Retro Kona MTB Resto
Discussion
Hi,
Looking for some advice please. My Kona Fire mountain has served me well over the years having bought from new i think in the early 90's. Its been sitting in the shed for 12 months with only occasional use now as i have a lighter touring bike for my holidays.
It seems a shame to let it go unused so are thinking of stripping it down and getting the frame powder coated the same colour along with all the other bits to bring it back up to scratch, the paint is marked and faded now. Would make a ideal get around town/trials bike for me.
As i probably won't need front and rear panniers on it again i am thinking of front suspension forks to make the ride a little easier on my tired arms so looking for a decent set from ebay if somebody can recommend a make & model for me that will fit, i have never had front susp forks before so know nothing about them.
Regards,
Martyn
Looking for some advice please. My Kona Fire mountain has served me well over the years having bought from new i think in the early 90's. Its been sitting in the shed for 12 months with only occasional use now as i have a lighter touring bike for my holidays.
It seems a shame to let it go unused so are thinking of stripping it down and getting the frame powder coated the same colour along with all the other bits to bring it back up to scratch, the paint is marked and faded now. Would make a ideal get around town/trials bike for me.
As i probably won't need front and rear panniers on it again i am thinking of front suspension forks to make the ride a little easier on my tired arms so looking for a decent set from ebay if somebody can recommend a make & model for me that will fit, i have never had front susp forks before so know nothing about them.
Regards,
Martyn
Lovely bit of kit.
Budget is important here, as well as considering the frame geometry - that is not a bike that was ever designed to take even medium travel forks...
As you have a normal threaded headset, I'd look at going for a decent set of period forks, something like 60 - 75mm travel Pace's.
Retrobike classifieds are your friend here. Have a read through some of the restos of similar bikes to get an idea of the 'right' kit for a bike it's age (although ignore any driveline that uses cnc'd Pauls/et al components. s
t and overpriced then, the same now). Then you can search the classifieds for bits to meet your budget.
Kona of that vintage are rightly highly though of, the geometry and setup had few peers. Done right you could remake a beautiful weekend steed.
Enjoy.
Budget is important here, as well as considering the frame geometry - that is not a bike that was ever designed to take even medium travel forks...
As you have a normal threaded headset, I'd look at going for a decent set of period forks, something like 60 - 75mm travel Pace's.
Retrobike classifieds are your friend here. Have a read through some of the restos of similar bikes to get an idea of the 'right' kit for a bike it's age (although ignore any driveline that uses cnc'd Pauls/et al components. s
t and overpriced then, the same now). Then you can search the classifieds for bits to meet your budget.Kona of that vintage are rightly highly though of, the geometry and setup had few peers. Done right you could remake a beautiful weekend steed.
Enjoy.
Bear with me on this... if not essential to retain meaningful off-road capability, that would be a cracking bike to fixie. One White industries Eno eccentric hub, some judicious stripping and some 650c rims with road tyres (ie to keep the same brakes) and you will have a town bike/beer-scooter par-excellence. No need to muck up the geo with the forks either (the Kona fronts are pretty well state of the art for a rigid). Did something very similar with an Orange C16R of the same vintage and it is a corker to ride (head turner too) 
Okay, frame stripped and will be taking it over to the powder coaters in the next couple of weeks, I will use the same company who did my Marcos chassis recently and want to make sure i can get the same colour.
Still a bit confused about all the different type of forks available, mine has a thread at the top and with my brakes being the cantilever type i need to ensure all will fit.
My brother also has a Kona a couple of years newer than mine with front suspension so will take a look at his,
Martyn.
P.S. excuse the messy floor, having the garage renovated and pick up some ecotiles later this week to finish it off...
Edited by Martyn-123 on Sunday 10th June 22:08
Frame delivered to the powder coating company earlier today.
They can't do a exact match, well they could but it would mean mixing up a fresh new colour and that would cost them £££ and unless they know they are going to use it all it's no use to them.
So the next best colour and the nearest match was Kawasaki green which is only slightly darker so have given the go ahead for this colour. The black component parts of the bike i still have and will hang on to them until i get the front suspension sorted in case i have to change the bars so suit,
Martyn...
They can't do a exact match, well they could but it would mean mixing up a fresh new colour and that would cost them £££ and unless they know they are going to use it all it's no use to them.
