Carbon vs Alloy for circa £1500 first road bike
Discussion
Having been mountain biking for years, and having had an itch to get into road riding, it's time to bite the bullet. Price range is around the £1500 mark, and this seems to have left me with a quandry over carbon vs alloy.
The first bike I looked at, and I have to say liked a lot, is the Cannondale CAAD10, which seems like a fantastic package all round. It also felt just as light as some of the more expensive carbon offerings.
This weekend I popped into another shop, which had mainly all Cube's. These looked the part, and for around £1500 you could get carbon and a 105 groupset.
I've read a lot of threads on here discussing Planet X and Ribble. I've looked on the websites, and they do seem good value for money, but is it worth paying that little extra and having the piece of mind of buying from your LBC?
So my question is, would alloy be a better choice than carbon in my price range, and is there anything else I should be looking at? I wont be commuting, but would like to get out on the weekend for some decent distance riding, with a club eventually. Also worth noting that I'm 88kg, so not the lightest of riders, will this affect my choices, especially on wheels?
Chris.
The first bike I looked at, and I have to say liked a lot, is the Cannondale CAAD10, which seems like a fantastic package all round. It also felt just as light as some of the more expensive carbon offerings.
This weekend I popped into another shop, which had mainly all Cube's. These looked the part, and for around £1500 you could get carbon and a 105 groupset.
I've read a lot of threads on here discussing Planet X and Ribble. I've looked on the websites, and they do seem good value for money, but is it worth paying that little extra and having the piece of mind of buying from your LBC?
So my question is, would alloy be a better choice than carbon in my price range, and is there anything else I should be looking at? I wont be commuting, but would like to get out on the weekend for some decent distance riding, with a club eventually. Also worth noting that I'm 88kg, so not the lightest of riders, will this affect my choices, especially on wheels?
Chris.
Edited by ChrisMCoupe on Monday 18th June 13:12
Does it have to be BRAND new?
This is a little above your budget, but I saw another VN on Dura Ace advertised for 1500 on another forum a few weeeks ago.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Van-Nicholas-Titanium-ro...
This is a little above your budget, but I saw another VN on Dura Ace advertised for 1500 on another forum a few weeeks ago.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Van-Nicholas-Titanium-ro...
Have a look at the Dolan Ares with Sram Rival which is £1399. it has the same frame used by the pro team supported by Dolan and a better groupset than 105, all for less than £1400. You could upgrade the wheels to Aksiums and still be around the £1500 or spec it with Apex and get the Ksyriums?!?! I can not think of a better deal than this around at the moment other than Canyon or that one i found in www.bike-discount.de
http://www.dolan-bikes.com/road-bikes/Carbon/Ares%...
If the Ares looks too racey, the Hercules or Tuono might be a better choice?
http://www.dolan-bikes.com/road-bikes/Carbon/Ares%...
If the Ares looks too racey, the Hercules or Tuono might be a better choice?
Thanks for the suggestions. It seems most of you are giving me alloy suggestions, just with slightly better specs for the money over the Cannondale.
Okgo that does seem a great spec for the money, how do the Canyons compare to the more mainstream brands? I must admit I've never heard of them.
Okgo that does seem a great spec for the money, how do the Canyons compare to the more mainstream brands? I must admit I've never heard of them.
pablo said:
Have a look at the Dolan Ares with Sram Rival which is £1399. it has the same frame used by the pro team supported by Dolan and a better groupset than 105, all for less than £1400. You could upgrade the wheels to Aksiums and still be around the £1500 or spec it with Apex and get the Ksyriums?!?! I can not think of a better deal than this around at the moment other than Canyon or that one i found in www.bike-discount.de
http://www.dolan-bikes.com/road-bikes/Carbon/Ares%...
If the Ares looks too racey, the Hercules or Tuono might be a better choice?
I can confirm that Dolan's are a good spec, i've had a Hercules se with Campag Record and Ksyriums for 3 seasons now, even crashed on it a few times, still good as new, light and stiff, good geometry as well.http://www.dolan-bikes.com/road-bikes/Carbon/Ares%...
If the Ares looks too racey, the Hercules or Tuono might be a better choice?
