Shortening the throw on the shift lever

Shortening the throw on the shift lever

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Discussion

wcdeane

Original Poster:

210 posts

267 months

Monday 28th October 2002
quotequote all
I remember a few months ago seeing or reading something on this forum to the effect that one can shorten the throw on the 2nd gear shift by doing something with the shift cables. Anyone care to advise on how to go about doing this?

Walt '91 SE

cnh1990

3,035 posts

268 months

Monday 28th October 2002
quotequote all
Invert the translator that the cables are attached to.

wcdeane

Original Poster:

210 posts

267 months

Tuesday 29th October 2002
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Thanks Calvin. I don't have a schematic in front of me right now, and I'm curious. Is that on the transmission end, or the shifter end of the cables?

Walt

cnh1990

3,035 posts

268 months

Tuesday 29th October 2002
quotequote all
Transmission side and it is a lever type device.
Calvin

wcdeane

Original Poster:

210 posts

267 months

Tuesday 29th October 2002
quotequote all
Thanks, Calvin.

5150neo

154 posts

274 months

Thursday 31st October 2002
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Hey Calvin. I don't mean to be difficult but could you elaborate on inverting the translator. I looked at the drawing and its just not clicking with me. I must be suffering from something similar to writers block.
Thanks

cnh1990

3,035 posts

268 months

Thursday 31st October 2002
quotequote all
Sorry maybe a bad choice of words and not enough detail. This so different from chatting on the phone or in person. So everyone if am not clear ask for a clarification. All you do is disconnect the two gear change cables at the translator and move it from the bottom to the top of the translator. There are two nut/bolts and ball joint ends, move it to the top and
rebolt it...thats it. Inverting the linkages at the rear translator will give you a shorter throw (33% shorter)at the shifter, All of the linkages would have to be adjusted to make the gears shift properly, once this mod has been made. Remeber how it was setup originally so you can always put back the way it was if you don't like the feel.
Good luck,
Calvin

tahiti90se

11 posts

264 months

Thursday 31st October 2002
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If you reduce the shift throw by 33% on an SE, will it be similar to an S4s?

5150neo

154 posts

274 months

Friday 1st November 2002
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Okay. Thats what I was thinking at first but then I thought, no, it may be a little more involved than that. Anyway. Good. Simple improvments are welcome with open arms.
Thanks once again Calvin

John

cnh1990

3,035 posts

268 months

Friday 1st November 2002
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The shifting will better but the S4s has a revised shifter mechinism. This modification does not cost any money, only our time. But has been shown to improve drivability. An improvement but it does not make it feel like an S4s. Also during conversations with other people there is a pad that needs adjustments on the shift lever side that I have been told will make the need to shift in to 1st before reverse go away. It also helps keep the 1st-2nd alignment rock solid and easier shift to do. I will keep you informed after I investigate this proceedure with my car and see if this particular proceedure is worth the time an effort as the center console must be removed. It will be a winter time project after I lay up the Esprit for it's winter hibernation. I still have a few short weeks of driving if the weather holds up.
Regards,
Calvin 90 SE

d didit

59 posts

270 months

Friday 1st November 2002
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Hi Calvin and All,

I just did the translator cable inverted mount. These are the things that happened. After I removed the cables. I immediately moved them to the top of the inverter. This took about 5-10 min. When I moved them, I took note of the amount the cable adjust would have to extend given the Hiem joint dimensions. Afterwards, I got in the car and test the shift pattern throw, Wow! what a diiference this mod made. I feel like I am in a Indy Car.

However, what I had notice is that after you do this, actually, before you do this, remove the shift boot and gaiter. Take note of the postion and mark the inhibitor block so that you will not loose the fore/aft postion. Then shift in 1st and second and take note of the clearance between the inhibitor block and lift collar. If out of adjustment, fix this now so that you wont have problems later. I have about 1/16 inch of clearance from the inhibitor block in when in first and second. Shift lever and check that you can go into first and second easily after this. After moving the cabels, you can adjust the cable lengths to get the same position as stock. I found out the hard way and so I did all the adjustments afterwards. In the Service notes, they say it should lean slightly to the right. I did this and made sure that the Shift lever bolt did not interfere with the right side bellcrank. When you open it up, you will see what I mean. I am just wondering why the actual shift lever did not have a neutral spring default positioner. Unless mine broke or something, you have to rely on the transmission springs to position this. Hard to explain in words but let me know if your's are the same. One thing that will make this easy is just have someone hold the shift lever very steady in the neutral as you amove and adjust the cables!

