Discussion
I've never tracked a car before, never been to an event where someone has. In light of my recent legal woes, the only time I'll ever be driving my car at a high rate of speed is on a track. So this year, I plan to do just that.
For the newbie who doesn't know squat about track days, what is the scoop? (Where, how, etc.)
Any information/advice, no matter how mundane will be greatly appreciated.
Mad Mike (in Virginia)
For the newbie who doesn't know squat about track days, what is the scoop? (Where, how, etc.)
Any information/advice, no matter how mundane will be greatly appreciated.
Mad Mike (in Virginia)
Mad Mike,
Track days are a great place to safely run your car at high speeds. Here is a link to www.ncracing.org They have some good reading on track day logistics and links to sites that offer tips on driving. Basically you need a helmet and that can even be rented at most tracks. Check to see if your insurance covers driving schools on a race track. Most do if you don’t time an event but check to be sure. The events are not races and are run very professionally with safety the number one priority. Beginners always get an instructor to ride along. The clubs are the best value in track schools.
Good Luck!
Dan
97 Yellow Esprit
www.certifiedwheels.com
Track days are a great place to safely run your car at high speeds. Here is a link to www.ncracing.org They have some good reading on track day logistics and links to sites that offer tips on driving. Basically you need a helmet and that can even be rented at most tracks. Check to see if your insurance covers driving schools on a race track. Most do if you don’t time an event but check to be sure. The events are not races and are run very professionally with safety the number one priority. Beginners always get an instructor to ride along. The clubs are the best value in track schools.
Good Luck!
Dan
97 Yellow Esprit
www.certifiedwheels.com
Mike, wow your gonna love it. I had my first go on the track two months ago, now I am hooked for good (so long as I can afford it) 
For your first go, I wouldn't worry about tinkering around with fuel etc too much as it really comes down to driver ability in these early stages. Best to get out there, get to know your car and brush up on new road handling skills, ie learning to control a drift around the corners etc. Scary but fun
Not sure about your laws for fun days on the track, but here we have to have a fire extinguisher mounted in the car. We made a light weight bracket just infront of the seat so I can reach it there. Looks cool too. Helmet, overalls and I find gloves are good too. All I did for start was check my oil after each blast, as you will use a bit. I had my tire pressure set on around 37psi. Some people here recommend higher, but see how you go, you can always let some air out if you feel like you are on marbles. Also fuel depends on how many laps you do each time, but I kept mine on under half full, otherwise its like carrying another person on board...who wants that! Let us know how you get on.
Kylie
For your first go, I wouldn't worry about tinkering around with fuel etc too much as it really comes down to driver ability in these early stages. Best to get out there, get to know your car and brush up on new road handling skills, ie learning to control a drift around the corners etc. Scary but fun
Not sure about your laws for fun days on the track, but here we have to have a fire extinguisher mounted in the car. We made a light weight bracket just infront of the seat so I can reach it there. Looks cool too. Helmet, overalls and I find gloves are good too. All I did for start was check my oil after each blast, as you will use a bit. I had my tire pressure set on around 37psi. Some people here recommend higher, but see how you go, you can always let some air out if you feel like you are on marbles. Also fuel depends on how many laps you do each time, but I kept mine on under half full, otherwise its like carrying another person on board...who wants that! Let us know how you get on.
Kylie
Do not take repeated high speed turns with a fuel tank filled up to the max. Sometimes the fuel will slosh back up the filler neck of the left fuel tank and go down the hose of charcoal canister if the canister fills up or the hose is rotted the raw gas has been known to ignite in the engine compartment usually causing the destruction of the Esprit.
Mike don't you have Frank Lu's old car? If so that is well put together car. Just go out and have fun. If you have any reservations about being on the track with others cars at the same time just keep your spacing and overtake on the exits of the turn and straights.
Have fun,
Calvin
>> Edited by cnh1990 on Tuesday 1st April 15:13
Mike don't you have Frank Lu's old car? If so that is well put together car. Just go out and have fun. If you have any reservations about being on the track with others cars at the same time just keep your spacing and overtake on the exits of the turn and straights.
Have fun,
Calvin
>> Edited by cnh1990 on Tuesday 1st April 15:13
Calvin,
Yep, I've got the Frank Lu Esprit (someday it might be known as the Mad Mike Esprit, but probably not until I do 50 mods myself
I feel perfectly confident in the car tracking it. My mechanic loves it, and says it's rock solid. It does need a tunable suspension...with the larger Kinesis rims it rides too high.
