fixing a specialized hardrock
Discussion
I know nothing about bikes, but like fixing things and don't like paying people to do something I could do myself (eventually...)
I've been given a specialized hardrock mtb, the previous owner told me the gears are shagged and will need changed, and the rear brake doesn't work very well either. I've googled this but there's not much about it anywhere. Any advice?
I've been given a specialized hardrock mtb, the previous owner told me the gears are shagged and will need changed, and the rear brake doesn't work very well either. I've googled this but there's not much about it anywhere. Any advice?
If you want to have a go yourself try the Park Tool website:
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
Or maybe look on youtube.
If the gears are worn out they will need replacing. This will probably involve a new cassette and chain.
Is the rear brake an hydraulic disc?
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help
Or maybe look on youtube.
If the gears are worn out they will need replacing. This will probably involve a new cassette and chain.
Is the rear brake an hydraulic disc?
Sounds like you got a good deal!
I have beaten my hardrock into the ground and there is nothing that I haven't fixed myself.
It is likely he hasn't indexed the gears since he bought it.
That is an easy fix. The best help is found on youtube.
But before you try that make sure you have lubed everything:
- Degrease chain and relube.
- Check for stiff cables (brake and gear) you might have to regrease.
- Check the shifters actually shift (very unlikely to be broken).
I have beaten my hardrock into the ground and there is nothing that I haven't fixed myself.
It is likely he hasn't indexed the gears since he bought it.
That is an easy fix. The best help is found on youtube.
But before you try that make sure you have lubed everything:
- Degrease chain and relube.
- Check for stiff cables (brake and gear) you might have to regrease.
- Check the shifters actually shift (very unlikely to be broken).
Ok, i've cleaned it as well as I can with what I have.
This is what it looks like:

This is the kind of gear/brake bit it has:

When you pull the brake lever the cable moves freely and pulls the bit at the end of the cable, but the brakes do very little, almost nothing. The front ones are fine. I've adjusted this bit:

as far as it will go, which on the front brake had the effect of making them nice and strong. On the rears they still barely do anything. Not sure if this is the pads wearing or a mechanical issue.
It changes between 1st and 2nd gears fine on the gear thing in the middle of the bike, and all the gears on the rear wheel change smoothly. It is impossible to get the 3rd 'big' gear to go in, though. I've tried to push this bit manually:

and it seems to be blocked somehow from getting into the final gear.
I'll have a read up on indexing gears now
This is what it looks like:

This is the kind of gear/brake bit it has:

When you pull the brake lever the cable moves freely and pulls the bit at the end of the cable, but the brakes do very little, almost nothing. The front ones are fine. I've adjusted this bit:

as far as it will go, which on the front brake had the effect of making them nice and strong. On the rears they still barely do anything. Not sure if this is the pads wearing or a mechanical issue.
It changes between 1st and 2nd gears fine on the gear thing in the middle of the bike, and all the gears on the rear wheel change smoothly. It is impossible to get the 3rd 'big' gear to go in, though. I've tried to push this bit manually:

and it seems to be blocked somehow from getting into the final gear.
I'll have a read up on indexing gears now
When you say you have adjusted the rear brake "as far as it will go" did you actually adjust the length of the cable?
In other words, you can undo the vice-like thing in the photo that grips the brake cable then hold the brake more closed and do the vice up again. (Just needs an allen key the right size.)
Effectively you are taking up the slack in the cable.
I really doubt the pads are too worn since it takes a LOT of use to do that, particularly on the rear.
The other thing you can do (if the pads are slightly worn) is adjust how much they "stick out" from the thing that holds them.
That needs a much smaller allen key stuck in the middle of the red bit in the photo on BOTH sides.
Sometimes when you do this you will find one side gripping the disc earlier than the other when you brake.
You want to adjust them so that both sides of the pad meet the disc at the same time as you pull the brake lever.
Not vitally important but will increase the life of the disc.
In other words, you can undo the vice-like thing in the photo that grips the brake cable then hold the brake more closed and do the vice up again. (Just needs an allen key the right size.)
Effectively you are taking up the slack in the cable.
I really doubt the pads are too worn since it takes a LOT of use to do that, particularly on the rear.
The other thing you can do (if the pads are slightly worn) is adjust how much they "stick out" from the thing that holds them.
That needs a much smaller allen key stuck in the middle of the red bit in the photo on BOTH sides.
Sometimes when you do this you will find one side gripping the disc earlier than the other when you brake.
You want to adjust them so that both sides of the pad meet the disc at the same time as you pull the brake lever.
Not vitally important but will increase the life of the disc.
er... no. Cheers Walm, that seems a bit obvious now.
This bike is manky. I've coated the whole thing in degreaser and it's still covered in thick muddy grease.
I've tried to find the high/low screws to adjust the front gears but i can't find them. They must be covered by the mudgrease.
I flipped it upside down and ran the pedals for a while and there was loads of noise coming from it, mostly from the chain so I took it apart a bit. They cleaned up quite well, but there's still a bit of noise coming when I turn this chainy bit on the wheel:

