GP5000 TR issues
Discussion
They are DT Swiss RR 521's I had made up by my local wheel builder / bike shop. They have been great. The P Zeros I got on and off no issues, I heard GP5000s were a nightmare to get on and off hence why I waited so long. Getting them on was tricky but I managed, however, when on and sat in the middle of the rim as recommended, this is where the "tiny gap" was.
Having now seated them, I can see that I could unhook one side and try a tyre, however, they do feel very tight and much less room inside than a standard clincher.
The back wheel has appeared to have held, so I am hoping I won't need to touch it again. I am still stumped how one held full pressure with no sealant and the other collapsed. However the one that held was the one that was blown up on Halfords compressor. The one that didn't was the one I used my track pump on. Is it possible that despite numerous cracks it wasn't properly seated? When I used CO2 it this morning it cracked louder and quicker and it seems to have held since.
Having now seated them, I can see that I could unhook one side and try a tyre, however, they do feel very tight and much less room inside than a standard clincher.
The back wheel has appeared to have held, so I am hoping I won't need to touch it again. I am still stumped how one held full pressure with no sealant and the other collapsed. However the one that held was the one that was blown up on Halfords compressor. The one that didn't was the one I used my track pump on. Is it possible that despite numerous cracks it wasn't properly seated? When I used CO2 it this morning it cracked louder and quicker and it seems to have held since.
This thread is not doing anything to convince me to change from inner tubes and clinchers. Put some new Michelin Power cup tyres (28mm) on the BMC the other day with some super light TPU inner tubes off amazon, got to say it felt properly quick and definitely a few less watts needed to keep the pace
CYCLAMI 38g 1/2PCS Ultralight 700C Bike Inner Tube TPU Road
CYCLAMI 38g 1/2PCS Ultralight 700C Bike Inner Tube TPU Road
I did a 100m sportive at the weekend but got a puncture. Tiny sharp object (thorn I think) that took a while to find. Then couldn’t find the part of the tyre that had the puncture so had to swap out with replacement tyre. Cost me about 45m (esp as took a while to find what had punctured it which had to be found else that would just puncture the replacement tyre!!) and obv body had cooled down etc. so took a while to get back up to speed once running. Then due to mini pump, could not get a particular decent pressure so had to take care (go slower 
) to the feed station where mech had track pump and got it up to my normal pressure. I could only then push on again.
Really wished I had tubeless! Especially as that would have easily coped with that small thorn.
Unfortunately tyres (GP5000 but not TR ones) aren’t tubeless types but always planed to get the TR version when they do wear out.
For most cycling, it’s not going to me a major issue adding time to sort a puncture mid-ride, however if doing competitive stuff and/or sportives or going somewhere and want to “guarantee” (within reason of course) no puncture delays then tubeless is the way to go.
Had tubeless on my old bike with no issues. My gravel bike also had tubeless and never had an issue.
) to the feed station where mech had track pump and got it up to my normal pressure. I could only then push on again.Really wished I had tubeless! Especially as that would have easily coped with that small thorn.
Unfortunately tyres (GP5000 but not TR ones) aren’t tubeless types but always planed to get the TR version when they do wear out.
For most cycling, it’s not going to me a major issue adding time to sort a puncture mid-ride, however if doing competitive stuff and/or sportives or going somewhere and want to “guarantee” (within reason of course) no puncture delays then tubeless is the way to go.
Had tubeless on my old bike with no issues. My gravel bike also had tubeless and never had an issue.
oddball1313 said:
This thread is not doing anything to convince me to change from inner tubes and clinchers. Put some new Michelin Power cup tyres (28mm) on the BMC the other day with some super light TPU inner tubes off amazon, got to say it felt properly quick and definitely a few less watts needed to keep the pace
CYCLAMI 38g 1/2PCS Ultralight 700C Bike Inner Tube TPU Road
Hopefully you will be OK, however I bought some of those tubes and had to sen back. Both tubes were OK for one ride, then a few days later flat. Then pumped up but went down again. No puncture but found that air was simply coming out of valve (core wasn’t loose or anything) so faulty. IMO cheap crap. I have a decent make TPU spare now for saddle bag.CYCLAMI 38g 1/2PCS Ultralight 700C Bike Inner Tube TPU Road
See my other post, definitely going tubeless in the future….