ChrisMCoupe said:
Thanks for the suggestions. It seems most of you are giving me alloy suggestions, just with slightly better specs for the money over the Cannondale.
Okgo that does seem a great spec for the money, how do the Canyons compare to the more mainstream brands? I must admit I've never heard of them.
Don't discount the others suggested, but that one is a great buy. You couldn't buy all that kit on its own for less than that!Okgo that does seem a great spec for the money, how do the Canyons compare to the more mainstream brands? I must admit I've never heard of them.
Yeh they are good frames, used on the pro tour by a few teams, lots of people in my club ride them and the reports are always positive.
Carbon offers several benefits apart from lightness and stiffness.
First is the ability to shape the tubes and tube connections (especially the bottom bracket) to maximise stiffness in the direction the loads/forces travel. This is not possible with alloy bikes at this price break.
Second, carbon doesn't not transfer high frequency vibration so soaks up most of the high frequency 'road buzz' that is generated by riding at speed on the road surface. If you don't think is a factor, go and stand/sit/lean on a Powerplate machine for 5 minutes.
Your budget will buy you a good carbon bike, that said, there just aren't any bad ones. Bad products don't survive in our internet information age. Have a look at Planet X, Boardman, Cube, Canyon just to mention a few.
First is the ability to shape the tubes and tube connections (especially the bottom bracket) to maximise stiffness in the direction the loads/forces travel. This is not possible with alloy bikes at this price break.
Second, carbon doesn't not transfer high frequency vibration so soaks up most of the high frequency 'road buzz' that is generated by riding at speed on the road surface. If you don't think is a factor, go and stand/sit/lean on a Powerplate machine for 5 minutes.
Your budget will buy you a good carbon bike, that said, there just aren't any bad ones. Bad products don't survive in our internet information age. Have a look at Planet X, Boardman, Cube, Canyon just to mention a few.
We all know your are going to go over budget, let's not kid ourselves. So baring that in mind, this is most definetly what you want.
http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/focus-izalco-pro-it...
http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/focus-izalco-pro-it...
Dont do it..
I started looking at half decent bikes, and ended up with this :
Joking aside - you'll love it.. I love getting back from a ride, and quick wipe down of the bike, and shower, and i'm ready to move on. MTB wise its a PITA! I personally would be getting a high end allow bike for that amount of money - think you'll get more for your cash!
I started looking at half decent bikes, and ended up with this :
Joking aside - you'll love it.. I love getting back from a ride, and quick wipe down of the bike, and shower, and i'm ready to move on. MTB wise its a PITA! I personally would be getting a high end allow bike for that amount of money - think you'll get more for your cash!
Second, carbon doesn't not transfer high frequency vibration so soaks up most of the high frequency 'road buzz' that is generated by riding at speed on the road surface. If you don't think is a factor, go and stand/sit/lean on a Powerplate machine for 5 minutes
Never noticed it on my aloominum CAAD9 (a very stiff, harsh, racy frame if ever there was one), and I don't shy away from rough roads.
Tyres make a greater difference: 700c x 25mm @ 90-95psi = smoooooooth.
EDIT: To the op: buy whatever fits you best, then spec. Don't get hung up on carbon this, carbon that: at this level there's little it in. I'd rather a good aluminium frame than a similarly-priced carbon cookie-cutter/catalogue bike.
Never noticed it on my aloominum CAAD9 (a very stiff, harsh, racy frame if ever there was one), and I don't shy away from rough roads.
Tyres make a greater difference: 700c x 25mm @ 90-95psi = smoooooooth.
EDIT: To the op: buy whatever fits you best, then spec. Don't get hung up on carbon this, carbon that: at this level there's little it in. I'd rather a good aluminium frame than a similarly-priced carbon cookie-cutter/catalogue bike.
Edited by Jimbo. on Monday 18th June 20:31
okgo said:
ChrisMCoupe said:
Thanks for the suggestions. It seems most of you are giving me alloy suggestions, just with slightly better specs for the money over the Cannondale.
Okgo that does seem a great spec for the money, how do the Canyons compare to the more mainstream brands? I must admit I've never heard of them.
Don't discount the others suggested, but that one is a great buy. You couldn't buy all that kit on its own for less than that!Okgo that does seem a great spec for the money, how do the Canyons compare to the more mainstream brands? I must admit I've never heard of them.
