Marin Mill Valley
Discussion
Hi All,
This year I've started getting into riding sportives a bit, which is something I've not done before. I've got a Marin Mill Valley which I use for that and commuting.
Next year, I'd like to try and start making my finish times a little more competitive. To that end, do you think that a transition to a new road bike is worth considering at some stage? All in all, I'm pretty happy with the Marin, but having no distance riding on a "pure" road bike, I was wondering if it was likely to make that much difference?
I know the geometry is slightly different, but my understanding is that there isn't really any difference in either gearing or rolling resistance. Given I'm a relative beginner, would I get that much benefit out of it?
This year I've started getting into riding sportives a bit, which is something I've not done before. I've got a Marin Mill Valley which I use for that and commuting.
Next year, I'd like to try and start making my finish times a little more competitive. To that end, do you think that a transition to a new road bike is worth considering at some stage? All in all, I'm pretty happy with the Marin, but having no distance riding on a "pure" road bike, I was wondering if it was likely to make that much difference?
I know the geometry is slightly different, but my understanding is that there isn't really any difference in either gearing or rolling resistance. Given I'm a relative beginner, would I get that much benefit out of it?
If you're happy with what you've got, you should probably stick with it. As you have already stated, there's no real difference in the gearing, as you're already probably running a 50/34 compact with 12/28 cassette.
The only real benefit to you from switching to a 'proper' road bike would be for the comfort/convenience of having a number of different hand positions so that you could relieve some of the inevitable aches and fatigue you'll run into over a long event.
If you are not already using them, you could try a pair of 'proper' cycling shoes and SPD or SPD-SL style pedals, and it may benefit you to reduce rolling resistance by fitting narrower tyres than you current 28c's (23c or 25c), although I have read some stuff on t'interweb and the cycling press to suggest there is evidence that 28c tyres won't cost you in effort/resistance.
Just buy a saddle pack to carry a puncture kit and basic tools, carry a pump and a couple of spare tubes, stuff your pockets with food, add 2 bottles and cages and enjoy! It's not just about the bike, and you may well find that you ride your chosen event quicker than the next guy on the carbon bling dream machine, enjoy it more, and spend less. There are two ways to measure the cost of cycling - pence per mile, or smiles per mile. One lightens your wallet, the other gladdens your heart.
The only real benefit to you from switching to a 'proper' road bike would be for the comfort/convenience of having a number of different hand positions so that you could relieve some of the inevitable aches and fatigue you'll run into over a long event.
If you are not already using them, you could try a pair of 'proper' cycling shoes and SPD or SPD-SL style pedals, and it may benefit you to reduce rolling resistance by fitting narrower tyres than you current 28c's (23c or 25c), although I have read some stuff on t'interweb and the cycling press to suggest there is evidence that 28c tyres won't cost you in effort/resistance.
Just buy a saddle pack to carry a puncture kit and basic tools, carry a pump and a couple of spare tubes, stuff your pockets with food, add 2 bottles and cages and enjoy! It's not just about the bike, and you may well find that you ride your chosen event quicker than the next guy on the carbon bling dream machine, enjoy it more, and spend less. There are two ways to measure the cost of cycling - pence per mile, or smiles per mile. One lightens your wallet, the other gladdens your heart.
Thanks for the comments Yellowjack, you're probably right that in practice it's a bit more than just the bike I'm using that makes the difference (especially judging by the sheer variance in finish times in most sportives).
From the perspective of the other kit, I think I'm quite well prepared. Perhaps the best thing to up my times would be a turbo trainer so I can be ready once spring arrives to try and knock a bit off my times.
From the perspective of the other kit, I think I'm quite well prepared. Perhaps the best thing to up my times would be a turbo trainer so I can be ready once spring arrives to try and knock a bit off my times.
yellowjack said:
If you're happy with what you've got, you should probably stick with it. As you have already stated, there's no real difference in the gearing, as you're already probably running a 50/34 compact with 12/28 cassette.
The only real benefit to you from switching to a 'proper' road bike would be for the comfort/convenience of having a number of different hand positions so that you could relieve some of the inevitable aches and fatigue you'll run into over a long event.
If you are not already using them, you could try a pair of 'proper' cycling shoes and SPD or SPD-SL style pedals, and it may benefit you to reduce rolling resistance by fitting narrower tyres than you current 28c's (23c or 25c), although I have read some stuff on t'interweb and the cycling press to suggest there is evidence that 28c tyres won't cost you in effort/resistance.
Just buy a saddle pack to carry a puncture kit and basic tools, carry a pump and a couple of spare tubes, stuff your pockets with food, add 2 bottles and cages and enjoy! It's not just about the bike, and you may well find that you ride your chosen event quicker than the next guy on the carbon bling dream machine, enjoy it more, and spend less. There are two ways to measure the cost of cycling - pence per mile, or smiles per mile. One lightens your wallet, the other gladdens your heart.
A road bike will also put you in a more aerodynamic riding position, no matter where you place your hands (f'nar). A flat-bar bike turns turns the rider into a sail, comparatively. Makes quite a difference once the speed and/or the distance picks up.The only real benefit to you from switching to a 'proper' road bike would be for the comfort/convenience of having a number of different hand positions so that you could relieve some of the inevitable aches and fatigue you'll run into over a long event.
If you are not already using them, you could try a pair of 'proper' cycling shoes and SPD or SPD-SL style pedals, and it may benefit you to reduce rolling resistance by fitting narrower tyres than you current 28c's (23c or 25c), although I have read some stuff on t'interweb and the cycling press to suggest there is evidence that 28c tyres won't cost you in effort/resistance.
Just buy a saddle pack to carry a puncture kit and basic tools, carry a pump and a couple of spare tubes, stuff your pockets with food, add 2 bottles and cages and enjoy! It's not just about the bike, and you may well find that you ride your chosen event quicker than the next guy on the carbon bling dream machine, enjoy it more, and spend less. There are two ways to measure the cost of cycling - pence per mile, or smiles per mile. One lightens your wallet, the other gladdens your heart.
28s won't be that much slower when compared to 23s or 25s: bigger volume = deforming over bumps = lower rolling resistance. Up to a point, anyway, but 28s aren't it: 32mm+ or MTB widths and you start to feel it!
EDIT: And yes, to get more competitive, ride harder, faster, further outside of whatever event it is (remembering that sportives and the like aren't strictly "competition"). All in the training.
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