Carburettor overhaul ?

Carburettor overhaul ?

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Discussion

esp88

Original Poster:

40 posts

260 months

Sunday 19th January 2003
quotequote all
Hi I'm new in the site, and this is the first time
I send a question/ need advice for my Espirt turbo (1988) U.K version which I bought in U.K 12 months ago.
I started read this site since last sommer and I think
site is great!
My Esprit problem are could be the samme as others like: started with bad cluch which replaced now and found bad left fuel tanks leak, bad exhaust manifold, olie leak from camskaft housnings, bad 1/4windows,problem with the window lift motors, ... also leak from carblurettors.
Is any body overhaul DellortoDHLA 45 Caburettor or replace gaskets ?
Any instructions please !


lotusguy

1,798 posts

262 months

Monday 20th January 2003
quotequote all

Hi I'm new in the site, and this is the first time
I send a question/ need advice for my Espirt turbo (1988) U.K version which I bought in U.K 12 months ago.
I started read this site since last sommer and I think
site is great!
My Esprit problem are could be the samme as others like: started with bad cluch which replaced now and found bad left fuel tanks leak, bad exhaust manifold, olie leak from camskaft housnings, bad 1/4windows,problem with the window lift motors, ... also leak from carblurettors.
Is any body overhaul DellortoDHLA 45 Caburettor or replace gaskets ?
Any instructions please !






Hi,

If your carbs are leaking, do not run the car at all until you rebuild them!!!!

These carbs will leak directly onto your starter/solenoid both of which are prone to spark which will ignite a fire. Don't take a chance, the likelyhood of a fire is greater than 50/50.

Contact Eurocarb @ www.dellorto.co.uk/ to order your rebuild kits, write in care of Matthew Cooper. Also, make sure your floats are in good order. To check this, you must weigh each one and they should weigh 8 grams, if not, replace them. It's also a good time to replace the needle valve and seat. Both these components are extra, and do not come with the rebuild kit. Hope this helps....Happy Motoring...Jim '85TE

esp88

Original Poster:

40 posts

260 months

Monday 20th January 2003
quotequote all
Thanks Jim

I bought overhaul kit from SJsportscar and I checked www.dellortoco.uk site now.

I'm thinking removed the carburettors next weekend if
weather is not cold.
First I have to remove carb. but where is the easy way to start any suggestion ?

Regards

lotusguy

1,798 posts

262 months

Monday 20th January 2003
quotequote all

esp88 said: Thanks Jim

I bought overhaul kit from SJsportscar and I checked www.dellortoco.uk site now.

I'm thinking removed the carburettors next weekend if
weather is not cold.
First I have to remove carb. but where is the easy way to start any suggestion ?

Regards



'88,

Rebuilding dellorto DHLA carbs is almost ridiculously easy. The key is proper disassembly and cleaning of each component.

It will help greatly if you have a compressed air supply so that you can soak the parts in solvent and then 'blow' them dry using the comp. air. There are many small air passages in the emulsion tubes and jets which you cannot, due to the precision nature of these passages, put anything through them. Also, make sure you have a good solvent and a stiff nylon bristled brush. Mineral spirits are not the best thing to use. Gasoline, while ok to use as a solvent is very volatile and due to the lengthy exposure, is not the most pleasant thing to use either. Try getting a solvent which is a dedicated carb cleaner (available at most aurto parts stores). These cleaners will list either 'Tolulene' or 'Methyl Chlorate' as their primary ingredients. A byproduct of using gasoline in carbs is that it deposits a 'varnish' on all the parts, this varnish must be dissolved and wiped clean.

First, as you have two carbs, do one at a time. This gives you the other to use as a reference. Second, as the carbs contain a number of small parts, it really helps to use a disposable aluminum baking pan to do the work in. This will contain any small parts and is leakproof for soaking the parts. Avoid turning the carbs over unless it's in this pan as there is a check ball valve which will be very difficult to find if you lose it.

Be very careful not to bend the shaft which holds the throttle plates as this is split and not at all strong. There is really no reason to disassemble these if the bearings and bushings operate smoothly. Remove the throttle plates carefully and be sure to line them back up on reassembly so that no light is visible around them when closed. Again, the brass screws securing these to the throttle plate shaft are very prone to stripping, be very careful when removing/replacing them. Plan on replacing the needle valve and seats as these are neoprene rather than the more common brass and more subject to wear. Also, carefully inspect the mixture adjustment screws, these are conically graduated and if 'grauched', even slightly, will make tuning the carbs near impossible. Make sure to properly set the Floats. You do this by holding the cover, to which they are attached, perpendiculat to the ground. Now, with the float 'arm' just touching the needle valve, you must set a gap of 14mm between the float and the underside of the carb top allowing for the thickness of the gasket. You carefully bend the float arm until the proper gap is achieved.

When replacing the carbs, be sure to maintain the proper gap on the soft mount rubber 'doughnuts' which should also be replaced at this time. Carefully seat all the mixture screws (do not 'grauch' them) and open them 31/2 to four turns. This will allow you to start the car. Now, using a 4 tube manometer (Morgan makes an excellent tool - CarbtuneII for this purpose). It's fairly inexpensive from Eurocarb and is indispensible to properly tuning the carbs, omce you have it, tuning the carbs at each engine tune will be easy to do. I permanently mounted the adjustment tubes to my carbs using an 'O' ring and have capped them with neoprene vacuum capping caps - this makes future hook-up of the Carbtune II a breeze.

Once the engine is warmed up, turn the idle speed screw 'til you are turning 950-1,000 rpm. Hook up the Carbtune II and with engine running, carefully close all the mixture screws. Note which barrel on each carb registers the lowest reading and open up the mixture screw on the stronger barrel to lower it's level 'til it matches the weaker one to within 3mm. Do this for both carbs. At this point, you will have only one mixture screw open on each carb. If at any point your idle speed drops below 950-1,00rpm, reset it using the idle speed screw. Finally, turn the carb synchronizing screw on the carb linkage to make the stronger of the two carbs match the weaker one. Tighten everything up and check to make sure no readings have changed, if nothing changes, you're done, if it has, you must start over again. One note, using this method, you are tuning the carbs for maximum performance and not necessarily for optimum emissions - you need an exhaust gass analyzer for this, or could substitute a multimeter w/ aligator clips attached to the signal wire of your O2 sensor, then you set the carbs to a specific output voltage on the O2 sensor which is directly relative to the amount of O2 passing by the sensor. Hope this helps...Happy Motoring...Jim '85TE





>> Edited by lotusguy on Monday 20th January 15:16

esp88

Original Poster:

40 posts

260 months

Monday 20th January 2003
quotequote all
Thank you very much Jim

Your comment giv me a great help and it give me much confidence to do me self work done !
I will also contact Eurocab to find out the tool
you suggested

Regards
YH

lotusguy

1,798 posts

262 months

Monday 20th January 2003
quotequote all

esp88 said: Thank you very much Jim

Your comment giv me a great help and it give me much confidence to do me self work done !
I will also contact Eurocab to find out the tool
you suggested

Regards
YH


VH,

No problem. Feel free to contact me if you get stuck or need further 'coaching'. Happy Motoring...Jim '85TE