Yeh they are good frames, used on the pro tour by a few teams, lots of people in my club ride them and the reports are always positive.
If you have a look around you should also be able to get a CAAD 10 with Dura ace ( well a Dura Ace / Ultegra mix really ) for not much more than your budget - http://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/ have it for £1650.00. That frame, with that spec really is cracking value. A bike shop local to me - Partridge Cycles, Exeter - has one on display for that price, so you may not even have to buy it blind off the web either if you phone your own LBS.
It really is a very, very highly regarded alu frame and you cant go wrong with Dura Ace.
Slight thread detour Okgo, but do any of your club mates ride the Canyon Ultimate CF SLX? Sorely tempted to treat myself to one later this season, but yet to see one in the flesh or speak to someone that has.
Cycling Plus recently did a big group test on bikes in the £1-2k bracket. Their top five were:
Canyon Ultimate Al 9.0
Cube Agree GTC Race
Focus Izalco Pro 3.0
Giant TCR Advanced 3
Trek Madone 3.5.
Focus won. Here's the test
There are a lot of generalisations thrown around about frame material. Bottom line is that a badly engineered frame in any material will ride like a dog, and a well engineered frame in any material will ride well.
A good frame has a high degree of lateral stiffness (meaning when you pedal, no power is wasted bending the frame sideways, because it is so stiff) but vertical compliance that is just right *for you*. Some people like an ultra stiff frame, and others will think that feels like riding a kick-up-the-arse machine.
Steel is uniformly stiff, so you need more of it to add stiffness in specific parts of the frame. Ti can be worked with heat to be stiffer in some places than others, but you pay a lot for a Ti frame made by someone who knows what they are doing. Alu has a rep for being buzzy and unforgiving, but tell that to someone who rides a CAAD10 or a Cervelo S1/Soloist and they will laugh in your face. Carbon has a rep for being magical, but there are plenty of really nasty carbon frames that are stiff in all the wrong places, and quite a few that are soft as s
te (<cough> PX <cough>).
ETA: Canyon only sell via its own websit, but their outlet mini site has some VG deals if you know your size.
Canyon Ultimate Al 9.0
Cube Agree GTC Race
Focus Izalco Pro 3.0
Giant TCR Advanced 3
Trek Madone 3.5.
Focus won. Here's the test
There are a lot of generalisations thrown around about frame material. Bottom line is that a badly engineered frame in any material will ride like a dog, and a well engineered frame in any material will ride well.
A good frame has a high degree of lateral stiffness (meaning when you pedal, no power is wasted bending the frame sideways, because it is so stiff) but vertical compliance that is just right *for you*. Some people like an ultra stiff frame, and others will think that feels like riding a kick-up-the-arse machine.
Steel is uniformly stiff, so you need more of it to add stiffness in specific parts of the frame. Ti can be worked with heat to be stiffer in some places than others, but you pay a lot for a Ti frame made by someone who knows what they are doing. Alu has a rep for being buzzy and unforgiving, but tell that to someone who rides a CAAD10 or a Cervelo S1/Soloist and they will laugh in your face. Carbon has a rep for being magical, but there are plenty of really nasty carbon frames that are stiff in all the wrong places, and quite a few that are soft as s
te (<cough> PX <cough>). ETA: Canyon only sell via its own websit, but their outlet mini site has some VG deals if you know your size.
Edited by anonymous-user on Monday 18th June 21:24
Have a look on the ribble web site bud,ive got their race bike in alloy which is fine.went for sram gear on it and it works fine.my best bike is a connondale six 13 and yes she is slightly more comfortable on longer runs and much lighter but you pay four times the price.ribbles carbon frames all have good right ups in the mags etc.
spongy said:
Have a look on the ribble web site bud,ive got their race bike in alloy which is fine.went for sram gear on it and it works fine.my best bike is a connondale six 13 and yes she is slightly more comfortable on longer runs and much lighter but you pay four times the price.ribbles carbon frames all have good right ups in the mags etc.
My road bike is a Ribble Deda with Campag Veloce. More than enough for me.Gassing Station | Pedal Powered | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff