Heater Matrix Cold withy hot "in" pipe
Discussion
Just spent half an hour typing in loads of discoveries I've made regarding the heater system and lost the "£$%^&* lot ! If anyone wants to know anything about the heater, please ask ! I don't want to type that lot again. The short version is that the heater system (all post 89 Esprits) has lots of quirky features and is not covered by any manual, workshoop or CD Rom. The heater workshop supplement has to be purchased separately as a supplement and is quite a recent addition to the manual. I've bought one so please ask away.
My car has a hot pie entering the matrix and a cold one leaving it. I plan to flush the matrix when the weather gets a bit warmer and if this fails, have a new one fitted. (fascia out, £500 at main dealer) The only possible alternative to a physical blockage is the matrix thermostat but this would attenuate the heater valve and give a cold "in" pipe so I don't think it's that. The pre 98 big instrument binnacle cars use a mechanical cable system (my car is a 97 V8) whilst 98 MY on use an electical system. One other point, I have been strongly advised against using a commercially available flush as residue of this may damage the engine.
The mechanical heater valve for pre 98 cars is now NLA but I've found a man who can rebuild them reasonably and quickly.
Let me know if I can help and also let me know if you have any cold heater matrix advice. I actually plan to connect a hose to the lower matrix input and another to the hose before it rejoins the radiator return and flush back and forth with warm water.
My car has a hot pie entering the matrix and a cold one leaving it. I plan to flush the matrix when the weather gets a bit warmer and if this fails, have a new one fitted. (fascia out, £500 at main dealer) The only possible alternative to a physical blockage is the matrix thermostat but this would attenuate the heater valve and give a cold "in" pipe so I don't think it's that. The pre 98 big instrument binnacle cars use a mechanical cable system (my car is a 97 V8) whilst 98 MY on use an electical system. One other point, I have been strongly advised against using a commercially available flush as residue of this may damage the engine.
The mechanical heater valve for pre 98 cars is now NLA but I've found a man who can rebuild them reasonably and quickly.
Let me know if I can help and also let me know if you have any cold heater matrix advice. I actually plan to connect a hose to the lower matrix input and another to the hose before it rejoins the radiator return and flush back and forth with warm water.
i would love to know where the heater valve is located.. i have asked in the past here and there has never been a decent reply..
My valve is stiff to operate and I go through endless pain of cables slipping, plastic cracking etc... would be so nice to see that beast that is stiff and shoot her with lube...
how did you get your hands on the heater manual? id like a copy.
Bruce S4s
My valve is stiff to operate and I go through endless pain of cables slipping, plastic cracking etc... would be so nice to see that beast that is stiff and shoot her with lube...
how did you get your hands on the heater manual? id like a copy.
Bruce S4s
Right ! Firstly, the heater manual is part of an "upgrade of the existing Esprit Workshop manual. First, ring the factory on 01953 608247 or 608920 and ask for the part number for the Esprit Workshop Manual Heater supplement (SECTION PJ). Second, ring your nearest Lotus dealer and order one. I paid about ten quid for mine plus postage. The manual shows mainly diagrams for left hand drive cars so a bit of spatial re-orientation is required.
The heater valve (I presume that you mean the valve that does the hot/cold thing rather than the diverter valve which is used to cool the stopped engine on hot days) is bolted to the top of the foot pedal box by a single stud. In pre 98 MY cars, this valve is mechanically operated by a sheathed cable from the centre consol temperature knob. In post 98 cars, the valve is in the same place but is electronically operated. To access the console end simply take out the stereo. To access the other end, open the front luggage compartment and remove the cover of the small square fusebox ( contains about thirty fuses including the one for the horn). Next, carefully unscrew and remove the two screws securing the fusebox. The two threaded sockets that these screws engage stay put so don't worry that they will fall out of sight, forever lost with a demoralizing tinkle ! Finally, push the fusebox gently into the space above the footpedals and slide it towards the nearside of the car. You can now crouch down and just about visualise the valve sitting horizontally in place. From this point of view, the cable travels towards you when the heater knob is turned ( this is a two person job) You should be able to lube it quite easily but bear in mind that any excess oil will drip on your blue suede shoes as you drive !
If your valve is really dodgy, the bad news is that they are no longer available but the good news is that you can get you r valve rebuilt for a reasonable cost by Fibreglass Services (01243 554422)
One final point to remember, and I didn't know this until I got the manual, is that the heater is actually thermostatic with a sensor located in the heater outlet (the manual is unclear where this is) which moderates the heater valve once the car is warm. This may also be the cause of your sticky valve.
>> Edited by toyroom on Monday 11th April 20:15
The heater valve (I presume that you mean the valve that does the hot/cold thing rather than the diverter valve which is used to cool the stopped engine on hot days) is bolted to the top of the foot pedal box by a single stud. In pre 98 MY cars, this valve is mechanically operated by a sheathed cable from the centre consol temperature knob. In post 98 cars, the valve is in the same place but is electronically operated. To access the console end simply take out the stereo. To access the other end, open the front luggage compartment and remove the cover of the small square fusebox ( contains about thirty fuses including the one for the horn). Next, carefully unscrew and remove the two screws securing the fusebox. The two threaded sockets that these screws engage stay put so don't worry that they will fall out of sight, forever lost with a demoralizing tinkle ! Finally, push the fusebox gently into the space above the footpedals and slide it towards the nearside of the car. You can now crouch down and just about visualise the valve sitting horizontally in place. From this point of view, the cable travels towards you when the heater knob is turned ( this is a two person job) You should be able to lube it quite easily but bear in mind that any excess oil will drip on your blue suede shoes as you drive !
If your valve is really dodgy, the bad news is that they are no longer available but the good news is that you can get you r valve rebuilt for a reasonable cost by Fibreglass Services (01243 554422)
One final point to remember, and I didn't know this until I got the manual, is that the heater is actually thermostatic with a sensor located in the heater outlet (the manual is unclear where this is) which moderates the heater valve once the car is warm. This may also be the cause of your sticky valve.
>> Edited by toyroom on Monday 11th April 20:15
Wow and to think I was going to hunt in the underbody caverns next.. this will be an exciting thing if I free it up.. seems I am forever stuck with the heat on during a heat wave and fully closed when it gets chilly... actual adjustable heat in that greenhouse cockpit will add to the enjoyment...
thank you so much.. will post with success or failure after the weekend..
Bruce
thank you so much.. will post with success or failure after the weekend..
Bruce
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