Road Bikes and punctures
Road Bikes and punctures
Author
Discussion

Gad-Westy

Original Poster:

16,568 posts

242 months

Thursday 25th October 2012
quotequote all
Hi all. I've just bought my first roadbike, having always had had MTB's in the past. I often cycle to work and I'm no stranger to the odd puncture. On my MTB I always carried a spare inner tube and the tyres were large enough that I could replace an inner tube at the side of the road in 5 minutes without tools. Consequently I never gave punctures much thought as they were little more than a bit inconvenient.

Now that I have a road bike, I'm thinking about punctures much more as the spindly tyres somehow look more vulnerable and it looks like the tyres will be harder to get on an off the rims to change inner tubes.

I'd like to know how other people approach this in terms of the following:

1) Avoiding punctures in the first place. I see there are a tyres that claim additional puncture resistance. Are these any good? I'd rather not fork out for new tyres straight away but I'd certainly bear them in mind. I've also seen tyre liners etc as well but never used anything like that before. How about the self repairing inner tubes?

2) Repairing a puncture. I can see two options, carry an inner tube or carry a can of tyre foam. I've never used the latter on a bike. Is it effective?

3) Pump. I don't think mine is up to the job of road bike pressures and I'm not sure that it has the right valve fitting. Any recommendations for something inexpensive and lightweight?

Thanks in advance.

anonymous-user

83 months

Thursday 25th October 2012
quotequote all
Personally I opt for more puncture resistant tyre, Schwalbe Marathon plus in my case. Sure they are heavier than lightweight tyres, but any time losses are negligible in real life. If it avoids 1 puncture a month your journey average will be quicker!!
The slime/foams are not up to road tyre pressures in my experience, I did experiment with them (failed miserably)

PHmember

2,487 posts

200 months

Thursday 25th October 2012
quotequote all
Having come from MTBs to road bikes myself I was in the same boat last year - especially with regard to how easy it would be to change a tube at the side of the road. Best thing to do is just try it at home, I was surprised to find I could get the tyre on & off easily with only one tyre lever, so I now have a spare tube & 1 tyre lever stuffed under my saddle. Bought a nice little pump for about £20 & it's tucked out of the way nicely on the seat tube. It might not be able to manage 100psi, but it'll be enough to safely get me home if needed.

shouldbworking

4,801 posts

241 months

Thursday 25th October 2012
quotequote all
I am able to change a road bike tube at home on the sofa in about 15 minutes. However, in the event I am out riding to get somewhere and get a puncture this time will inexplicably double.

Tougher tyres and a decent pump are the order of the day. I used to use a £10 crank bros mini pump which would manage 40 psi at a push, but could be hidden in a pocket. I have now accepted that a pump mounted on the downtube is ok and have a lezyne hp drive there.

Rocksteadyeddie

7,971 posts

256 months

Thursday 25th October 2012
quotequote all
Good advice above. Keep your tyres in decent condition. I have a general rule that two punctures within a week or so = new tyres. Also worth trying Stans as changing tyres in sub-zero temperatures is never fun.

donfisher

793 posts

195 months

Thursday 25th October 2012
quotequote all
Gad-Westy said:
3) Pump. I don't think mine is up to the job of road bike pressures and I'm not sure that it has the right valve fitting. Any recommendations for something inexpensive and lightweight?
Quite often they have a bit that you reverse that switches the valve fitting.

I’ve found that [touches wood] carrying enough stuff to fix any sort of puncture has meant I’ve never actually needed to fix one.

Puncture resistant tyres are the key. In my bag while commuting I’ve got a spare tube, some patches and some levers. As far as a pump goes I’ve got an old Specialized MTB air tool mini that is pretty unsuitable really, It’s obviously nowhere near as good as a track pump but is sufficient to get the tyre up to a useable pressure and I’m never that far from either home or work where there are several bike shops that kindly keep a track pump outside. CO2 pumps are probably the way forward.

To reiterate though, a decent tyre will save you more time than it costs you in average speed through not getting the puncture in the first place.

ewenm

28,506 posts

274 months

Thursday 25th October 2012
quotequote all
Arm in air, Mavic neutral service bike will give you a new wheel, 30s later you're back chasing down that Strava segment title wink


Or just tougher tyres and spare tube, levers and pump

Mr Gear

9,416 posts

219 months

Thursday 25th October 2012
quotequote all
1) http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...

2) http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...

3) http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?Mod...

Job done. And as for the Gatorskins: yes, they are good. Not as racey as a race tyre, but incredibly puncture-proof in my experience.

