S4 heater part deux.....
Discussion
So I did some digging and it looks like the reason my heater is kaput is because the cable has come loose. The end at the switch had come free and I fixed that, now the spring-loaded thermostatic water valve appears to be inop.
I pulled the fuse box and had a buddy turn the switch. It bumps but doesn't actually move.
So my question is, do I have to remove the windshield to get to it? I'm exaggerating of course, but it looks like a nightmare to get to... anyone have any tips?
Thanks,
Jim
I pulled the fuse box and had a buddy turn the switch. It bumps but doesn't actually move.
So my question is, do I have to remove the windshield to get to it? I'm exaggerating of course, but it looks like a nightmare to get to... anyone have any tips?
Thanks,
Jim
When they replace the heater, they take the dash out to do it...You have both my sympathy, AND most definitely (as I have been there), my empathy. Have you purchased supplement PJ from your dealer? This will cost less than $30 and will give you about 80% of the total help you are likely to get on this subject. The remainder will come from the forum and the factory technical support. It sounds like your cable has come loose at the valve end (I take it you have a pre-98 car as it is an S4- is that correct ? In the end you may have to bite the bullet and take out the dash. Try everything else first. I once knocked the wire off the oil pressure lamp and spent two hours fighting to get it back on. I succeeded just seconds before I was going to attempt binnacle removal. Maybe you could somehow unbolt the valve from the pedalbox to give a better view or better access to the retaining screw. The heater in this car (mainly due to the chassis design) was truly sent from the very pits of hell to upset the innocent owner !!!! Any questions, please ask or e-mail as I have got quite knowledgeable the
Thanks for the help.
I'm thinking even if I remove the dash I still don't know if I can get to it because it's behind the front tub below the windshield. I might try taking out the front air box under the hood where the fan resides and see if I can reach it from there. The only bad part about that is the glue that seals it. I can't imagine that's going to be easy to remove or readminister once disassembled.
On the other hand, summer's almost here and the A/C works.
I'm thinking even if I remove the dash I still don't know if I can get to it because it's behind the front tub below the windshield. I might try taking out the front air box under the hood where the fan resides and see if I can reach it from there. The only bad part about that is the glue that seals it. I can't imagine that's going to be easy to remove or readminister once disassembled.
On the other hand, summer's almost here and the A/C works.
Edited by silver12r on Thursday 1st March 00:03
The heater valve thing on the other end of the wire that goes from the red/blue knob is actually bolted to the top of the foot pedals. You should be able to get to it with the dash removed. It's not easy and takes a lot of fiddling about to get it right. The thermostat is a pain as well. For once, technical support couldn't help with this and they usually know everything. It seems to be a device which does the reverse of a thermostat and tries to keep the valve where it was last rather than moving it to where you put it. This means that after having the heater on hot, the valve will fight to stay open when you change the setting to fully cold.
I always wondered why the heater knob had detents at the end of its travel. Now I know! If the heater has been quite hot and you turn the knob to fully cold, it will jump back to about 20 past but will then go to fully cold if you try again 40 seconds later. The detent was obviously to create the illusion that there was no resistence to turning the knob all the way. It's like the thermostat is half a minute behind you.
I always wondered why the heater knob had detents at the end of its travel. Now I know! If the heater has been quite hot and you turn the knob to fully cold, it will jump back to about 20 past but will then go to fully cold if you try again 40 seconds later. The detent was obviously to create the illusion that there was no resistence to turning the knob all the way. It's like the thermostat is half a minute behind you.
You could do with finding if the cable is loose or snapped. I think you are going to need the dash out though.
When I had my heater fixed, the dealer quoted six hours. When they tried to say it had taken 42 hours, I simply quoted their receptionist who had said "It doesn't matter how long it takes, the charge is six hours" - Why not ask a Lotus main dealer for a price to replace the cable. If you agree a price beforehand, albeit top dollar, you should be able to insist on the dealer sticking to the price and this may be the best of the options on offer. At what latitude do you live? I am in North West England and the fixed heater was absolutely marvellous after three long winters without it!
When I had my heater fixed, the dealer quoted six hours. When they tried to say it had taken 42 hours, I simply quoted their receptionist who had said "It doesn't matter how long it takes, the charge is six hours" - Why not ask a Lotus main dealer for a price to replace the cable. If you agree a price beforehand, albeit top dollar, you should be able to insist on the dealer sticking to the price and this may be the best of the options on offer. At what latitude do you live? I am in North West England and the fixed heater was absolutely marvellous after three long winters without it!
Edited by toyroom on Sunday 4th March 20:56
Edited by toyroom on Sunday 4th March 20:57
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