyre (by conti.) to it. So setting it up takes only a couple of minutes to swap the rear wheel over and off you go.
The wheel should just apply enough pressure so the wheel doesnt slip. Its not that firm.
Gears wise, i tend to work all through my gears depending on what sort of session i want.
I follow carmichael training DVD's,
Warm up Res level 1-2
Intervals Res Level 4-5
Hill Climb Res Level 7-10
Doing 7 x 5 minute intervals with 2 minutes recovery on level 10 out of the saddle is a fantastic workout!
Thanks guys-now I'm concerned though...
When I set it up last night, I don't *think* it was slipping and it seemed relatively easy at res 7 in a really high gear.
I expected that up towards that end you'd be looking at proper grinding, out the seat stuff but you could keep spinning ok??
How hard should they be? Surely I've not got two duds in a row!
When I set it up last night, I don't *think* it was slipping and it seemed relatively easy at res 7 in a really high gear.
I expected that up towards that end you'd be looking at proper grinding, out the seat stuff but you could keep spinning ok??
How hard should they be? Surely I've not got two duds in a row!
Holy thread revival Batman!
A mate has just given me a Tacx Satori which I am going to use as a first step into the world of turbo training.
I'm aware that in the decade since this thread was created that the world has moved on, lots of people (like my pal) are onto smart trainers but I'm happy with what I've been given gratis. My main aim is to use it for cardio fitness and weight loss over the winter months rather than being a 'serious' cyclist.
Any recommendations for some free training plans? A brief scan of YouTube shows that the GCN channel has some decent quality videos.
A mate has just given me a Tacx Satori which I am going to use as a first step into the world of turbo training.
I'm aware that in the decade since this thread was created that the world has moved on, lots of people (like my pal) are onto smart trainers but I'm happy with what I've been given gratis. My main aim is to use it for cardio fitness and weight loss over the winter months rather than being a 'serious' cyclist.
Any recommendations for some free training plans? A brief scan of YouTube shows that the GCN channel has some decent quality videos.
i have an old magnetic TT that i use if i need too.
i don't watch or follow any training plans but i follow some basics in my head - warm up, gradually increase the resistance to 7 (1-9) and i find that to be my usual rate. Then do some interval training where i stand up and....hold the rear brake on to increase the resistance to a level that requires MAJOR effort and count to my desired interval, then release and sit back down.
not exactly scientific but does the job
i don't watch or follow any training plans but i follow some basics in my head - warm up, gradually increase the resistance to 7 (1-9) and i find that to be my usual rate. Then do some interval training where i stand up and....hold the rear brake on to increase the resistance to a level that requires MAJOR effort and count to my desired interval, then release and sit back down.
not exactly scientific but does the job
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