Rocksteadyeddie

7,971 posts

256 months

Thursday 25th October 2012
quotequote all
ewenm said:
Arm in air, Mavic neutral service bike will give you a new wheel, 30s later you're back chasing down that Strava segment title wink


Or just tougher tyres and spare tube, levers and pump
hehe

Gad-Westy

Original Poster:

16,568 posts

242 months

Thursday 25th October 2012
quotequote all
Cheers all. Loads of great info here to wade through.

dharte

104 posts

180 months

Thursday 25th October 2012
quotequote all
I found I had loads of punctures when I first bought my road bike, so I invested in some Continental Gator Hardshells and they have been fantastic. I still carry one or two spare inner tubes with me (depending on the length of the ride) and a £20 pump should be fine to inflate the tyres enough to get you home.




...I'll probably get a puncture on the way home now!!

Jayfish

6,795 posts

232 months

Thursday 25th October 2012
quotequote all
I keep one of these http://www.lezyne.com/products/co2-systems/c02-inf... a spare tube, levers, patches, a second C02 cartridge and two cr3202 batteries for my rear light in a tiny saddle bag.

Get Karter

1,950 posts

230 months

Thursday 25th October 2012
quotequote all
Road tyres are definitely tougher to remove and refit than mtb ones, but if you have tyre levers you will be ok.
Just remember not to nip the replacement inner tube between inner-rim and tyre bead when refitting!

Rouleur

7,416 posts

218 months

Thursday 25th October 2012
quotequote all
My top tip is to talc your tyres and tubes including spares as it makes them slide against each other and much easier to fit, especially when you get to the last few inches and the tube's refusing to squeeze in. It also reduces the chance of the tube getting trapped in the bead and puncturing.

I use one of these http://www.wiggle.co.uk/genuine-innovations-ultraf... with cartidges from ebay, it works very well and the head on its own weighs nothing and takes up very little space.

Edited by Rouleur on Thursday 25th October 15:25

PHmember

2,487 posts

200 months

Thursday 25th October 2012
quotequote all
Get Karter said:
Just remember not to nip the replacement inner tube between inner-rim and tyre bead when refitting!
Putting a little bit of air into the inner-tube before putting the tyre back onto the rim will make it easier to avoid pinching the inner-tube.

a boardman

1,316 posts

229 months

Thursday 25th October 2012
quotequote all
Get Karter said:
Road tyres are definitely tougher to remove and refit than mtb ones, but if you have tyre levers you will be ok.
Just remember not to nip the replacement inner tube between inner-rim and tyre bead when refitting!
that happened to me on sunday, hit a pothole hard even with gatorskin tyre on got a puncture. repaired the holes 2 close together missed the second one and had to remove first patch and used up my puncture repair kit, put the tyre back on and nipped the inner tube had to phone brother to come out with spare inner tube.

when I got home made sure the spare inner tube was under the seat along with gas refiller.

Rick101

7,189 posts

179 months

Thursday 25th October 2012
quotequote all
I found Gatorskin Hardshell tyres particularly effective.

anonymous-user

83 months

Thursday 25th October 2012
quotequote all
Jayfish said:
I keep one of these http://www.lezyne.com/products/co2-systems/c02-inf... a spare tube, levers, patches, a second C02 cartridge and two cr3202 batteries for my rear light in a tiny saddle bag.
This is the answer. But with some brute force and careful folding I can get that lot plus a second inner tube and a set of Allen keys into the smallest saddle bag Spesh to TopPeak do.

Except for the patches. Carry money and a CC for when the Gods really decide to p!ss all over your day.

R500POP

9,073 posts

239 months

Friday 26th October 2012
quotequote all
Rouleur said:
My top tip is to talc your tyres and tubes including spares as it makes them slide against each other and much easier to fit, especially when you get to the last few inches and the tube's refusing to squeeze in. It also reduces the chance of the tube getting trapped in the bead and puncturing.
This

Jimbo.

4,220 posts

218 months

Friday 26th October 2012
quotequote all
You're worrying over nothing. Road tyres are easy to change: as per usual, it's practice, practice, practice smile

Carry a spare tube (quicker to swap out than repair). If you wish, carry one or two get-you-home patches.
Pump or C02. I prefer CO2s: pumps never get to pressure, take an eternity and are f. hard work!

Tyres: whatever you want. Don't lumber yourself with heavy, puncture-resitant (as much as can be...) tyres, as they'll be horrible to ride in the first place. Heavy and sluggish.