'90 SE WARNING: DANGEROUS CONTROL ARM PROBLEM
Discussion
If you own a '90 SE (and perhaps other models), check the bolt on the lower control arm that is next to the engine mounts. There is only one bolt on the long arm near the mounts. My bolt seized in the arm (it was lodged and would not move, had to be hammered out) and snapped while driving. This caused the car to lower on top of the rear left wheel, nearly spinning me out of control. I was able to regain control of the car and no damage was done. This could have been fatal at high speeds. If you own this car, please check these bolts, I replaced them ON BOTH SIDES with lubricated hardened steel bolts and washers, USE LOCK NUTS WHEN REPLACING. Good Luck...ryan
Ryan,
What you are describing are the radius arm mounting bolts. Before anyone panicks here, this is one of the largest bolts on the car and the likelyhood of them snapping is very remote. I suspect that one of 2 things happened to it. First, this is a very torque critical bolt and the torque spec is 40-45 ft./lbs. , if overtightened, it will be prone to failure, especially if riding on rough or potholed roads. Secondly, I hope you took the oppotunity to replace the rubber radius arm mounts. These would now be 12 years old and if softened sufficiently from age/use, they could stress the bolt sufficiently to cause it to bend (thereby causing it to sieze in the radius arm), and fail. The radius arm mounts are mounted by 2 bolts with a torque of 20-25 ft./lbs. Glad to hear you're ok... Jim '85TE
What you are describing are the radius arm mounting bolts. Before anyone panicks here, this is one of the largest bolts on the car and the likelyhood of them snapping is very remote. I suspect that one of 2 things happened to it. First, this is a very torque critical bolt and the torque spec is 40-45 ft./lbs. , if overtightened, it will be prone to failure, especially if riding on rough or potholed roads. Secondly, I hope you took the oppotunity to replace the rubber radius arm mounts. These would now be 12 years old and if softened sufficiently from age/use, they could stress the bolt sufficiently to cause it to bend (thereby causing it to sieze in the radius arm), and fail. The radius arm mounts are mounted by 2 bolts with a torque of 20-25 ft./lbs. Glad to hear you're ok... Jim '85TE
Calvin,
My Lotus gave no warning of failure. I just snapped and it was scarry as hell. Imagine one of your rear tires turning, the other frozen, it puts you into a natural turn that you are nearly powerless to correct. It takes some effort to regain control and to avoid hitting anything around you. You have to counterstear and hit the brakes hard to lock the other wheel...not much fun when you are not expecting it.
Lotusguy,
Thanks for the post, I will replace the rubber pieces as well. I ordered them from JAE today. Jeff told me to use anti-sieze instead of grease (he says Lotus assembles them dry), so I will be changing that as well. Your explanation as to why this happened was very helpful and much appreciated. Once these repairs have been completed, I will have my driving confidence with the car again.
Many thanks,
Ryan
My Lotus gave no warning of failure. I just snapped and it was scarry as hell. Imagine one of your rear tires turning, the other frozen, it puts you into a natural turn that you are nearly powerless to correct. It takes some effort to regain control and to avoid hitting anything around you. You have to counterstear and hit the brakes hard to lock the other wheel...not much fun when you are not expecting it.
Lotusguy,
Thanks for the post, I will replace the rubber pieces as well. I ordered them from JAE today. Jeff told me to use anti-sieze instead of grease (he says Lotus assembles them dry), so I will be changing that as well. Your explanation as to why this happened was very helpful and much appreciated. Once these repairs have been completed, I will have my driving confidence with the car again.
Many thanks,
Ryan
Ryan,
Glad to hear you're addressing the radius arm mounts as well. If you are doing it yourself, remember that these bolts need to be torqued while the radius arm is under load. The best way to do this is to place a jack under the wheel enough to compress the suspension under load, or just about lift the car off the jackstand, then tighten to torque. Also, be sure to replace all the washers in exactly the same sequence that they came off as these are responsible for creating the proper toe-in angle. If in doubt that their order has been maintained, have the toe-in checked at an alignment shop. You may have to use a rubber mallet to get the old mounts out and the new ones in, but they will go pretty easily. Do not use grease on the mount to get it into the hole as the rubber needs to be dry to properly grab the mount hole once compressed. Hope this helps...Jim '85TE
Glad to hear you're addressing the radius arm mounts as well. If you are doing it yourself, remember that these bolts need to be torqued while the radius arm is under load. The best way to do this is to place a jack under the wheel enough to compress the suspension under load, or just about lift the car off the jackstand, then tighten to torque. Also, be sure to replace all the washers in exactly the same sequence that they came off as these are responsible for creating the proper toe-in angle. If in doubt that their order has been maintained, have the toe-in checked at an alignment shop. You may have to use a rubber mallet to get the old mounts out and the new ones in, but they will go pretty easily. Do not use grease on the mount to get it into the hole as the rubber needs to be dry to properly grab the mount hole once compressed. Hope this helps...Jim '85TE
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