84 TURBO SPUTTERS AT LOW SPEEDS

[JAYACHTEN]

I HAVE A 1984 S2 TURBO .IT STARTS HARD AND HAVE VERY POOR RESOPNCE OFF IDLE. THEN AT 2200 RPM ITS FINE . I REPLACED VACUME HOSES NEW PLUGS . ALSO THE FULE GAUGE AND TURN SIGNAL STOP WORKING? ALSO THE HEATER ONLY BLOWS TO DEFROST . ANY IDEA WHATS UP . THANKS JAY CELL 602 206 9279 . OH YES THE BREAKS PLUSE WHRN APPLIED TOO. I ALSO BOUGHT A 92 SE TOO . GET IT TODAY . WOW 2 LOTUS IN TWO WEEKS ...

[lotusguy]

I HAVE A 1984 S2 TURBO .IT STARTS HARD AND HAVE VERY POOR RESOPNCE OFF IDLE. THEN AT 2200 RPM ITS FINE . I REPLACED VACUME HOSES NEW PLUGS . ALSO THE FULE GAUGE AND TURN SIGNAL STOP WORKING? ALSO THE HEATER ONLY BLOWS TO DEFROST . ANY IDEA WHATS UP . THANKS JAY CELL 602 206 9279 . OH YES THE BREAKS PLUSE WHRN APPLIED TOO. I ALSO BOUGHT A 92 SE TOO . GET IT TODAY . WOW 2 LOTUS IN TWO WEEKS ...

Jay,

Congratulations on your new toys. Since you have 2 of these cars, do yourself a big favor and get the Service Notes (Shop Manual) and Parts List for each. This is essential if you plan on doing any of the work on the car yourself and will pay you back big time on saved labor and much less frustration. With respect to your '84, you have several issues, none of which are related. As far as your turn signal, you may have a: blown fuse, b: worn switch, c: bad flasher, d: burned out bulbs or e: breaks in your wiring. Do you have any indicators once you activate the signals? If so, you can eliminate a. The only way to test b, d and e is to either use a multitester and check for continuity when you close the switch. To check d, put the multitester on the 2 poles of the bulb and if good, you should get continuity. Checking e requires testing the poles of the light sockets. There is really no easy way to test the flasher, but these are cheap so I'd just replace it to be sure.

As far as hard starting and off idle stumble, this is most certainly carb related and can range from untuned carbs, carbs out of sync, leaks in the carb to manifold soft mounts, improper float heights, a leaky float, worn or clogged needle valves and seats, c;ogged idle jets or carb filters, bad fuel regulator or improperly set or failed micro switch. It could also be the result of your mechanical timing being off caused by the timing belt jumping a tooth. If you plan on keeping the car, I would first rebuild the carbs, not a difficult task at all, cost about $130 for both. It could also be vacuum related as after 2,200, sufficient vacuum is produced to cover for any leak in the system. Hope this helps...Jim '85TE

As far as your fuel gauge, again it could be bad wiring, loose or corroded connectors or a bad voltage stabilizer or poor ground to same. Again, tracing with a multitester will narrow this down.

As far as the heater is concerned, it's probably a loose vacuum connector or dried, rotted vacuum hose, plan on replacing all vacuum lines as any poor vacuum connection will affect all vacuum dependent items.