Suspension bushes ........
Discussion
Hello all 
It's time for job number 17.
There's a bit of clonking/movement coming from the front left hand wheel of my Esprit when changing between acceleration and braking. I've also noticed that she's started to slide at the front more when pushed hard round a roundabout.
I'm reasonably sure it's bush related, there's some movement in the front most bush on the lower wishbone and I think that this is causing the front wheel to toe in and out a bit.
I've received a complete polyurethane set from Marucs this morning.
Before I dive straight in and do this, what sort of job is this going to be to do?
The things I'm concerned about are;
Do I need to strip the whole suspension, or can I replace the bushes in situ so to speak?
The main lower wishbone bush looks like it's going to be a complete asshole as it has a steel outer. Are these as bad to change as I'm guessing? If so any tips?
Are there any bolts in particular that I should be careful of so as not to upset the geometry? I can see that the castor is adjusted by the shims on the top ball joint, but i cant work out where camber is set.
And lastly, the rubber boot on the top ball joint doesn't look all that great. I don't think I can get any movement in it however, do these go, should i be looking to replace it?
Many Thanks for any help.
Col
The car's a 2000 v8, BTW
It's time for job number 17.
There's a bit of clonking/movement coming from the front left hand wheel of my Esprit when changing between acceleration and braking. I've also noticed that she's started to slide at the front more when pushed hard round a roundabout.
I'm reasonably sure it's bush related, there's some movement in the front most bush on the lower wishbone and I think that this is causing the front wheel to toe in and out a bit.
I've received a complete polyurethane set from Marucs this morning.
Before I dive straight in and do this, what sort of job is this going to be to do?
The things I'm concerned about are;
Do I need to strip the whole suspension, or can I replace the bushes in situ so to speak?
The main lower wishbone bush looks like it's going to be a complete asshole as it has a steel outer. Are these as bad to change as I'm guessing? If so any tips?
Are there any bolts in particular that I should be careful of so as not to upset the geometry? I can see that the castor is adjusted by the shims on the top ball joint, but i cant work out where camber is set.
And lastly, the rubber boot on the top ball joint doesn't look all that great. I don't think I can get any movement in it however, do these go, should i be looking to replace it?
Many Thanks for any help.
Col
The car's a 2000 v8, BTW
I've not changed any bushes on my Esprit so can't comment on that part ..
I have just changed an upper ball joint and my car has just 12k miles on it so they do go! If the rubber is split, it will fail sooner rather than later. The rubber on mine was ok but the ball joint was still shot.
The camber is set by small plates in the top wishbone - not the ones that space the balljoint front to back with respect to the car (castor), but the ones that select which position at which the rear bolt in the upper ball joint slots through the upper wishbone. These plates may be rusted in place but when you remove the upper ball joint you'll see that both securing bolts run in slots, the position controlled by plates on the inner (longer) bolt. The camber plates can be ordered with different offsets - but with bushes replaced you may find it drops back nicely to factory spec!
If you are ordering a ball joint, I suggest you order new nuts and bolts too. On torquing mine up, the rear bolt never reached 26-29lbs spec before the bolt seemed to stretch and the nut slipped on the thread.
I have just changed an upper ball joint and my car has just 12k miles on it so they do go! If the rubber is split, it will fail sooner rather than later. The rubber on mine was ok but the ball joint was still shot.
The camber is set by small plates in the top wishbone - not the ones that space the balljoint front to back with respect to the car (castor), but the ones that select which position at which the rear bolt in the upper ball joint slots through the upper wishbone. These plates may be rusted in place but when you remove the upper ball joint you'll see that both securing bolts run in slots, the position controlled by plates on the inner (longer) bolt. The camber plates can be ordered with different offsets - but with bushes replaced you may find it drops back nicely to factory spec!
If you are ordering a ball joint, I suggest you order new nuts and bolts too. On torquing mine up, the rear bolt never reached 26-29lbs spec before the bolt seemed to stretch and the nut slipped on the thread.
Just had all my bushings changed on the V8. Can't comment on how hard the job was to do but it only took my mechanic about 24 hours (less time than it took for the parts to arrive).
All I can say is - I wish I had done it sooner. It's like driving a brand new car. The handling and feel are spot on. Very confidence inspiring.
ErnestM
All I can say is - I wish I had done it sooner. It's like driving a brand new car. The handling and feel are spot on. Very confidence inspiring.
ErnestM
ErnestM said:
Just had all my bushings changed on the V8. Can't comment on how hard the job was to do but it only took my mechanic about 24 hours (less time than it took for the parts to arrive).
All I can say is - I wish I had done it sooner. It's like driving a brand new car. The handling and feel are spot on. Very confidence inspiring.
ErnestM
Did you go with upgrades (polybushings) or just new OEM bushings?
In general, the front bushes should last a very long time without problems. Mine have 52K miles and are fine. The rear suffers from a design issue where the outer bush on the lower lateral link will tear on one side (rear) and eventually generate some noise. Mine have been replaced twice already and have been in need of a new set for quite some time... they just don't last long. Also, every V8 I've worked on has the exact same characteristics.
As for movement, check the front mounting of the rear arms at the front end where the shims are for toe adjustment. They can, will and have come loose on other cars, mine for one. The result is much noise, accelerated rear tire wear and odd handling.
Overall, chassis and suspension on the V8 car is fine.
Regards, KM
2000 V8
As for movement, check the front mounting of the rear arms at the front end where the shims are for toe adjustment. They can, will and have come loose on other cars, mine for one. The result is much noise, accelerated rear tire wear and odd handling.
Overall, chassis and suspension on the V8 car is fine.
Regards, KM
2000 V8
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