Dracoro said:
Hopefully you will be OK, however I bought some of those tubes and had to sen back. Both tubes were OK for one ride, then a few days later flat. Then pumped up but went down again. No puncture but found that air was simply coming out of valve (core wasn’t loose or anything) so faulty. IMO cheap crap. I have a decent make TPU spare now for saddle bag.
See my other post, definitely going tubeless in the future….
Fingers crossed - tyre pressure is fine since sundays ride so hopefully a good batch. RAFA 100 on sunday starting from Kendrew barracks in Rutland (only 2.5 miles from home) so hopefully they’ll be ok but got a couple of spares in the bag just in case. If they become a nightmre i’ll go back to tried and trusted continental butayl tubes and wait until the tubilito/vittoira ones become sensibly pricedSee my other post, definitely going tubeless in the future….
Random_Person said:
CO2 has seated the tyre well, so thats that issue solved and I will buy a airshot or similar to above.
But the rear is still going from 110PSI to flat in 15 mins. For no reason at all. I have checked everything but it wont hold. Going to add sealant now but I now and re-pump but I know it wont hold.
With the valve core remover, why is it that when you turn it in either direction, the valve still gets loose? i/e you tighten it but if you keep tightening it in the same direction it goes loose again?
110 PSI in a tubless tyre is pretty brave!But the rear is still going from 110PSI to flat in 15 mins. For no reason at all. I have checked everything but it wont hold. Going to add sealant now but I now and re-pump but I know it wont hold.
With the valve core remover, why is it that when you turn it in either direction, the valve still gets loose? i/e you tighten it but if you keep tightening it in the same direction it goes loose again?
ecs said:
110 PSI in a tubless tyre is pretty stupid!
EFAIt's also above the max pressure recommendation.
I'm not sure why some random person has some much difficulties doing things, tubeless setup is not that difficult. Put tyre one one side, add some sealant, mount tyre on other side, use CO2 cartridge/Airshot/compressor to get bead to 'snap' into place. Job done.
Trying to get a tubeless tyre to mount and hold pressure without sealant is destined to fail.
I have been running tubeless (blind) since March 2023 - this week during this episode was the first time ever it has come to light that you "have to use compressed air". My previous tyres went on with track pump every time, no issues.
But the fact I have managed to get the notorious GP5000s fitted, on own, demonstrates that I have some competence. I am going to order tn air compressor thing, if thats all I need then so be it. But so far, my experience has been negative - time consuming, messy and inconsistent when trying to deal with tyre changes or changes in sealant. And, the times that I have punctured have been catastrophic. I have halted club rides twice - and between 8 to 10 seasoned riders, none of us have been able to resolve the issue - so as much as an idiot I maybe, everyone else must be too.
But the fact I have managed to get the notorious GP5000s fitted, on own, demonstrates that I have some competence. I am going to order tn air compressor thing, if thats all I need then so be it. But so far, my experience has been negative - time consuming, messy and inconsistent when trying to deal with tyre changes or changes in sealant. And, the times that I have punctured have been catastrophic. I have halted club rides twice - and between 8 to 10 seasoned riders, none of us have been able to resolve the issue - so as much as an idiot I maybe, everyone else must be too.
If tubeless tyres won’t inflate then the best tip is to wrap another round of rim tape around the rim. This has the effect of enlargening the rim circumference and allows the tyre to sit deflated more tightly so when you start pumping the pressure increases immediately and the tyre starts to hold air, pressure builds and the tyre will then push up onto the shoulders of the rim.
All the other options you have been suggested have some merit but my solution above is foolproof. You may even need an extra 2 wraps of rim tape but it will always work.
All the other options you have been suggested have some merit but my solution above is foolproof. You may even need an extra 2 wraps of rim tape but it will always work.
Random_Person said:
I have been running tubeless (blind) since March 2023 - this week during this episode was the first time ever it has come to light that you "have to use compressed air". My previous tyres went on with track pump every time, no issues.