As a final note, this mod is great if you like the feel of quick engagement. The only thing that will cause a minor headache is when you shift into reverse, the right translator heim joint interferes with the translator tie rod mounting point. The fix, grind just enough to get clearance. But don't grind the heim joint just the sheetmetal in comes in contact with. Shift into reverse and you see the picture. Have fun! By myself, this took only 20 mins tops!

Oh by the way, I will be mounting my new HRE 447R wheels today. 19x10 and 18x8. This baby should be screaming look at me! He heh.

Cheers,
Dindo

cnh1990

3,035 posts

268 months

Friday 1st November 2002
quotequote all
Way to go, very good.
Shoot us pictures of the new wheels when they are in.
Calvin

tahiti90se

11 posts

264 months

Saturday 2nd November 2002
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My name is Teava, I live in Tahiti and I will receive the 90 Esprit SE I bought from Moto-Concept 6 months ago. It will be the first ever Lotus in Tahiti. Thanks for this tip.
Teava

cnh1990

3,035 posts

268 months

Sunday 3rd November 2002
quotequote all
Teava,
Tahiti is a far place from a Lotus dealer or service center is it not? The roads there must be much like how Hawaii was when I was growning up there in my Elan and Europa days. Road speeds there must be on low side. Is the car you have equiped with the updated chip with a lower rpm turbo boost? If so it might be a good idea to have it as you will play in lower and mid range power bands more than than the roads I currently play in.
Calvin 90 SE

tahiti90se

11 posts

264 months

Sunday 3rd November 2002
quotequote all
Calvin,
Tahiti is indeed compable to Oahu (before). We don't have long freeways, so accelaration and low to mid rpm horsepower is much needed instead of
top speed. I asked Moto-Concept to install their chip before shipping the car. I plan on installing a ball-bearing turbo later. I suppose a T3 with S4s spec compressor will be excellent. I will install a close ratio gearset from Renault Sport which was intended for the R5 turbo rally car (the same as the Esprit, R25 or Alpine gearbox). A friend of mine is selling one of these gearsets. They are still syncromesh, not dog type and you reach 145 mph on 5th at 7400 rpm (with stock diameter tires). Which is more than enough for our roads. All the gear ratios are much shorter than stock (around 17%) except that 1st gear is slightly longer to improve off the line traction and reduce damaging torque. There is no Lotus dealer here, so I will order the parts either from the U.S or from SJ sportscar in England. I can do the work by myself. If I need advice, I can always ask on the net. Being isolated in the middle of the Pacific will not prevent me for achieving my dream. The car arrives on the 12th of December. Can't wait. Old Lotus lover but new Lotus owner.
TEAVA

cnh1990

3,035 posts

268 months

Sunday 3rd November 2002
quotequote all
Excellent choices for your use.
A ball bearing turbo will be nice.
Calvin 90 SE

tahiti90se

11 posts

264 months

Sunday 3rd November 2002
quotequote all
Thanks
TEAVA.

wcdeane

Original Poster:

210 posts

267 months

Tuesday 19th November 2002
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Calvin: You said in one of your replies to this topic “All you do is disconnect the two gear change cables at the translator and move it from the bottom to the top of the translator”. Do you mean…move them, the cables, to the topside of the flanges on the translator?

Walt

lotusguy

1,798 posts

262 months

Tuesday 19th November 2002
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Hi all,

Two suggestions if trying to improve the shift of your tranny. Since you are taking it all apart anyway, I highly suggest replacing the crossgate cable at the same time. These cables stretch over time and can actually stretch to the point where they cannot be properly adjusted with the amount of play allowed by the threaded ends. It helps to have 2 guys when changing this cable (Thanks again Calvin), but as Calvin can tell you, it's not a really difficult job. Another suggestion is to replace the thin, flimsy crossgate extension rod with the MOD available from SJSportscars (Part # SJ503). Their extension rod is made of much 'beefier' stainless steel with a heim joint on the end. This allows all the force transmitted by the cable to be applied to moving the crossgate rather than flexing the puny, stock extension rod. The cost of this MOD is less than $50 and actually closer to $30USD...well worth the investment. Your shifter will feel tight and strong and the shift to reverse is a breeze...Jim '85TE

>> Edited by lotusguy on Tuesday 19th November 20:56

cnh1990

3,035 posts

268 months

Thursday 21st November 2002
quotequote all
Yes move the cables.
Calvin