1984 Turbo, need some advise
Discussion
Hi. I have a 1984 Turbo. Car is up together. Couple of jobs I've got planned for the weekend. Just need to see if anyone out there agrees, or has better ideas.
i) Carbs. Car is running lumpy. Have taken the top caps of the Dellortos off. Had a look inside. Cleaned all the jets, whipped the inside of the chambers clean too. Checked the floats. Distance is now correct at 15mm / 25mm. One of the hinges was broke, that's fixed. One gasket was leaking a bit. That's fixed. All back togther, but still a bit lumpy. Have replaced the choke cable. Now ready to have a bash at tuning. Any system people could advise?
ii) Gear linkage. Woow when I saw the system I thought, yeap that's Lotus alright. Like some bloke done it in his garage. Gear changing is difficult when car is hot or on a really hot day. The linkage is really loose throughout. My mate who has the same car has used alu tubing cut and bolted in tight at every linkage. But this makes the whole thing really ridgid. Is this the way to go, I mean correct? I'm concerned this will wear out the gear box over time. I mean it seems like it should be tight but with some flex (ie rubber bushes). Anyone got some idea?
I'm at the Le Mans Classic meeting in Mulsanne for lunchtime a week today. Any Lotus guros about, some advise for a pint (couple) would be great.
Cheers,
Eddie
i) Carbs. Car is running lumpy. Have taken the top caps of the Dellortos off. Had a look inside. Cleaned all the jets, whipped the inside of the chambers clean too. Checked the floats. Distance is now correct at 15mm / 25mm. One of the hinges was broke, that's fixed. One gasket was leaking a bit. That's fixed. All back togther, but still a bit lumpy. Have replaced the choke cable. Now ready to have a bash at tuning. Any system people could advise?
ii) Gear linkage. Woow when I saw the system I thought, yeap that's Lotus alright. Like some bloke done it in his garage. Gear changing is difficult when car is hot or on a really hot day. The linkage is really loose throughout. My mate who has the same car has used alu tubing cut and bolted in tight at every linkage. But this makes the whole thing really ridgid. Is this the way to go, I mean correct? I'm concerned this will wear out the gear box over time. I mean it seems like it should be tight but with some flex (ie rubber bushes). Anyone got some idea?
I'm at the Le Mans Classic meeting in Mulsanne for lunchtime a week today. Any Lotus guros about, some advise for a pint (couple) would be great.
Cheers,
Eddie
Don't know much about the gear cables but mine have little rubber boots at the ball joints which, when stuffed with Castrol grease, work nicely. They are usually situated next to a hot exhaust so the heat boils away any lubricant in the ball joint. Keep a rubber boot on it and it 'should' stay sweet.
As for the lumpy running, not sure. I would have the heads off and check the tappet shimms and the timing. Also check the sparks and compression. Then fill it with premium fuel
Or give Geoff at Esprit Engineering a ring.
01725 514449
As for the lumpy running, not sure. I would have the heads off and check the tappet shimms and the timing. Also check the sparks and compression. Then fill it with premium fuel
Or give Geoff at Esprit Engineering a ring.
01725 514449
Thanks for the advise. I will be making the call tomorrow. Now more bother. I had a slight oil leak on the engine block. Cleaned the engine, cleared all the grime. Sorted the oil leak. It was running down onto the exhaust manifold. But now looks like the clutch is seized. Can't engage the gears when engine is in motion. Can when the engine is off. Car was up on ramps. Looks like water has enterred the access hole on the Citroen C-35 box. Been reading up on this today. Apparently they don't like water. Looking underneath the piston moves the arm in the gear box.
At this stage I can only wonder it's the worst. Have pumped the clutch peddle for a while, then tried. Clutch won't release. Turn the engine on with gear engaged (and clutch peddle to the floor) and she jumps forward like if you've left it in gear.
Have a small leak on the gear box, but apparently they all do. However concerned about water in the box, if it's in there, not good. Better change the gear oil. Refil plug on the top of the box won't shift. Seeing a mate who has better tools than me. The really sad thing is it's really nice weather now and the Le Mans Classic is in just a few days. Anyone else got some ideas.... ?????
At this stage I can only wonder it's the worst. Have pumped the clutch peddle for a while, then tried. Clutch won't release. Turn the engine on with gear engaged (and clutch peddle to the floor) and she jumps forward like if you've left it in gear.
Have a small leak on the gear box, but apparently they all do. However concerned about water in the box, if it's in there, not good. Better change the gear oil. Refil plug on the top of the box won't shift. Seeing a mate who has better tools than me. The really sad thing is it's really nice weather now and the Le Mans Classic is in just a few days. Anyone else got some ideas.... ?????
Hi, indeed, change the oil at first. If there is no water found, fill the gearbox with 3 liter GL 4 oil.
It will make the differ.
If you found water, remove the topcover and check inside of the gearbox.
cheers,
Harry Martens
www.ds-vitesse.com
It will make the differ.
If you found water, remove the topcover and check inside of the gearbox.
cheers,
Harry Martens
www.ds-vitesse.com
Hi, Will keep your details handy. Checked out your site. Do you come to the Classic, or party for the football? See you are from Holand. Thanks for your comments. Have the oil all ready. I bought 3 x 1ltre bottles of Shell Spirax SAE 80W-90, which is APL GL-5 rated. I just need to fill 2.25ltres worth LEW site tells me (if I can get the refil bolt to unscrew). It's the later C-35, box with only one drain plug. Mate of mine has informed me about also using an additive. What's your opinion on this, and which one should I include?