But the fact I have managed to get the notorious GP5000s fitted, on own, demonstrates that I have some competence. I am going to order tn air compressor thing, if thats all I need then so be it. But so far, my experience has been negative - time consuming, messy and inconsistent when trying to deal with tyre changes or changes in sealant. And, the times that I have punctured have been catastrophic. I have halted club rides twice - and between 8 to 10 seasoned riders, none of us have been able to resolve the issue - so as much as an idiot I maybe, everyone else must be too.
I've been between decisions on tubeless for road for a while. I have successfully Dynaplugg'd a few tyres and carried on with a ride ... but sometimes, its a tyre boot and tube time, so I always carry a Pirelli TPU tube just in case. Unfortunately I punctured in race at the weekend after just 20 mins ... a national championship on a course that suited me - all that time and effort down the drain, so I get the levels of frustration with tubeless. But the fact I have managed to get the notorious GP5000s fitted, on own, demonstrates that I have some competence. I am going to order tn air compressor thing, if thats all I need then so be it. But so far, my experience has been negative - time consuming, messy and inconsistent when trying to deal with tyre changes or changes in sealant. And, the times that I have punctured have been catastrophic. I have halted club rides twice - and between 8 to 10 seasoned riders, none of us have been able to resolve the issue - so as much as an idiot I maybe, everyone else must be too.
One issue I've seen on mutiple bikes is the innability to remove the valve due to a ceased valve nut ... when trying to fit a tube if the Dynaplug hasn't sealed for whatever reason.
Yes its messy and can be inconsistant. You've hot the nail on the head tho ... 'when dealing with tyre changes or changes of sealant'. Stick to the same tyre/wheel combo if poss ... the way that tyres mount varies considerably ... some are just not compatible without a signifinant amount of effort, which will be difficult to replicate when caught out in the wild without the correct tools. Also, sealant ... I have found that Mucoff, although smell nice is next to useless ... ouses out from the smallest of punctures ... Stans race fluid seems to work best ... although the hole it faced at the weekend was too big.
Some wheel/tyre combinations will inflate with a couple of half-hearted pumps from a track-pump, others can be much harder.
If I can't "get it up" straightaway, I stop and just go to the nearest petrol station and use the airline there. You might need an adapter from Presta to Schraeder and it helps to remove valve core.
Depends on tyre, but generally they won't hold air for a long period without sealant.
If I can't "get it up" straightaway, I stop and just go to the nearest petrol station and use the airline there. You might need an adapter from Presta to Schraeder and it helps to remove valve core.
Depends on tyre, but generally they won't hold air for a long period without sealant.
Well, I will say having just been out on my first ride on the GP5000's, it was probably worth the hassle. They do feel nice, hard to say its black and white from the P Zeros but they do seem less sluggish. I think I have gained around 0.5mph average over 30 miles judging by todays ride. They have redeemed themselves for now anyway.
I’ve been tubeless for over a decade now in mtb, road and gravel.
Used pretty much every brand of tyre and I've never needed anything other than a track pump.
If the tyre is loose on the wheel give it another wrap with the tape.
The sealant makes a big difference to how well the whole process goes. I use stans, orange seal or my preference caffe latex. Never had much success with the others.
Number one bit of advice is have a ratchet strap to hand. Place it on around the circumference of the tyre, remove the inner core of the valve and pump like a mad man until the beads pop. Syringe the required volume of sealant, pop the core back in and then give the whole wheel a shake whilst rotating. Making sure you have coverage from the sealant.
Using this method I have a 100% success rate on over a 100 tyres.
Used pretty much every brand of tyre and I've never needed anything other than a track pump.
If the tyre is loose on the wheel give it another wrap with the tape.
The sealant makes a big difference to how well the whole process goes. I use stans, orange seal or my preference caffe latex. Never had much success with the others.
Number one bit of advice is have a ratchet strap to hand. Place it on around the circumference of the tyre, remove the inner core of the valve and pump like a mad man until the beads pop. Syringe the required volume of sealant, pop the core back in and then give the whole wheel a shake whilst rotating. Making sure you have coverage from the sealant.
Using this method I have a 100% success rate on over a 100 tyres.
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