Right hand wheels rubs on full left lock

[zhastaph]

Slightly odd one;

On my 2000 v8 the right hand alloy fowls on the front part of the lower wishbone on full left hand lock - it's done it since I've had it so it's not a new thing {[i]meaning I haven't whacked anything[/i] ;)} and i have no uneven tyre wear etc ......

===============

Anyway, am I right in guessing that the resolution to this is to undo the track rod ball joint on each end of the steering rack and wind the left one in a couple of turns and the right one out a couple of turns then undo and adjust the steering wheel to be central again?

[lotusse89]

zhastaph said:

Slightly odd one; On my 2000 v8 the right hand alloy fowls on the front part of the lower wishbone on full left hand lock - it's done it since I've had it so it's not a new thing {meaning I haven't whacked anything } and i have no uneven tyre wear etc ...... =============== Anyway, am I right in guessing that the resolution to this is to undo the track rod ball joint on each end of the steering rack and wind the left one in a couple of turns and the right one out a couple of turns then undo and adjust the steering wheel to be central again?

NO do NOT do that. Get a proper alignment, you won't be very happy if you end up with toe-out on one side and toe-in on the other side! Handling will be poor, and you'll wear the tires strangely.

The Esprit should be able to go full lock, without the wheels hitting the suspension. You might have something else wrong down there. The tires may rub, but not the wheels.

Travis
Vulcan Grey 89SE
www.lotuscolorado.com/vulcangrey/

[scoule]

How much thread is available on each track rod?

[ragingfool]

sounds like your car may have been aligned with your steering rack off-center and your steering wheel removed and and placed back on at a compensated angle to center.
your steering rack is power, so not the same, but with the wheels straight ahead measure from the track rod center to the end of the large clamp on gaiter/boot. this distance should be same on both sides.
if it is not, you will have to do as you suggest to get it reasonbly centered, remove the steering wheel and put it back on center, then have it aligned.
chris
90SE

[zhastaph]

I think you're right, I hadn't considered compaing the amount of thread on the ends of each trackrod.

The side that doesn't rub has about 1/4 inch, the other side that does foul has less than half of that

Thanx guys

[zhastaph]

Yup, I've undone the side that fouls 3 turns and done up the side that's ok 3 turns. There's an even distance now between the wheel and the wishbone on both sides which ever lock it is on


I cant believe how much the steering wheel needs adjusting by though for such a small change on the rack

Cheers all

Col

[toyroom]

It's easy to tell if the rack is central by looking at the steering wheel on full lock. The wheel should have a "mirror image" position on full lock either way. ie if, on full left lock the wheel is facing exactly 90 degrees to the left then it should face exactly 90 degrees to the right on full right lock. The actual positions are slightly further round, I think, but if they don't mirror each other, you rack is not central.
Adjust the track rods until the rack ius centralised and then get the alignment set up correctly by adjusting both rods by exactly the same amount. If there is any doubt about the camber of the front wheels being "not negative enough" I would recommend toeing in the front wheels slightly more than factory spec. I did this to my '97 V8 and it cured a drastic tyre wear problem by 90%.
Better still, get a 4 wheel set up done ! It's not expensive and will probably pay for itself with the first set of tyres you don't need !