I can't work out how to get it off to clean it.
Most of the noise was coming from these bits so I took them off and got most of the rust and gunk off:

Now i'm not sure what to lube them up with before I put them back together. That's the same with most of the parts actully...
I have 3in1, lithium grease, and spray grease handy.
This bike is manky. I've coated the whole thing in degreaser and it's still covered in thick muddy grease.
I've tried to find the high/low screws to adjust the front gears but i can't find them. They must be covered by the mudgrease.
I flipped it upside down and ran the pedals for a while and there was loads of noise coming from it, mostly from the chain so I took it apart a bit. They cleaned up quite well, but there's still a bit of noise coming when I turn this chainy bit on the wheel:

I can't work out how to get it off to clean it.
Most of the noise was coming from these bits so I took them off and got most of the rust and gunk off:

Now i'm not sure what to lube them up with before I put them back together. That's the same with most of the parts actully...
I have 3in1, lithium grease, and spray grease handy.
Comedy - the high/low screws are right there in the photo!
They are in the dull grey thing attached to the shiny silver thing that actually touches the chain when you shift.
Just behind your seat tube.
They are two small cross-head screws that angle slightly towards each other.
That thing on the back wheel with lots of cogs is called the cassette.
It looks pretty clean to me and you need a special shimano tool to take it off.
I just use a big toothbrushy thing to clean mine.
The cassette can make a bit of noise when you freewheel - lots of clicks - that's normal.
When turning the pedals to turn the wheel it should be pretty silent.
I strongly suspect most of the noise is coming from the chain rather than the other bits.
Chains are a notorious b
h to clean.
Some people recommend just dunking it in petrol or some other degreasing agent.
If you do just make sure you dry fully and re-lube afterwards - with proper chain lube - this is really worth the minimal investment.
Lubing those tiny cogs (derailleur pulleys) seems fairly non-vital.
Some say grease, some say chain lube is fine, some say nothing.
They are in the dull grey thing attached to the shiny silver thing that actually touches the chain when you shift.
Just behind your seat tube.
They are two small cross-head screws that angle slightly towards each other.
That thing on the back wheel with lots of cogs is called the cassette.
It looks pretty clean to me and you need a special shimano tool to take it off.
I just use a big toothbrushy thing to clean mine.
The cassette can make a bit of noise when you freewheel - lots of clicks - that's normal.
When turning the pedals to turn the wheel it should be pretty silent.
I strongly suspect most of the noise is coming from the chain rather than the other bits.
Chains are a notorious b
h to clean.Some people recommend just dunking it in petrol or some other degreasing agent.
If you do just make sure you dry fully and re-lube afterwards - with proper chain lube - this is really worth the minimal investment.
Lubing those tiny cogs (derailleur pulleys) seems fairly non-vital.
Some say grease, some say chain lube is fine, some say nothing.
Actually looking again at the photo with your chain in it - that is going to need some serious work to clean!
If you think about how the rear cassette works - it can't be that making the noise.
When you are turning the pedals to turn the rear wheel the cassette isn't actually moving - other than rotating at exactly the same pace as the wheel - so there is no metal against metal to make a noise.
The noisy bit is the chain brushing up against one of the cogs on the cassette and then bending as it goes around it.
That cassette looks clean so again all the noise is the chain itself.
If you think about how the rear cassette works - it can't be that making the noise.
When you are turning the pedals to turn the rear wheel the cassette isn't actually moving - other than rotating at exactly the same pace as the wheel - so there is no metal against metal to make a noise.
The noisy bit is the chain brushing up against one of the cogs on the cassette and then bending as it goes around it.
That cassette looks clean so again all the noise is the chain itself.
doh! In my defence they were coated in gunk. 
Someone has tried to change the screws before and well and they're minced. Can't even move them with a hammer and pliers.
I'm toying with the idea of dispensing with the front gear change thing and just having one chainwheel. Can't see the need for all these gears to be honest, i'll never use more than a couple and it's one less thing to go wrong.
Playing with the brakes just now, they seem to be getting better.

Someone has tried to change the screws before and well and they're minced. Can't even move them with a hammer and pliers.
I'm toying with the idea of dispensing with the front gear change thing and just having one chainwheel. Can't see the need for all these gears to be honest, i'll never use more than a couple and it's one less thing to go wrong.
Playing with the brakes just now, they seem to be getting better.
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