So the next best colour and the nearest match was Kawasaki green which is only slightly darker so have given the go ahead for this colour. The black component parts of the bike i still have and will hang on to them until i get the front suspension sorted in case i have to change the bars so suit,
Martyn...
dont put suspension on it. the only forks that will fit are utterly st and will ruin the geometry.
I fitted Rockshox Indy XCs to a '96 cindercone and it was awful, compeltely ruining the nice light, responsive front end. There is a reason why we dont have elastomer suspension forks even on budget bikes these days and its because they were useless.
Dont be tempted to retro fit old forks just to make it look period or because thats all you can find, stick with the original Project 2 forks.
t and will ruin the geometry.I fitted Rockshox Indy XCs to a '96 cindercone and it was awful, compeltely ruining the nice light, responsive front end. There is a reason why we dont have elastomer suspension forks even on budget bikes these days and its because they were useless.
Dont be tempted to retro fit old forks just to make it look period or because thats all you can find, stick with the original Project 2 forks.
Regarding forks...
There are two primary diameters of the head tube the fork runs through on the frame, 1 inch and 1 1/8 inch. Internal diameter.
Then there are two types of fitting, threaded headset where the top of the fork steered is screwed into the bearing set, and the handlebar stem is a quill fitting tightened by a single vertical bolt. This is what you currently have.
The other option, which supercedes a threaded headset, is called aheadset. The fork is unthreaded, and is clamped in place by the stem. Preload of the bearings is done through a vertical compression cap.
As your frame is being powdercoated, and you're getting new forks, either is possible...
I'd recommend (providing you have a 1.125 setup for ease of procurement) converting to aheadset. It'll mean you'll be able to get pretty much any suspension fork you want, but you'll need a new headset (the steering bearings) and new stem. Handlebars shouldn't need changing, but there are a few different diameters to bear in mind when buying a stem. Probably 40 quid for both, plus a tenner for fitting (always best to use a proper bearing press to ensure alignment is correct).
HTH
Sam
There are two primary diameters of the head tube the fork runs through on the frame, 1 inch and 1 1/8 inch. Internal diameter.
Then there are two types of fitting, threaded headset where the top of the fork steered is screwed into the bearing set, and the handlebar stem is a quill fitting tightened by a single vertical bolt. This is what you currently have.
The other option, which supercedes a threaded headset, is called aheadset. The fork is unthreaded, and is clamped in place by the stem. Preload of the bearings is done through a vertical compression cap.
As your frame is being powdercoated, and you're getting new forks, either is possible...
I'd recommend (providing you have a 1.125 setup for ease of procurement) converting to aheadset. It'll mean you'll be able to get pretty much any suspension fork you want, but you'll need a new headset (the steering bearings) and new stem. Handlebars shouldn't need changing, but there are a few different diameters to bear in mind when buying a stem. Probably 40 quid for both, plus a tenner for fitting (always best to use a proper bearing press to ensure alignment is correct).
HTH
Sam
pablo said:
dont put suspension on it. the only forks that will fit are utterly st and will ruin the geometry.
I fitted Rockshox Indy XCs to a '96 cindercone and it was awful, compeltely ruining the nice light, responsive front end. There is a reason why we dont have elastomer suspension forks even on budget bikes these days and its because they were useless.
Dont be tempted to retro fit old forks just to make it look period or because thats all you can find, stick with the original Project 2 forks.
Can see where you're coming from if the suggestion was RS Indys, but disagree that a set of Pace short travel forks from the period would ruin anything...t and will ruin the geometry.I fitted Rockshox Indy XCs to a '96 cindercone and it was awful, compeltely ruining the nice light, responsive front end. There is a reason why we dont have elastomer suspension forks even on budget bikes these days and its because they were useless.
Dont be tempted to retro fit old forks just to make it look period or because thats all you can find, stick with the original Project 2 forks.
Actually, don't RS Rebas have the option to set travel to 80mm? Wouldn't have thought a set of those would have much difference is length axle to crown compared to Project 2s...
Sway said:
pablo said:
dont put suspension on it. the only forks that will fit are utterly st and will ruin the geometry.