Feeling better now sounds like my issue is more with the slave cylinder and that RED pipe, than the gear box. Think the seals have given up. So concluding about the C-35 gear box, the Esprit should be okay with this water issue, mate explained James Bond went underwater so this shouldn't be the issue :-) !! i'm gonna change the gear oil anyway just to be sure. Thanks for all the advise.
Feeling better now sounds like my issue is more with the slave cylinder and that RED pipe, than the gear box. Think the seals have given up. So concluding about the C-35 gear box, the Esprit should be okay with this water issue, mate explained James Bond went underwater so this shouldn't be the issue :-) !! i'm gonna change the gear oil anyway just to be sure. Thanks for all the advise.
Hi again. One other point. The slight oil leak on the C-35 box (at the back), apparently it's a standard problem. I can see it coming from the rear plate. Seems to be coming from the speedo access point, or from the plate itself. Would like to get that fixed too, as I'm going to change the oil. Question Is it a simple job of just unscrewing the attachement bolts, removing the back plate, cleaning up and re-gasketing. I'm just concerned if some small expensive peice of metal essential to the functioning of the box might shoot out and become lost if I attempt this job. My mate also with the same car and leak says 'not to touch', and just accept the small leak. Is it straight forward, and does a gasket kit exist? Just want the car fixed without oil leaks. Cheers, Eddie
Hi,
It really is a simple job of just unscrewing the attachement bolts, removing the back plate, cleaning up and re-gasketing. Clean carefully and use a little bit of Loctite instant gasket. Only a little bit. No small bits will come out. Maybe the speedogear will fall out of the nylon bushing but that can be replaced easaly.
Gl 5 spec oil will destroy your bronze synchros. You really need the GL 4. I advice Redline MT 90.
Fill it up with 3 liter. I know the manual says 2.25 l but the .75 l extra is much better for synchro on 5th gear. There is no pressure inside gearbox so no problem.
Thanks for checking the site,
cheers,
Harry Martens
www.ds-vitesse.
Ps, yeah soccercity here aswell. All orange and in Worldcup final again.
It really is a simple job of just unscrewing the attachement bolts, removing the back plate, cleaning up and re-gasketing. Clean carefully and use a little bit of Loctite instant gasket. Only a little bit. No small bits will come out. Maybe the speedogear will fall out of the nylon bushing but that can be replaced easaly.
Gl 5 spec oil will destroy your bronze synchros. You really need the GL 4. I advice Redline MT 90.
Fill it up with 3 liter. I know the manual says 2.25 l but the .75 l extra is much better for synchro on 5th gear. There is no pressure inside gearbox so no problem.
Thanks for checking the site,
cheers,
Harry Martens
www.ds-vitesse.
Ps, yeah soccercity here aswell. All orange and in Worldcup final again.
Hi, Okay great for the advise. I will go back and return the oil then. Follow your advise. I don't want more problems. Also search for the oil you recommend. No additives then? Nice images of the work you've done on the various gear boxes on your site.
Yeah I saw the match. Last minute biting of the finger nails last night for you guys I bet. The Uruguays had a chance to make it 3-3 at the end. The best will be Holland v Germany. I have some Dutch friends, and I know the competition you have with the Germans. I know how you guys like to party. Enjoy, and best of luck !!
Yeah I saw the match. Last minute biting of the finger nails last night for you guys I bet. The Uruguays had a chance to make it 3-3 at the end. The best will be Holland v Germany. I have some Dutch friends, and I know the competition you have with the Germans. I know how you guys like to party. Enjoy, and best of luck !!
Hi, After having a real game with the clutch plate sticking (due to my idiotsy) = water in the engine bay to clean and find this oil leak, I finally managed to un-block the clutch plate (kitchen knife wedged and twisted on open sections and clutch/brake cleaner sprayed in, then started in gear in second). In the course of waiting on various bits and pieces from SJ Sports.
Concerning the lumpy running, going to change the dizzy cap and rotar arm, already done the plugs and HT leads. Will renew the dellortos with new gasket kit, then see where I'm at. I've heard about this system for doing the carbs. I'll get all the new bits on the car first then see. Cheers.
Concerning the lumpy running, going to change the dizzy cap and rotar arm, already done the plugs and HT leads. Will renew the dellortos with new gasket kit, then see where I'm at. I've heard about this system for doing the carbs. I'll get all the new bits on the car first then see. Cheers.
Just to conclude on this post. Have solved the issue on my lumpy running. It was fuel related for sure. Whole ignition system, plugs, leads, dizzy etc, all replaced. Just before I was about to play with the carbs, I openned a little more the pressure regulator. Sorted !!! It seems to have just been that. I will get and pressure checked also, when my mate gets hold of the testing device.
Anyone on here who has a similar issue with the running of their carb form Turbo Esprit, follow my advise. If the problem is found to be fuel ralated and the there are no leaks on the carbs, I'd certainly try just openning the pressure regulator (obviously note the position where it was from the start). It's a 30 second job to do.
Anyone on here who has a similar issue with the running of their carb form Turbo Esprit, follow my advise. If the problem is found to be fuel ralated and the there are no leaks on the carbs, I'd certainly try just openning the pressure regulator (obviously note the position where it was from the start). It's a 30 second job to do.
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