turbo removal woes
Discussion
Sending her out for a rebuild and an upgrade to super 60 specs. All of the oil and water lines came off, as did the downpipe bolts. The manifold bolts however are going to be a disaster. I was able to cut 3 of the 4 retaining strips but the one closest to the intake side of the motor is going to be impossible without more tools. The nuts themselves look pretty nicely siezed so I'm going to drive over to home depot and pick up a can of liquid wrench in addition to a flexible dremel extension so I can cut that last retainer. Any other tips before i start banging away on my knuckles again? Also looks like the outer/forward nut will have to be loosened as the turbo is lifted off the manifold as there is zero clearance there. Oh what joy!
Couple-a-comments:
Do not go with any compressor upgrades unless you have Squelch, Marcus or someone else that has extreme Loti experience do it. Trust me on this one.
Having put my turbo back on 4 times here just recently (see above comment), I can pull it now in 50 minutes flat from jacking the car up to putting the turbo on the bench. Putting it back on is about 2 hours or so, including setting the length on the rod, which whoever does your turbo will certainly screw up.
I am assuming you have the trunk out already. So, get a selection of large screwdrivers. Pull the bottom (drain) oil line. I covered the oil lines with aluminum foil and sealed the water lines with a bolt/clamp. Find a screwdriver that will fit back in there and bend the lock plate away from the nut. You may need to tap it a bit with a hammer to get it started. Use your favorite penetrating oil, probably overnight. I usually start with WD40. If that doesn't work (it won't for you) then I use PB Blaster, which I have had pretty good results with and other people swear by. My ultimate is Marvel's Miracle Mystery Oil, but it takes a lot longer. Be sure to use a high temp anti-seize when you put it back together. Yes, you need to lift the turbo to get at least one of the nuts off. A couple on mine. I probably should have cut an extra thread off my studs. The right front nut isn't really that bad. You can get to it with a box end of a combination wrench if you try really really hard and find just the right wrench, making sure the lock plate is bent out of the way. Once it is broke loose, then use the open end. Some stuby combination wrenches are invaluable, and a set of Stanley from Wally World will make you very happy. Use new nuts (usual suspects). They are pretty oddball, not in thread, but in size for the thread. German, I think. You will probably need new studs too. I bought some stainless ones online from metric something or other, but I had to cut them down. The usual suspects should have some stainless ones too. And don't forget new lockplates. You should have been on the group buy when I had a complete manifold set made with two sets of turbo plates. Otherwise they are probably ten bucks each.
Dr.Hess
Do not go with any compressor upgrades unless you have Squelch, Marcus or someone else that has extreme Loti experience do it. Trust me on this one.
Having put my turbo back on 4 times here just recently (see above comment), I can pull it now in 50 minutes flat from jacking the car up to putting the turbo on the bench. Putting it back on is about 2 hours or so, including setting the length on the rod, which whoever does your turbo will certainly screw up.
I am assuming you have the trunk out already. So, get a selection of large screwdrivers. Pull the bottom (drain) oil line. I covered the oil lines with aluminum foil and sealed the water lines with a bolt/clamp. Find a screwdriver that will fit back in there and bend the lock plate away from the nut. You may need to tap it a bit with a hammer to get it started. Use your favorite penetrating oil, probably overnight. I usually start with WD40. If that doesn't work (it won't for you) then I use PB Blaster, which I have had pretty good results with and other people swear by. My ultimate is Marvel's Miracle Mystery Oil, but it takes a lot longer. Be sure to use a high temp anti-seize when you put it back together. Yes, you need to lift the turbo to get at least one of the nuts off. A couple on mine. I probably should have cut an extra thread off my studs. The right front nut isn't really that bad. You can get to it with a box end of a combination wrench if you try really really hard and find just the right wrench, making sure the lock plate is bent out of the way. Once it is broke loose, then use the open end. Some stuby combination wrenches are invaluable, and a set of Stanley from Wally World will make you very happy. Use new nuts (usual suspects). They are pretty oddball, not in thread, but in size for the thread. German, I think. You will probably need new studs too. I bought some stainless ones online from metric something or other, but I had to cut them down. The usual suspects should have some stainless ones too. And don't forget new lockplates. You should have been on the group buy when I had a complete manifold set made with two sets of turbo plates. Otherwise they are probably ten bucks each.
Dr.Hess
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