I fitted Rockshox Indy XCs to a '96 cindercone and it was awful, compeltely ruining the nice light, responsive front end. There is a reason why we dont have elastomer suspension forks even on budget bikes these days and its because they were useless.
Dont be tempted to retro fit old forks just to make it look period or because thats all you can find, stick with the original Project 2 forks.
Can see where you're coming from if the suggestion was RS Indys, but disagree that a set of Pace short travel forks from the period would ruin anything...t and will ruin the geometry.I fitted Rockshox Indy XCs to a '96 cindercone and it was awful, compeltely ruining the nice light, responsive front end. There is a reason why we dont have elastomer suspension forks even on budget bikes these days and its because they were useless.
Dont be tempted to retro fit old forks just to make it look period or because thats all you can find, stick with the original Project 2 forks.
Actually, don't RS Rebas have the option to set travel to 80mm? Wouldn't have thought a set of those would have much difference is length axle to crown compared to Project 2s...
Whilst I understand what you are saying look at it this way,
nowadays we tell people that no suspension is better than cheap suspension if they are looking at the new low end mountain bike market and I fail to see why this is any different.
People just get gooey eyed and think retro stuff like RC35s must be better than 2012 forks with 65mm of elastomer travel because the RC35s have PACE on the side and because RC35s were cutting edge MTB technology in 1995.
If someone asked for an opinion comparing a new steel framed rigid mtb and the same model with 65mm of elastomer travel today, I doubt many would say that the extra cost and weight penalty are worth a bit of travel.
pablo said:
Sway said:
pablo said:
dont put suspension on it. the only forks that will fit are utterly st and will ruin the geometry.
I fitted Rockshox Indy XCs to a '96 cindercone and it was awful, compeltely ruining the nice light, responsive front end. There is a reason why we dont have elastomer suspension forks even on budget bikes these days and its because they were useless.
Dont be tempted to retro fit old forks just to make it look period or because thats all you can find, stick with the original Project 2 forks.
Can see where you're coming from if the suggestion was RS Indys, but disagree that a set of Pace short travel forks from the period would ruin anything...t and will ruin the geometry.I fitted Rockshox Indy XCs to a '96 cindercone and it was awful, compeltely ruining the nice light, responsive front end. There is a reason why we dont have elastomer suspension forks even on budget bikes these days and its because they were useless.
Dont be tempted to retro fit old forks just to make it look period or because thats all you can find, stick with the original Project 2 forks.
Actually, don't RS Rebas have the option to set travel to 80mm? Wouldn't have thought a set of those would have much difference is length axle to crown compared to Project 2s...
Whilst I understand what you are saying look at it this way,
nowadays we tell people that no suspension is better than cheap suspension if they are looking at the new low end mountain bike market and I fail to see why this is any different.
People just get gooey eyed and think retro stuff like RC35s must be better than 2012 forks with 65mm of elastomer travel because the RC35s have PACE on the side and because RC35s were cutting edge MTB technology in 1995.
If someone asked for an opinion comparing a new steel framed rigid mtb and the same model with 65mm of elastomer travel today, I doubt many would say that the extra cost and weight penalty are worth a bit of travel.
The primary issue with elastomer forks is their stiffness and the quality of the elastomer material. Modern cheap s
tty elastomers are just as flexy, and probably use poorer quality elastomer, as RS/Manitou from back in the day.I'd posit that period Pace forks are quite a bit stiffer than a lot of others, and their elastomer quality pretty damn good.
Hence why RS forks did start significantly improving once they moved away from the tradional design thinking of tapering forks (a la Quadra) to full length lowers a la Judy.
So if the OP does want a set of forks on the front, then IMO a set of period Pace, or even perhaps a set of Girvins, would be the best option.
They will never rival a modern set of equivalent quality forks, but they wouldn't ruin the ride, and may well improve it significantly depending on the type of use.
Of course the other factor is that the geometry of these older Konas can be somewhat full on for a recreational off road rider, so slackening the head angle by fitting slightly longer forks could actually give the bike much more riding appeal than the classic stretched out arse up xc position...
Guys,
Thank you for all the info on here, most helpfull.
The reason why i wanted to consider front suspension was to try to avoid the jarring on my hands/arms, i am 50 next year so the bones and muscles are starting to ache a little and just wanted a little more of a comfy ride, i can't see myself doing any proper off roading, just a little help over the pot holes and the occasional shortcut through the fields,
Regards,
Martyn.