I probably won't do that this year though...but I might do my first do-it-your-selfer, and install a BOV.
Mad Mike
Yep, I've got the Frank Lu Esprit (someday it might be known as the Mad Mike Esprit, but probably not until I do 50 mods myself
I feel perfectly confident in the car tracking it. My mechanic loves it, and says it's rock solid. It does need a tunable suspension...with the larger Kinesis rims it rides too high.
I probably won't do that this year though...but I might do my first do-it-your-selfer, and install a BOV.
Mad Mike
Mike - you could do worse than this... www.pistonheads.com/trackdays/index.asp?storyId=4402
cnh1990 said: Funny you should mention tunable suspension. I just got a post about that from our local Lotus Guru who has figured it out. Would you like a copy of the email, it is rather long and details with parts and suppliers.
C'mon Calvin, share it with the class.... :-)
Cheers,
Sanj
Okay Sanj, here it is. I was not really sure how one takes to reading really long posts.
The following is a e-mail clip from fellow Lotus club member Tim Engel. Sanj, I'm sure you remember Tim as one of our more capable drivers and mechanics. It appears that only his son Jeremy is quicker on an autocross track at the past Lotus Owners Gathering your Lotus club (Lotus Corps of Chicago) sponsored.
Dave Cammak and I are both SE owners, we will attempt to assemble the adjustable suspension in a month or two. (My involvement in this project is limited to the extent that after pricing, if I can afford such a venture).
So here is the post. Kylie, you already have the copy of the e-mail. Sorry that the parts suppilers are in the USA.
Tim Engel said:
Hi guys,
Dave Cammack called looking for ideas on how to make his own adjustable
upper rear links for his SE... it seems that OEM parts are a little
pricey.
This is what I came up with and I thought you guys might find it
interesting
too. The following rambles a bit, but finally comes to a point.
Bear in mind that I don't have a link to look at and I don't know if
it's
straight with square ends or angled with skew ends. The latter would
complicate things a bit. I've done no engineering on this, but the
components are all off the shelf automotive specialty parts currently
used
in suspension systems... and they are rather husky. Strength
shouldn't be
much of an issue.
The rubber bushed rod end noted below is available with inner steel
sleeves
to fit 1/2", 9/16" and 5/8" bolts. If the Lotus chassis uses
metric
bolts, it would be relatively simple to make up new, metric inner
steel
sleeves for the urethane bushings.
Just thinking,
Tim
*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Pete & Jake's Hot Rod Parts
401 Legend Lane
Peculiar, MO 64078
(800) 334-7240 Sales
(816) 756-4504 Tech
(816) 758-4512 Fax
<www.peteandjakes.com/>
One of Martin Sheen's early movie appearances was in a black leather
jacket
movie called "The California Kid". Sort of a James Dean role. In
the
movie, Sheen drives a black '34 Ford Coupe street rod that was built
by
Pete of Pete-n-Jake's. The attention they got as a result of the
movie
launched 'em to the top of the hot rod parts industry.
They specialized is chassis and suspension systems... OEM
reproductions
frames, custom boxed frames, live rear axles, IRS, dropped front
ends,
independent fronts, Ford, Chevy, you name it. You could build a
street
rod chassis from their catalog.
Anyway, one of their in-house proprietary parts is a rubber bushed rod
end.
All their suspension setups were available with the option of spherical
rod
ends or their own rubber rod ends. I made a mental note of them a
long
time ago and figured they could come in handy some day.
Tonight, I checked the website and they still have them listed, but
now
with urethane bushings. The original part (way back when) was
made to
accept your choice of standard Ford or Chevy steel-rubber-steel,
press-in
suspension bushings. I haven't searched the website more thoroughly
to see
if the original versions are still available, but either way (rubber
or
urethane), you can have both adjustability "and" rubber isolation.
Pete & Jake's Catalog... Hot Rod Parts section (website)
<www.peteandjakes.com/34-54.html>
One page from that catalog section (*.pdf file)
<www.peteandjakes.com/media/pdf/Page_34.pdf>
Open this *.pdf file and scroll to the upper left corner of the
page...
look for the "Adjustable Bar End". Straight (90 degree), 9-degree
or
5-degree skew angles (stud not perpendicular to bushing tube), 1/2,
9/16,
or 5/8 bore. 5/8-18 threaded shank.
