Difficult getting into reverse

[cliffq]

I am having difficulty shifting into reverse with my 99 Esprit at times. Seems to works most of the time after first starting the car, but then can be almost impossible to shift in reverse once the car has been driven. I've bled the clutch and that seems to have helped somewhat, but before taking in to have the clutch plate inspected/replaced, wondering if I need to (or can) adjust the slave cylinder rod, etc. If so, don't know how.

[teigan]

it's probably your linkages need adjusting. pull off all the surround on the tunnel and have a closer look before paying anyone. they'd have to do the same thing on the clock. it may be the fragile pull up mechanism. that's easy to replace yourself.

[cliffq]

Thanks. By pull up mechanism are you talking about the mechanism connected to the collar on the gearshift? If so, to get access to this, do I only need to remove the surround or do I have to do something with the tunnel?

[DAVES_GT3]

i had a very similar problem on my gt3. That was the slave cylinder. the seal had broken down and contaminated the fluid. after replacing fluid and slave cylinder all was ok

dave

[jk1]

If I'm not mistaken there is no linkage adjustment at the shifter. Any adjustments have to be made at the translator in the rear of the car.

Is it grinding when you try to engage reverse or is it not going all the way to the left when you lift the collar?

Can you engage reverse with the engine off when this happens? If so, then it's probably a hydraulic problem. Bleed and check the slave and master cylinders as was mentioned.

If can't engage with engine on or off then it's a linkage or internal gearbox problem.

Good luck,
Jim

[cliffq]

Thx jk1

When I have the problem, the shifter goes all the way to the left, just cannot move shifter down.

If turn off the engine, then can get into reverse. Sometimes 1st is hard to get into as well.

Have already bled it a couple of times....could this be the clutch pad?

[Dr.Hess]

Sounds to me like the clutch is not releasing. There can be numerous causes including: Air in the line, balooning line, improper adjustment of clutch linkages on either or both ends, warped clutch disk and/or pressure plate, clutch disk splines rusted to transmission shaft, pilot (spigot) bearing, and probably more. You're just going to have to methodically go through each one, starting with the cheap and easy ones like bleeding the line and adjusting the linkages per the book and working your way down to the tough/expensive ones. I would not drive it like it is, as with the clutch not releasing, you will destroy the syncros. That will get real expensive real fast.

Dr.Hess

[jk1]

Dr. Hess pretty much covered it. One more thing for the list would be a bent clutch fork as I've heard of that happening on more than one occasion.

Good luck,

Jim

[cliffq]

Thanks guys. Is there a definite way to test if the clutch is not releasing? If it isn't will I need to have the tran split to check the syncros?

[B16 RFF]

Don't get too despondent.
Whilst all the above are theoretical causes of your problem, by far the most likely is that it's a problem with the linkage being worn or in need of adjustment, or possibly the clutch hydraulics. Both are fairly easy to fix.

Paul.

[Dr.Hess]

cliffq said:

Thanks guys. Is there a definite way to test if the clutch is not releasing?

Not shifting into reverse with the motor running, shifing fine with motor off is pretty much the gold standard diagnostic test. (You tested Postive for Clutch Not Releasing). Another would be the car creeping forward in 1st with the clutch pedal pressed down (clutch disengaged) and brake off. It has to be further gone for this to happen. Test #1 is more sensitive.

cliffq said:

If it isn't will I need to have the tran split to check the syncros?

Probably not. If it is shifting OK into second once you are rolling, your syncros are probably just fine (now) and if you fix the clutch (now) without driving it, you will be OK. When people drive their cars in this condition, that's when the trannies get destroyed. I've seen it happen on other vehicles too. A guy I knew (dumb neurosurgeon) had a new clutch put in his Jeep. After that, it "was always hard to put in 1st and reverse, would crunch when put in reverse." They drove it like that. Syncros crunched. I told him the shop probably put the clutch disk in backwards or otherwise screwed it up. Of course, the (same) shop denied that and sold him a tranny rebuild.

Dr.Hess

>> Edited by Dr.Hess on Saturday 30th July 14:32

[cliffq]

Thanks. Before I take it in I will try adjusting the linkage to see if that helps. I don't have a manual, so does anybody have the procedure for the later V8's (1999)?

[jk1]

cliffq said:

Thanks. Before I take it in I will try adjusting the linkage to see if that helps. I don't have a manual, so does anybody have the procedure for the later V8's (1999)?

If you still need it, email me and I'll send you what I've got.

[cliffq]

Jim and Dr. Hess. Looks like I am taking it in. One mechanic who test drove it thinks its the pilot bearing grabbing, although admits that is rare. Other thinks its a worn and possible damaged clutch plate but isn't worried about damage to the syncros as he believes it is disengaging enough now (I checked, jacked up car and there is no turning of wheels when in 1st and clutch in)

I'll keep you posted on the conclusion if you wish.

Thanks,

Cliff

[bazer]

had similar problem on my s4. turned out the thrust bearing was ceased slightly through lack of use and in turn wore away the fingers on pressure plate resulting in total loss of gears as thrust traveled right through. hope it isnt and its quick fix for you.