P.s. May be getting older but just signed up for a 400 over 4 days Solihull to Paris work group ride next year and dertimed to do the Lejog when i retire...
Thank you for all the info on here, most helpfull.
The reason why i wanted to consider front suspension was to try to avoid the jarring on my hands/arms, i am 50 next year so the bones and muscles are starting to ache a little and just wanted a little more of a comfy ride, i can't see myself doing any proper off roading, just a little help over the pot holes and the occasional shortcut through the fields,
Regards,
Martyn.
P.s. May be getting older but just signed up for a 400 over 4 days Solihull to Paris work group ride next year and dertimed to do the Lejog when i retire...
In that case I'd agree with Pablo and suggest forks are probably not needed.
A slightly shorter, higher rise stem and some reasonably fat tyres should see you right.
Possibly some bars with a little more sweep, and adjusting your brake levers so your wrist is flat would help too.
Often the issue with arm pain is due to loading the ligaments/tendons of the wrist rather than the bones in your arm, or a riding position that puts too much weight on your arms instead of arse...
For suspension forks to help for that sort of use they'd need to be set so soft that they'll sap your legs instead!
A slightly shorter, higher rise stem and some reasonably fat tyres should see you right.
Possibly some bars with a little more sweep, and adjusting your brake levers so your wrist is flat would help too.
Often the issue with arm pain is due to loading the ligaments/tendons of the wrist rather than the bones in your arm, or a riding position that puts too much weight on your arms instead of arse...
For suspension forks to help for that sort of use they'd need to be set so soft that they'll sap your legs instead!
pablo said:
Sway said:
pablo said:
dont put suspension on it. the only forks that will fit are utterly st and will ruin the geometry.
I fitted Rockshox Indy XCs to a '96 cindercone and it was awful, compeltely ruining the nice light, responsive front end. There is a reason why we dont have elastomer suspension forks even on budget bikes these days and its because they were useless.
Dont be tempted to retro fit old forks just to make it look period or because thats all you can find, stick with the original Project 2 forks.
Can see where you're coming from if the suggestion was RS Indys, but disagree that a set of Pace short travel forks from the period would ruin anything...t and will ruin the geometry.I fitted Rockshox Indy XCs to a '96 cindercone and it was awful, compeltely ruining the nice light, responsive front end. There is a reason why we dont have elastomer suspension forks even on budget bikes these days and its because they were useless.
Dont be tempted to retro fit old forks just to make it look period or because thats all you can find, stick with the original Project 2 forks.
Actually, don't RS Rebas have the option to set travel to 80mm? Wouldn't have thought a set of those would have much difference is length axle to crown compared to Project 2s...
Whilst I understand what you are saying look at it this way,
nowadays we tell people that no suspension is better than cheap suspension if they are looking at the new low end mountain bike market and I fail to see why this is any different.
People just get gooey eyed and think retro stuff like RC35s must be better than 2012 forks with 65mm of elastomer travel because the RC35s have PACE on the side and because RC35s were cutting edge MTB technology in 1995.
If someone asked for an opinion comparing a new steel framed rigid mtb and the same model with 65mm of elastomer travel today, I doubt many would say that the extra cost and weight penalty are worth a bit of travel.
Ive also picked up some DX thumbies, a kona-light bar, a hideously uncomfortable Selle Italia saddle etc etc
Once fitted, it may not be as technically good as it sits right now (its SO responsive but harder than the hobs of hell) but it will be the realisation of what I always lusted after as a youngun.
Nostalgia is an expensive and contrary thing.
Collected the frame yesterday and yet another first rate job by the Powder Coating company i use, not sure if i can name them on here but they are based in Redditch.
Have now given them the gloss black bits to do inc the original Project 2 Forks so will probably stick with them now and put some fat tyres on to try to make the ride a little softer.
Thanks again for all the advice on here,
Martyn....
P.S Have got the Ecotile flooring down as well now, really pleased and just waiting for my Marcos to come back from having the bodywork seen too.
Have now given them the gloss black bits to do inc the original Project 2 Forks so will probably stick with them now and put some fat tyres on to try to make the ride a little softer.