<www.peteandjakes.com/media/pdf/Page_36.pdf>
Open this *.pdf file and scroll to the lower left corner of the
page...
look for the "Heavy Duty Adjustable End". Straight (90 degree), 1/2"
or
5/8" bore, and 3/4-16 threaded shank. Also check out the "Weld-In
Threaded Insert". Now all you need is some steel tubing and a welder.
*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Lou Feger's Racing Equipment is a local circle track specialist:
Lou Feger's Racing Equipment
512 East Hwy 12
Delano, MN 55328
(763) 972-3923 Phone
(763) 972-6658
(800) 328-3618
e-mail
<www.loufegersracing.com/> website
The following pages from their online catalog have bits that could be
used
for making adjustable rear upper lateral links.
<www.loufegersracing.com/swaged.html>
1/8" wall STEEL tubing, swaged and threaded ends.
Deep knurl outside for easy length adjustments.
1" OD / 3/4" ID
3/4-16 RH & LH threads (that would be a BIG spherical rod end)
7" to 30" lengths in 1.0" increments.
7/8" OD / 5/8 ID
5/8-18 RH & LH threads
5" to 16" lengths in 0.5" increments.
<www.loufegersracing.com/aluminum.html>
1/8" wall ALUMINUM tubing, swaged and threaded ends.
1" OD / 3/4" ID round
3/4-16 RH & LH threads (again, a BIG spherical rod end)
11" to 27" lengths in 1.0" increments.
7/8" HEX / 5/8" ID
5/8-18 RH & LH threads
8" to 18" lengths in 1.0" increments.
<www.loufegersracing.com/rodends.html>
Spherical Rod Ends (pretty harsh in a street car).
*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Combine Feger's swaged, threaded tubes with Pete & Jake's rubber /
urethane bushed rod ends and you should be able to make a straight and
square-end adjustable upper lateral link without cutting or welding.
An
angled arm with skewed ends will require a little more work.
*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
FYI... for gits and shiggles:
For adjustable length arms, it's typical to use the same thread pitch
at
both ends, but left and right handed. Another way to accomplish the
same
thing but with finer adjustment per turn is to use two different
threads.
For instance, 3/4-16 RH at one end and 5/8-18 RH on the other end.
Both
are right handed, but one thread advances 1/16 inch per turn and the
other
advances 1/18 inch per turn. A difference of only 1/144 inch per
turn...
about .007" per turn.
Quickly adjust the initial set-up length by removing the chassis or hub
carrier attachment bolt and turning one rod end at a time. Then zero
in on
the final setting with micrometer precision by rotating the arm tube
itself,
thus turning both rod ends at the same time. One threads inward while
the
other threads outward, for differential advance. Tighten the jamb
nuts...
safety wire sounds good.
This gives verrrry fine adjustment for the truly anal racer, but is
probably not worth it with rubber bushed street suspension.
Later,
Tim
The following is a e-mail clip from fellow Lotus club member Tim Engel. Sanj, I'm sure you remember Tim as one of our more capable drivers and mechanics. It appears that only his son Jeremy is quicker on an autocross track at the past Lotus Owners Gathering your Lotus club (Lotus Corps of Chicago) sponsored.
Dave Cammak and I are both SE owners, we will attempt to assemble the adjustable suspension in a month or two. (My involvement in this project is limited to the extent that after pricing, if I can afford such a venture).
So here is the post. Kylie, you already have the copy of the e-mail. Sorry that the parts suppilers are in the USA.
Tim Engel said:
Hi guys,
Dave Cammack called looking for ideas on how to make his own adjustable
upper rear links for his SE... it seems that OEM parts are a little
pricey.
This is what I came up with and I thought you guys might find it
interesting
too. The following rambles a bit, but finally comes to a point.
Bear in mind that I don't have a link to look at and I don't know if
it's
straight with square ends or angled with skew ends. The latter would
complicate things a bit. I've done no engineering on this, but the
components are all off the shelf automotive specialty parts currently
used
in suspension systems... and they are rather husky. Strength
shouldn't be
much of an issue.
The rubber bushed rod end noted below is available with inner steel
sleeves
to fit 1/2", 9/16" and 5/8" bolts. If the Lotus chassis uses
metric
bolts, it would be relatively simple to make up new, metric inner
steel
sleeves for the urethane bushings.
Just thinking,
Tim
*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Pete & Jake's Hot Rod Parts
401 Legend Lane
Peculiar, MO 64078
(800) 334-7240 Sales
(816) 756-4504 Tech
(816) 758-4512 Fax
<www.peteandjakes.com/>
One of Martin Sheen's early movie appearances was in a black leather
jacket
movie called "The California Kid". Sort of a James Dean role. In
the
movie, Sheen drives a black '34 Ford Coupe street rod that was built
by
Pete of Pete-n-Jake's. The attention they got as a result of the
movie
launched 'em to the top of the hot rod parts industry.
They specialized is chassis and suspension systems... OEM
reproductions
frames, custom boxed frames, live rear axles, IRS, dropped front
ends,
independent fronts, Ford, Chevy, you name it. You could build a
street
rod chassis from their catalog.
Anyway, one of their in-house proprietary parts is a rubber bushed rod
end.
All their suspension setups were available with the option of spherical
rod
ends or their own rubber rod ends. I made a mental note of them a
long
time ago and figured they could come in handy some day.
Tonight, I checked the website and they still have them listed, but
now
with urethane bushings. The original part (way back when) was
made to
accept your choice of standard Ford or Chevy steel-rubber-steel,
press-in
suspension bushings. I haven't searched the website more thoroughly
to see
if the original versions are still available, but either way (rubber
or
urethane), you can have both adjustability "and" rubber isolation.
Pete & Jake's Catalog... Hot Rod Parts section (website)
<www.peteandjakes.com/34-54.html>
One page from that catalog section (*.pdf file)
<www.peteandjakes.com/media/pdf/Page_34.pdf>
Open this *.pdf file and scroll to the upper left corner of the
page...
look for the "Adjustable Bar End". Straight (90 degree), 9-degree
or
5-degree skew angles (stud not perpendicular to bushing tube), 1/2,
9/16,
or 5/8 bore. 5/8-18 threaded shank.
<www.peteandjakes.com/media/pdf/Page_36.pdf>
Open this *.pdf file and scroll to the lower left corner of the
page...
look for the "Heavy Duty Adjustable End". Straight (90 degree), 1/2"
or
5/8" bore, and 3/4-16 threaded shank. Also check out the "Weld-In
Threaded Insert". Now all you need is some steel tubing and a welder.
*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Lou Feger's Racing Equipment is a local circle track specialist:
Lou Feger's Racing Equipment
512 East Hwy 12
Delano, MN 55328
(763) 972-3923 Phone
(763) 972-6658
(800) 328-3618
<www.loufegersracing.com/> website
The following pages from their online catalog have bits that could be
used
for making adjustable rear upper lateral links.
<www.loufegersracing.com/swaged.html>
1/8" wall STEEL tubing, swaged and threaded ends.
Deep knurl outside for easy length adjustments.
1" OD / 3/4" ID
3/4-16 RH & LH threads (that would be a BIG spherical rod end)
7" to 30" lengths in 1.0" increments.
7/8" OD / 5/8 ID
5/8-18 RH & LH threads
5" to 16" lengths in 0.5" increments.
<www.loufegersracing.com/aluminum.html>
1/8" wall ALUMINUM tubing, swaged and threaded ends.
1" OD / 3/4" ID round
3/4-16 RH & LH threads (again, a BIG spherical rod end)
11" to 27" lengths in 1.0" increments.
7/8" HEX / 5/8" ID
5/8-18 RH & LH threads
8" to 18" lengths in 1.0" increments.
<www.loufegersracing.com/rodends.html>
Spherical Rod Ends (pretty harsh in a street car).
*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
Combine Feger's swaged, threaded tubes with Pete & Jake's rubber /
urethane bushed rod ends and you should be able to make a straight and
square-end adjustable upper lateral link without cutting or welding.
An
angled arm with skewed ends will require a little more work.
*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*
FYI... for gits and shiggles:
For adjustable length arms, it's typical to use the same thread pitch
at
both ends, but left and right handed. Another way to accomplish the
same
thing but with finer adjustment per turn is to use two different
threads.
For instance, 3/4-16 RH at one end and 5/8-18 RH on the other end.
Both
are right handed, but one thread advances 1/16 inch per turn and the
other
advances 1/18 inch per turn. A difference of only 1/144 inch per
turn...
about .007" per turn.
Quickly adjust the initial set-up length by removing the chassis or hub
carrier attachment bolt and turning one rod end at a time. Then zero
in on
the final setting with micrometer precision by rotating the arm tube
itself,
thus turning both rod ends at the same time. One threads inward while
the
other threads outward, for differential advance. Tighten the jamb
nuts...
safety wire sounds good.
This gives verrrry fine adjustment for the truly anal racer, but is
probably not worth it with rubber bushed street suspension.
Later,
Tim
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