Thanks again for all the advice on here,
Martyn....
P.S Have got the Ecotile flooring down as well now, really pleased and just waiting for my Marcos to come back from having the bodywork seen too.
Edited by Martyn-123 on Friday 22 June 10:56
Sway said:
pablo said:
dont put suspension on it. the only forks that will fit are utterly st and will ruin the geometry.
I fitted Rockshox Indy XCs to a '96 cindercone and it was awful, compeltely ruining the nice light, responsive front end. There is a reason why we dont have elastomer suspension forks even on budget bikes these days and its because they were useless.
Dont be tempted to retro fit old forks just to make it look period or because thats all you can find, stick with the original Project 2 forks.
Can see where you're coming from if the suggestion was RS Indys, but disagree that a set of Pace short travel forks from the period would ruin anything...t and will ruin the geometry.I fitted Rockshox Indy XCs to a '96 cindercone and it was awful, compeltely ruining the nice light, responsive front end. There is a reason why we dont have elastomer suspension forks even on budget bikes these days and its because they were useless.
Dont be tempted to retro fit old forks just to make it look period or because thats all you can find, stick with the original Project 2 forks.
Actually, don't RS Rebas have the option to set travel to 80mm? Wouldn't have thought a set of those would have much difference is length axle to crown compared to Project 2s...
the Girvin Flex Stem.
Hi,
Gearing querry ?
I am going to ditch the front shifter and just rely on the 7 speed cassette at the rear so looking at best gearing to use.
The rear cassette was only replaced recently and is a sram 12-32 so are looking to keep that as it is. At present the front gears are 52-42-30 and sits on a half inch size bottom bracket.
If i intend to replace the 3 front rings with one single ring with the existing rear cassette i would appreciate some advice for the best size to go for, no massive hills near me,
Regards,
Martyn.....
Gearing querry ?
I am going to ditch the front shifter and just rely on the 7 speed cassette at the rear so looking at best gearing to use.
The rear cassette was only replaced recently and is a sram 12-32 so are looking to keep that as it is. At present the front gears are 52-42-30 and sits on a half inch size bottom bracket.
If i intend to replace the 3 front rings with one single ring with the existing rear cassette i would appreciate some advice for the best size to go for, no massive hills near me,
Regards,
Martyn.....
Project finished and so pleased with the end result, hope you will agree that saving this bike was well worth it and realistically unless you want a Halfords brand you have got to spend a few hundred quid to get a half decent bike so whilst I have not done a costing yet on the project it has been well worth it financially and more important the self satisfaction of getting stuck into and finishing it.
There are loads of steel frame Kona's on ebay at present and if i had the time and space would do another but must concentrate on finishing my 4 wheel stuff first, see my garage.
I did look for some Kona logo's on ebay but can't find any to match the year of mine so will probably not decal it, a few photographs for you and looking to another 25yrs riding before I have to build it again.
Retro is cool !!!
[url]
|http://thumbsnap.com/phGV07aI[/url][url]
|http://thumbsnap.com/c3rvr4Oh[/url][url]
|http://thumbsnap.com/3ZEV2Thk[/url]
There are loads of steel frame Kona's on ebay at present and if i had the time and space would do another but must concentrate on finishing my 4 wheel stuff first, see my garage.
I did look for some Kona logo's on ebay but can't find any to match the year of mine so will probably not decal it, a few photographs for you and looking to another 25yrs riding before I have to build it again.
Retro is cool !!!
[url]|http://thumbsnap.com/phGV07aI[/url][url]|http://thumbsnap.com/c3rvr4Oh[/url][url]|http://thumbsnap.com/3ZEV2Thk[/url]Edited by Martyn-123 on Tuesday 28th August 11:28
Lovely!
Ask Gil @ The Cycleshed to sort you out some period correct decals.
email: gil@thecycleshed.co.uk
I put a little Kona Koa together recently for my nephew, it is such an ace little bike, i rode it at our local trails, but bent the seatpost hehe!
Ask Gil @ The Cycleshed to sort you out some period correct decals.
email: gil@thecycleshed.co.uk
I put a little Kona Koa together recently for my nephew, it is such an ace little bike, i rode it at our local trails, but bent the seatpost hehe!
Edited by SkinnyBoy on Tuesday 28th August 11:45
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